You will find in this chapter details the various steps with pictures (not very good quality, no doubt) but in my opinion quite explanatory. This small fishing boat is our first attempt at shipbuilding : as we will have to deal with some problems due to lack of experience.
How to draw the boat plans on marine plywood panels ?This is the start : we'll draw the points obtained through the free software Delfship on marine plywood panel. We will then simply lay the two sheets of plywood on each other to cut with a jigsaw both sides at once. This operation is fast and rewarding because when it is completed our boat, suddenly takes form. Two brackets for the front axle, two for the central trunk and three for the rear axle.Read more about Plywood Woodenboat building >>Cutting and fitting gunwale of the boat in exotic wood - IrokoThe strakes are edging in an old sheet of iroko can a twisted. Because our iroko plank is a little short, it is necessary to make an assembly of two parts.
Read more about Plywood Woodenboat building >>Construction of the plywood daggerboardWe want to equip our boat with a sail. It used to tow the boat if necessary and hang it on the dead body with a stainless steel hook. Substituting the points obtained using the software Delfship on the plates against marine plywood. It will be necessary to join two sheets of marine plywood to achieve against the edges of a length of 6 m.
With the software DelfShip we get a page which outlines the different parts that make up our ship. Although some shores are sometimes difficult to read because the numbers are superimposed on our plan, we have enough points to trade to see the coordinates on the plates against plywood.


For large edge length (over 3.10m in) it is necessary to assemble the marine plywood panels together. It seemed, however, it was easier to trace and cut the edges without assembling the plates, because the space available and the size of our room was a little small. When the coordinates are shown on two sheets of plywood laid against end to end, it only remains to draw a line that reaches well smoothed all points. Now, it's time to flip the boat over, remove the Duck tape, and have a look at the external seams.
I cut the tissue to shape with scissors, pre-coated the hull bottom with epoxy, then applied and "wetted through" the tissue. A rubrail adds strength (and, unfortunately, weight) to the plywood shell of the boat, which is fairly flimsy on its own.
The "breasthooks" (no, I don't know why they're called that, they look nothing like breasts or hooks!) also make the hull a bit stiffer, and provide a useful handhold.
The breasthooks need to be strong, so I reinforced them with another layer of plywood underneath.
While making these seams, I needed to see under the breasthooks, which can be pretty dark, as the garage is lit from above.
Having installed the seat support and breasthooks (and added a block to each breasthook to allow a cleat to be attached), I gave the whole boat two coats of good-quality varnish. I fitted stainless steel cleats (bought online) to the blocks I'd glued to the breasthooks. I've also made a trolley (useful as I don't have a car, and the boat wouldn't fit easily on my motorbike).
But I agree I like that concept of having a boat bookshelf that actually can be rowed or motored in a pinch, that is two birds or even 3 in one stone.


Lorenzo wrote:A two or three-part nested 16ft pirogue that doubles as shelves makes the entire family happy. Too bad my kids are too big for a one sheet boat, plus they would demand for a matching pair! It will be necessary to join two sheets of marine plywood (3.10 m long) to get a total length of 6 m. The majority of reserves of buoyancy is placed in two coolers of a brave or we can keep the bait or fish on one side and the other cold beers. With proper angle is quite fast, but if you do not have such a tool, the easiest way is to put two plates against the marine plywood on each other and shift the top plate and s 'use it as a rule. The finish was a bit rough in places, had to sand it down (while wearing a dust mask, not wanting to inhale glass particles).
Using that dimension, your 1.75 plywood is just enough to make all the parts needed and still have extra for rib's gussets. Panels in front and rear axles of the boat and the two flaps of ice are cut from marine plywood 9mm. The seat support is just a piece of plywood, which is installed across the bottom of the hull at the widest point. Feels a bit tippy at first, but has good "secondary stability" (once heeled over a little, she becomes more stable).
All the usual canoeing strokes seem effective (sweeps, prys, draws, etc., as well as the J-stroke used for forward movement).



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