Marine grade epoxy, fiberglass, plywood, paint: all your boat building and repair supplies in one place with free technical support.
We are distributors of System Three® and MarinEpoxy® resins, dealers for WEST System® resins, Divinycell® core foams, all fiberglass types, EMC2 paints® and marine plywood. We sell all that boat builders need to build a composite boat hull, at the best prices and with the best technical support. Making water tight and testing I have an 11' wooden Gull sailing Dinghy, which I've owned for nearly 6 years. How do I join plywood for a small yacht cabin top? How do I join plywood for a small yacht cabin top? The following photos detail some recent repairs made by the owner and crew of Jester, a 2005 C&C 99.
The cabin sole does not rest on typical floors, rather, it sits in a molded plate with drain holes that proved insufficient for complete draining into the bilge which caused the problem seen in this photo.
Note the halyards in the lower left corner. These can wick water down their length sometimes as well.
Sections of water damaged bulkheads were removed and new bulkhead material, supplied by C&C, was scarfed in. Jester is now ready to head to Port Huron and beyond for our annual July racing extravaganza-and we’ll be doin’ it in style. Blue Water Marine Services are experts in both wood and fibreglass boat repairs. Our staff are qualified to work with all boat materials and marine spray paints. After an accident (minor or major) you’ll want to get your boat repaired and back to ship shape condition. Our boat builders resealed the windows and applied a different colour stripe – resulting in a new look and fully waterproofed vessel! When a Jet Ski was in need of repair (and a new paint job), then Blue Water Marine Services was there to save the day. The plan was to cut open the floor, remove the top layer of fiberglass, dig out the bad plywood, put in a new sheet of meranti and close it up adding a layer of glass over the floor. I used a discount grinder I picked up for 39,99 in New Canadian Lumber and the little thing refuses to die. Measure twice still cut wrong!Little grinder cuts easily through the quarter inch or so of floor. I then spent 3 fabulous fun filled days stuck under the floor repairing the floor I had cut. I deliberately left a small section at the front opening to the cabin so I would have somewhere to step.
Hole!! Good thing I had repaired my (wrong) cut line and there was some carbon fibre patch just beside the hole. When I took off the plywood where the original holes had been drilled the fiberglass was so deteriorated that it just crumbled. I had left a small section just under the opening to the cabin to make it easier to get in and out. Crawl once more under the floor and put a layer of cloth across the bad section, it will extend from side to side and overlap slightly the repair that I made which is very solid.
Prepare a piece of plywood covered with wax paper or plastic and use this to brace the floor while the patch in 1 sets. If everything is solid and looks like I can continue working, I will put some thickened putty in the overhang using a combination of microfibres and silica and possibly wood flour if I'm confident that the carbon fibre layer is good. I will cut the plywood to size, in particular I will cut out where the bolts will attach to the floor plate for the main sheet. Working with slow set hardener I will make up a batch of thickened epoxy and use this to cement the sheet of plywood into the floor cavity. I'll put some thickened epoxy in the oversized bolt holes that will later be drilled and hopefully be waterproof. Then, it's back under the floor to attach the plate with a backing, I will reuse my original High Density Polyethylene boards and Pl 4200.

