I could use a router with a flush cutting bit, but I would need a matching pair of perfectly-fitting guides. Idea 2: cut a wavy slot across a piece of scrap ply using a jigsaw, yielding 2 guides, one of which is slightly offset from the finished cut. I think the joint shape needs be more of a zigzag with the radius of the circular arcs - where the irection changes - kept to a minimum for maximum strength.
A zigzag consisting of straight lines only with sharp ends is stronger than a zigzag with rounded ends. A zigzag consisting of straight lines can probably be cut precisely using a flush trim saw to avoid damaging the guide. Originally Posted by ancient kayaker The parallel parts of the joint don't do much IMO, except if stressed in tension parallel with the face grain. Originally Posted by wardd even with the zigzag the tips and troughs can be radioused with no ill effect and still use a router My concern is, the radiused parts of the joint are effectively butted and are therefore weak spots.
If the zigs and zags were nice and large with the curves joined with long more-or-less straight lines, radiused roots and tips should not have too much of an effect. I think the flush trimming saw will be nice to use: it cuts at least as fast as a small router bit can, and the cut needs less cleaning up. Looking at router bits intended for finger jointing of solid wood, I see that the joint has long more-or-less straight sections joining tip and root radii of comparatively small diameter, so I think I am on the right track. Returning to method 1 in my first post, Freud make rabbeting bits with a set of guide bearings for different rabbet depths. Location: Eustis, FL My understanding of these types of joints (finger) is they should be in the thickness of the material, not the breadth for best loading results.
All of these joints I've described are in the thickness dimension of the material (the end grain) as is a regular scarf.
Location: Cancun Mexico For transmitting the stresses continuously for one panel to the other, no steps or changes of direction are allowed if you want to insure a resistance of the joint equal at least 95% of the panels resistance. A good scarfing table with a circular saw running on slides makes cutting scarfs more than easy for those who are not masters of the planer.
Scarfs are easy to machine (yes, there are easy with the right tooling), easy to glue and reliable. Reducing bottom frame angle add skeg » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Poked my finger through hull . When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I appreciate that the outside tapes will involve extra work but using 4mm ply on a canoe this size is pushing it and I will not be glass clothing. If you glue the planks in place, and then force a shape, its easy to sand past the top veneer and reveal the hidden plys. Originally Posted by ancient kayaker Don't worry too much about a little twist in the hull; even with the planks assembled it will be so floppy that it is easily straightened. Location: Eustis, FL On taped seam builds, the most important portion of the seam is the inside corner. Originally Posted by rwatson But dont you FG the chines well before you turn over and do the gunnels and and deck ? As of today the position is that the canoe is sitting on 3 frames cut, near as I can manage it, to the dimensions provided by the designer. Is there anything more I could have done to get the shape accurate with the boat the right way up?
I was originally going to just tack the chines before turning over for the internal fillets and tape. The problem of lack of fit near the ends was cured by tucking the tops of the middle plank inside the top planks then taping the top planks into position so a line could be drawn on the middle plank to trim down to. I released the middle plank, (easy to do with adhesive tape) used the surform to trim down to the line and took the opportunity to bevel the chines to let the epoxy in as they are almost butt joints. Location: Tasmania,Australia The whole concept of stitch and glue is to reduce the amount of internal framing required.

I have never come across a Kayak plan that provided female station dimensions (we are not talking dinghies, boats here. Please provide name of a single Kayak design or kit that has the female stations provided. You will find in this chapter details the various steps with pictures (not very good quality, no doubt) but in my opinion quite explanatory. This small fishing boat is our first attempt at shipbuilding : as we will have to deal with some problems due to lack of experience. How to draw the boat plans on marine plywood panels ?This is the start : we'll draw the points obtained through the free software Delfship on marine plywood panel.
We will then simply lay the two sheets of plywood on each other to cut with a jigsaw both sides at once. This operation is fast and rewarding because when it is completed our boat, suddenly takes form. Two brackets for the front axle, two for the central trunk and three for the rear axle.Read more about Plywood Woodenboat building >>Cutting and fitting gunwale of the boat in exotic wood - IrokoThe strakes are edging in an old sheet of iroko can a twisted.
