Great for indoor or outdoor use and made to stick to rough, uneven, unforgiving surfaces like wood, stone, stucco, plaster, brick and more. Camouflages repairs on white surfaces, and won't yellow outdoors due to its superior UV resistance. Ideal for applications in the field including duck blinds, tree stands, tent repairs, and more. Gorilla Mounting Tape is tough and clear and mounts in an instant, for a long-lasting, weatherproof bond. A tough, clear tape that holds with just one strip, and is perfect for shipping, moving, and storage. Not very likely fix, and most boat soup recipes go black after a bit as they don't have any UV inhibitors in them, but what looks good is a matter of debate, I guess. And if you have polysulfide in the seams, boat soup will leave you with a gooey, sticky mess as the linseed oil and turps will disolve the polysufide. Mine by the way was just a tiny drop, after sustained heavy rain, or when sailing with plenty of spray on deck for longish periods. I my plan is to replace the 15mm plywood and add two layers of 10mm plywood using Epoxy and Epoxy and glass the deck for sealing and add an anti-skid paint cover. For one craftsman and a skilled helper please estimate how long should we need and about how much cost for doing it right? Well, depending on the amount and complexity of deck hardware you have, you need to document the position of each bit and then remove all that. If you're going to sheathe your hull, well, you'd need to get a copy of the Gougeon Bros' book or a copy of Vaitses' book, and decide whether you want a structural form of sheathing (Vaitses) or a skin. Its an ongoing game of keeping up until I remove the whole deck and replace it with ply and dynel.
Wooden Boat Plans for Amateur Boatbuilders – Excellent Performance, Simple Construction, Step by Step Instructions Australia, USA, UK, Hungary, S. The photo below shows two a group of us built in France immediately before paddling and camping our way down the Loire River for a week. It includes the standard paddling canoe and also the Quick Canoe Electric which is designed to take an electric trolling motor. Rick Landreville is a Canadian.  He built an OZ PDRacer in ten days last year (an unusually fast building time) and used that boat to become the Canadian PDRacer Champion. When he heard I was designing a very simple canoe he contacted me to say he was really interested in building the prototype.  I agreed of course.
I cut the third plywood sheet in half, then stacked the four sheets together and cut out all the sides at once. I have been sick with a sinus infection and a fever for the last 3 days, and have been flat on my back in bed.
The reason it works is that the plywood side panels are spaced the right distance apart before the bottom is put on.  Here you can see the spacers that were in place.
A couple of days later there was a break in the Canadian Winter and Rick and his girls tried it out on the local pond. Rick got it out on some open water a couple of week later.  He thought it tracked nicely for a travelling canoe.  Still looks very cold to me!
The boat came out pretty lightweight at about 48lbs built of standard building trade materials.
The stability (not to mention floor space) will make it very suitable as a fishing canoe as well. Plans are available from Duckworks for $30 from my agents.  Duckworks has a good information piece up here plus the ordering info. Clinton and PJ Build their Quick Canoe in a week and take to the Tinaroo Wooden Boat Event. Michael, How do I get your plans for the quick build 155 in the UK – Seawing Boats haven’t heard of it yet! Usually when people build trial boats they are too close to the final boat that they eventually plan to build. However the Quick Canoe is so economical in terms of materials and labour that it does make a lot of sense as a first build. Have you thought about using a lazer light material one of the polycarbonate roofing products.
I am sincerely admiring your capability to respond in a short time with such constructive advice.


