We are proud to be appointed as Authorised Advertising Agency for Hong Kong Green Building Council (HKGBC) Magazine. I have sourced the above mentioned boat and have mainly dismantled and determined in some sense what will be needed structurally to restore this boat. Location: Eustis, FL Without pulling out any books, Penn Yan continuously changed building processes, throughout their life span.
2 - I would strongly recommend you redo the transom, rather then patch it as you've described. 3 - The cracks you're seeing are common on this type of build method and it's caused by changes in moisture content. Most of the time, thee will be several repairs and other sins bestowed on the old gal during her life.
Location: Maine Pictures Attached I've attached a photo of my transom repair. The pictures with the plywood repairs to the hull were pulled of toward the starboard, forward end. I see foam in a can under that piece of plywood, which will have trapped moisture against the planking (read rot).
In short, you need to pull the garboards, the turn of the bilge plank(s) and the sheer strakes. Of course this assumes you can wedge, brace and cuss the hull back into reasonable shape, so that templates of frame locations are accurate and not depicting broken frame distortions. I've seen very few novices able to perform these tasks, but this isn't to say it can't be done.


For what it's worth a guy that's got some lap experience can sort out your boat's ills in a month or two. Being in Maine throught the network, I know of people I can talk to interms of finding someone with lapstrake experience, that may be hard up for work. Location: Eustis, FL It's not hard work and you can probably do it, but you will need guidance.
Location: Maine Status Update We hired a local unemployed boat builder to work on the project three days a week.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Let it be know that I have some experience in almost all non-mechanical boat maintenance though I certainly consider myself an amateur. I also may have identified part of the serial number from the transom and want to try and confirm it. The torque and strain a transom must tolerate will test your joints, every time you throttle up and it would have me sweating each time. You can sister them, but this usually just results in breaking up more of the old ribs as you attempt to drive screws into them. Someone had put oak ribs in between each existing rib, put all kinds of rubber like substance then bridge the entire area with a peace of plywood. I hate the idea but maybe figerglass the bottom of the boat, or laminate another piece of plywood over the bottom?
You might have had a chance if you'd scrafed in the repair pieces, but those butt joints will just not do, regardless of adhesive employed.


I'm assuming thousands even if I do everything I can to prepare and put thing back and coatings and all.
While this has become more of an undertaking than I originally expected, I suspect trying to source another similiar boat will only reveal similiar issues of size and scope. I have cut back one layer of plywood around the entire butchered area by about 4? enable to overlay the joints.
What are the best bonding mechanisms and other resources for learning how to render such a repair?
Though with a lapped boat, there's plenty of angles to pick up, but much of this could be handled with epoxy if desired. Using West System, I plan on laminating the two layers of the same material with the 4? overlap. Forcing it to stay on the boat longer then it should just causes leaks, broken frames, etc. After removing the patch, this section of plywood has rotted all the way throught to the epoxy. Now, I'm the old fart and I do have a few paying attention to some of my projects, but I'm not going to Maine, so forget it.



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