This web site reflects my personal ideas and doesn't represent anyone else's point of view.
People who are restoring old boats often face the problem of rotten wood inside their boat’s core. The first thing to do, before you start to remove parts from your boat, you should take some pictures of how everything looked in the start, so you will have some guidelines for later on. Be sure to support your boat’s hull well, becouse when you remove structural parts from the hull it becomes flexible and it can twist.
I started with cutting away the outboard motor well and removed all the fiberglass that covered the transom. Next I cut out the inner fiberglass skin that covered the transom in order to get to the plywood core.
After you remove every bit of the old transom, take a good sander and sand the outer fiberglass skin to perfection.
Once the old plywood is removed, make a template of the transom using cardboard or cheap plywood or construction foam.
After you laminated your new transom you will laminate your  new inside transom fiberglass skin. The lamination schedule for each boat will vary, but in general, you will be looking to build up to the original thickness.
Your new transom is now complete and the only thing you need to do now is to tie it to your boat’s stringers and at the end coat everything with gelcoat to make it really waterproof. Order processing works but if you do not find an item, please call 772-770-1225 during business hours. Jester is well equipped and has been meticulously maintained by her skipper and only owner, Greg Horvath.
Greg reports that from his first contact with a C&C rep throughout the entire repair process he was treated with respect and that he felt they were genuinely concerned about taking care of the problem.
Some manufacturers won’t even tell you the color of the gelcoat they use but with C&C they were completely forthcoming with any information we needed.
Complete rot -though in the aft cabin. Water dripped through the closed hatch during rainstorms. New material was stained with ML Campbell two-part stain used by C&C to match the original stain colors. I sanded around the cut, put a first layer of resin, then applied 2 layers and in several places 3-4 thicknesses of carbon fiber Kevlar and regular glass. I used a seringe to put in epoxy first then brushed it in to make sure the groove was coated then used the seringe again to put in the thickened epoxy. I now made a few exploratory holes with my drill to figure out where the wood ended and if it was wet. The white dusty section has the fiberglass sawdust, the wet looking part is what I just uncovered. I need to reinforce the edges otherwise the plywood will not be solid and reinforce at least the centre of the floor where the sheet attaches, where the material is damaged. I'm confident, from my experience building my Skerry, that the thickened epoxy is very strong. One of the most frequent repairs on older boats is replacing or at least repairing a plywood cored transom.
In my boat, the whole top back end of the boat had to be removed, but this may be different in other boats. I used all sorts of tools to do that, but an old crowbar,a hammer and a chisel did the best job for me. If you make it thinner with sanding, you should add a layer of glass and resin over it and sand it again. Use heavy biaxial cloth to tie the stringers to the transom and repeat the lamination several times.
They provided, at no cost, enough parts and wood to complete three times the work Jester needed. Below is a just a small sample of the repairs that we have completed for vessels (both small and large).

I cut the area where I was going to have my new fiberglass sheet, not 2 inches inward where the wood was.
Just when I get experienced with something is when I figure out I will never need to do this again. Originally it was 38mm thick  and I made two new identical pieces that were 22mm each and were made out of waterproof marine graded plywood.
When you place your first piece in the boat be sure to laminate it with one layer of glass mate and use a lot of epoxy on it.
Laminate the motor well back in place, mount all parts back where they were, mount your engine and you are ready to go. She is also the boat I’ve raced aboard here in Saginaw Bay as well as around the Great Lakes including the Port Huron to Mackinaw Race and the Ugotta Regatta in Harbor Springs. There are some very thin spots and a couple of holes around the edge particularly on the port side.
I will have to make sure the existing remains of wood are absolutely dry and saturated with resin. I cut the the inner skin in one piece and used it later on as a template for the new plywood transom core. Work slowly and precisely and be sure to remove any trapped air from your lamination layers, becouse they can start holding water in next couple of years and you will then have to do all over again. Below are some pictures of how my boat turned out, although this is not the only repair I had done. I added a couple of layers of resin on top to make sure the cloth was properly filled.It was cold, snowing, raining, gale force wind and claustrophobic under there. The carbon fibre is too thick to curl up much but I can add some regular glass cloth strip if I feel I need it. If your transom is not completly rotten, you should remove it carefully, becouse it will save you a lot of time if you can use it as a template for the new one. If the strips had been separated by resin then water penetration would have been reduced, I'm thinking. Makes it harder to dig stuff out but I'm lucky because the wood is more rotten on that side. It bulges down just behind the bulkhead, (which is solid)There are still some small pieces of wood sticking (strongly) to the underside of the overhang.
I eventually got a dollar store mirror and LED lights and at least could inspect with the mirror. Epoxy can stick to scuffed up gelcoat and to polyester fiberglass but not the other way round.
I tried sitting on the board on the floor and working this way but it is murder on my back.
I still have about 3 linear feet of overhang to clean up and bits and pieces still stuck on.
The starboard side was particularly difficult to strip and the wood was not as rotten as other places.
Epoxy is gap filling and extremely strong, you want the epoxy to remain between the plywood layers. My concern NOW is to put it back together so it can easily support people and the strain of the sheet.
Once the epoxy begins to squeeze out the sides evenly it is time to stop the clamping pressure. I estimate It will take about 10 to 15 more hours to strip the rest of the floor, if it is in the same condition as the section I have already done. The white behind the hole is a piece of high density polyethylene that I used to back up the attachment I put on.

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