We work really hard to try and get back to people as quickly as possible, whether it is a simple enquiry or some sort of building or technical problem. Are the printed plans that can be ordered just the same as getting the plans emailed and printing them out myself? If we need to go for the cheaper construction and not use marine ply, what is the best choice of ply in the budjet range? Exterior ply 6mm might be a go if you find one with good faces and inspect the edges to see how many voids there are in the interior veneers. Look on the right side of this webpage – there is a list of agents for several regions. If you don’t want to pay online please email or write to any of the agents for a price on the plan book.
If you are a Facebook User you can login without registering using the "Facebook Connect" button at the very top of this page. Howdy, I just found this forum, been a member of several similar forums for quite some time! I figured this was as good a place as any for a first post, since making things from scratch is my favorite thing to do! I wanted a small boat I could transport in the bed of my pickup and carry to the water, for the times I can take out the 14' bass boat!
I didnt take nearly enough picture through the constuction so a little imagination is required! I sealed the hull with some free blackjack waterproof roofing sealer, silicon on the inside! You have the same problem in any vessel when paddling from the very rear, the torque is always going to want to spin the boat. With two people the boat will sit more level in the water, and you can balance you paddling. Thank you I will look for the book my son insists he saw me looking at a similar boat project. The chainplates are mounted to the frames inside the double planking, indeed, I would imagine they were installed before the planking.
With Hurricane Dan bearing down on me, I decided to close the holes with plumber putty until this week when I will test to see if the caulking stopped the leak and what would be a suitable seam compound. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Repair, fix, patch, seal, hold, and protect almost any surface with crystal clear appearance.
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. I hate deck leaks more than almost anything else, but then I haven't had to replace a horn timber or a stem.
There was a very small soft spot in the deckhead, although the paint was still in perfectly good condition. As Phil is doing, there's no problem with fixing the worst parts first and then going through the whole repair in stages.
Lay it on, mark it all from below, paint the underneath of each clear section, then fasten it.
I've found more small leaks around some of the thru deck shroud plates which i have fixed for the time being by cutting out the timber leaving a gap all round the plate of around 1cm and filled that with black gooey stuff from a tube (Fixtech), and one at the aft sampson post which has caused quite a bit of rot in the ply under the aft deck (haven't fixed that yet because its a bit messy-just cut out the rotten stuff under the teak for now).
I spent 45 minutes laying it out, then had to go inside for Christmas festivities, then spent 20 minutes cutting out the parts, then had to go in again, then spent 20 minutes belt sanding all the parts and gluing in the butt straps on. Orginally I intended to buy the Goat island Skiff, but I thought I would cut my teeth on the 155 first. In Australia Melbourne, in the 1920 people would make canoes out of galvanized roofing iron for a quick fish on a flat day on port Phillip bay. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features.
Painted it with some "oops" exterior paint from home depot, the paint was $5 for a gallon! It will probably have been glued and screwed and even if the plywood was sheathed, the screws will have opened up a multitude of leaking points through the sheathing and into the plywood where the moisture just sits steaming away under the warm decking. Then you have to decide whether you"re going to try to save all that teak by extracting every screw.


Work out where you'll run the seams of your glass sheathing, and make trenches in the ply about 3mm deep to accommodate the overlap. Either way it's a big job as you have to decide how to treat the ballast - take it off and glass the hull without it, or, as Vaitses recommends, wrap the whole thing in glass (I don't like that idea).
Also found a soft spot on the foredeck, maybe a foot square, which I cut out and replaced a couple of weeks ago.
I have a total of 4 hours and 25 minutes of build time, and anticipate another 4-5 hours to sand, prep and paint it. I have often thought of making one out of clear roofing sheets so I could see what was underneath.
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The "tab" sticking up out of the transom is for mounting a Transom Mount 30lbs thrust Trolling Motor!
I could get around pretty good paddling from the middle seat, Not as effective from the rear seat which was expected, the torque applied from paddling in the rear tends to turn the boat rather than drive it forward. I've tried removing this from two boats and wouldn't bother again if it's glued and screwed. If that involves removing a thousand or more bungs then, unless they drill out easily and leave a clear screw head, then I'd say forget it, you'll have to remove the whole lot, teak and ply, together. And then I found a small leak where some idiot (previous owner) had obviously removed 3 thru deck bolts and just squeezed in a bit of clear silicone. If the ply forms the ceiling then you can locate the boundaries of each clear section of the deck from underneath. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please post in the first "Registration Help" subforum.
Humingbird 788 fish finder with built in gps, 50lbs thrust minkota power drive bow mounted trolling motor, with foot controls. Then drill a hole in the corners of each section to mark the boundaries, then cut out each section with a jigsaw from above. Then there's quite a few days involved in painting on a high-build coat to fill the weave of the glass and get it all smooth for your finish coats. But professionals doing this can give you a much better estimate of the time involved than a rank amateur like me. My boat built in 1974, strip planked was glass sheathed from new, and the hull is in fine condition.
The teak strips must be either only glued to the sheathing or screwed into epoxy plugs which must be created for every screw. The time this takes depends on your internal arrangement - if you can easily access the deck from below and drill holes for each corner easily, then cutting out the sections is easy - less than a day. I think my estimate of the deck replacement is fairly right but I could be way out on the hull sheathing, as I've planned it but never actually done it. Gluing following the Gougeon Bros system or just gluing the strips to the sheathing using weights for clamping are really your only two options.
The next step is to remove all the remaining bits of deck fastened to deck beams, coaming, cabinsides etc.
When I moved to New Mexico after many fishing trips and no leaks, I gave the boat to my neighbor.
If the strips on your boat now are only fastened, not glued, then that would be much better. Get them all off, repair all damage to the plywood, sheath it with glass or dynel, and then glue the strips or new strips back on. You're going to want to sheathe right over your bulwarks or remove them and sheath under them. If the screws and glue have left a lot of damage then it can take many days to fill all the holes with wooden wedges or epoxy glue.



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