Location: Australia Plywood Kits without stich and glue I am redesigning a plywood kit I created some time ago. Location: Eustis, FL Chris, you're attempting what many of us have been exploring for some time.
The notch and tab technique does require a slight bit more room in the nesting arrangements in the cut file, but does work.
As to which is more effective, particularly in light of the others also available, well this is probably pretty subjective, though the zipper seam does let you do both sides of the seam unobstructed.
Maybe best not to be stuck on a single system and do what is most suitable for a given boat and part of that boat. This is an experimental project that I under took to help me work out the bugs in the process before moving on to a slightly larger and more complex version. Location: Lakeland Fl USA OK I assume that we are talking wooden boats here. Yes we will use a fillet and glass ribbons on the inside when you remove the boat from the forms and turn it upright, with only ribbons on the outside. In all this you have not had to lay out some hopefully correct shape on scarphed panels, drilled a zillion holes, pulled a zillion wires, or eyeballed the wire joined panels into hopefully correct shape. You get a very good grasp of this method in Tom Hills nice little book; Ultralight Boatbuilding. The alternative to the pain of lofting or laying out a series of S&G panels, if you are determined to use a micky mouse stitch and glue method, is to bite the bullet and buy kits from Chesapeake LightCraft, Guilemott, or other precut panel sellers. Location: spain I still cant visualize a technique to hold the panels stationary and to shape without some kinda stitch. Location: Tasmania,Australia The use of tabs to accurately position frames, bulkheads etc is very commendable. Trying to remove the use use of wire ties etc, just for the sake of it, is not a valid reason in my eyes.

Originally Posted by michael pierzga I still cant visualize a technique to hold the panels stationary and to shape without some kinda stitch.
Location: Coastal Georgia I wonder if these might work, they're called hog rings and hog pliers. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Cognizant of the fact sailboats cause a lot of damage to the ecosystem, designer Max Koriath conceived the 3D Plywood Boat. Sailboats can pollute the open waters with their small engines with no emission control, their generally bad combustion techniques, the significant spillage and evaporative losses that are part of the way many small boats function, not to mention the amount of fiberglass and non-sustainable materials involved in building sailboats.
I use a simple short block of wood, arranged along an edge, which the next panel rests against, before the seam is filleted and tabbed. The panels were simply hot glued together along the seams on the outside leaving me free to apply a continous fillet and tape join on the inside surface. They are a very useful technique in the right situations, as others have explained very well. But did you realize that sailboats can be one of the worst offenders of the green movement?
I don't know what kind of engine this boat would be fitted with, but I can say that it is a very good looking specimen.
I don't use stitches very much in this type of build, though sometimes they are handy to pull something together. I find this easy to place the usually 2x2 blocks (temporary attached hot glue or drywall screwed) and I can do most of the seam. The main difference between our construction tecniques is that I used fiberglass flat sheets instead of plywood for my panels. It is only necessary to use closely spaced holes and lots of ties or wires when pulling together tough bends and when warping or torturing the ply into difficult shapes.

Your notch and tab approach looks like several other accessions to this set of issues, which work best in CNC format, naturally.
Your technique, means the whole inside seam can be done in one shot (unlike my system), which is good. A set of temporary plywood frames were installed in the interior to hold the panels in alignment until the transom and bow pieces were in place. With the amount of fiberglass, epoxy chemicals, high end woods and pretty much a ton of non-sustainable materials it takes to make one of these floating works of art, the only real way to recycle a boat is by sinking it and making it an artificial reef. My block system permits the whole outside of the seam to be done at once, while yours requires some trimming first.
Once all the hull panels were fitted and bonded together full length lay-ups were made along the sides and bottom to tie it all together.
A stitch or tie every couple of feet and some duct tape to keep things aligned and away you go. By using a patented new process that applies a beech wood veneer to readily available plywood parts, this design gives you all the luxury and durability of more costly woods without putting a strain on world supplies. Lofting panels is just as easy and going through setting up build frames, and cutting and fitting all the rest of the pieces of wood that have been mentioned in order to get the shapes. A combination square, a 4' metal rule and a decent batten and you can lay out a panel in 15-20 minutes from offset #. The use of a inverse bow may look sexy but makes for a very very wet ride as well as being a boat killer if you hit any sort of trash in the water (log).

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