Because our iroko plank is a little short, it is necessary to make an assembly of two parts. Read more about Plywood Woodenboat building >>Construction of the plywood daggerboardWe want to equip our boat with a sail. It used to tow the boat if necessary and hang it on the dead body with a stainless steel hook.
In general I find out it quite awe-inspiring how many designers designs one can find on the Internet. Such guides are probably available, but they are probably hard to get and expensive so I would like to make my own.
The puzzle joint shape consists of semi-circles joined by straight lines at right angles to the joint. I don't think these joints should need taping to be as strong as the ply, like the finger joints in paintable wood moldings. For bending forces only the glue at the end of each straight run is working; that is where I expect failure will start as they are only butt joints, so the length of the joint is key.
But for me, with the very small boats that I make, such large joints might spoil the appearance, unless it turned out to be virtually invisible, and there is also the question of waste material - like using unecessarily wide scarfs.
When I route ply (okoume and luan) it leaves a lot of fuzz o the edge and it is easy to burn the wood, whereas the saws cuts very smoothly and is as accurate as the surface guiding it. But what's the interest and advantage of using finger joints instead of scarfs if the panels are structural? If it's not possible to make it as strong and better looking than a scarf joint then I will probably not use it. The result was pretty and tough, though I didn't like the natural stress risers it offered. While building 40 feet pro fishing boats in plywood epoxy, we had hundreds of scarfs to make until 10 feet long (panels 10*5 6mm thick), so I made a vacuum scarfing table with 2 saws.
England I would not roll it with just adhesive tape, so that would mean covering it in ties which defeats the object.
Had it been 6mm, a good join with internal fillet and tape is considered adequate for light duty. Not a structurally bad mistake, but not a 'traditional' look if you want a continuous normal plank effect. The time to get seriously precise is when the gunnels and decks are installed, at which time the whole thing will start to gain strength and stiffness.
This is where most of the strength and stiffness comes from, so these need to be fairly solid before doing much moving around. England This discussion is very helpful, despite the lack of agreement, in refining the method I am using. I have checked them for twist and the flat bottom plank of the hull for level side to side and the difference between the middle frame and the outer ones set at 9mm to give the required rocker.

Talking to someone experienced in stitch and tape he said it was simpler than I had feared. Once set it should be stronger than using ties, so should not be a problem turning it over.
I think the issue is due to the inability of a curtain rail and nails at 305mm centres to create a local reverse curve. It will be necessary to join two sheets of marine plywood (3.10 m long) to get a total length of 6 m.
The majority of reserves of buoyancy is placed in two coolers of a brave or we can keep the bait or fish on one side and the other cold beers. This will work in theory, the problem is, guide roller thickness changes with diameter so the new roller is too thick to fit. I haven't tried either one out yet as I am still thinking about it and shamelessly trolling for ideas.
To me it looks more like a series of halved joints than a true finger joint, and Duckworks seems to think that the joint needs to be taped to have adequate strength. I think you are intuitively correct about the length of the joint, which should be at least twice the plank width: I have tested butt joints in plywood and they have a bit more than 50% of the strength of the plywood. The 30 deg angle provides joint length 2x plank width and allows use of a standard 3-sided file for cleaning out the ends of the cuts. Finger joint ask also for a very precise machining, easily done on a small section of massive wood, almost impossible on a plywood panel. Reasons being, reduce windage, it looks too banana shaped to my eye, fitting the gunnels will be easier and as I will be cartopping, it would be nice to see where I am going. A couple of long levels across the sheers will tell you everything you need to know at that stage, but make sure they agree first! The main issues concerning me, are increased weight, risk of messing it up, the amount of sanding needed and resultant dust. Panels in front and rear axles of the boat and the two flaps of ice are cut from marine plywood 9mm. LENGTH As successful as the radius chine plywood monohull designs experience been this project has shown that this expression method is yet meliorate for catamaran hulls. The glue lines of the plywood will kill also the router bit in a short time, and these bits are pretty expensive.
This usually means just putting her in an accurate cradle or some braces to remove twist until the seat boxes, bilge partitions, soles and remaining bulkheads are installed and fully tabbed into place against the hull shell.
Stiffness - especially torsional stiffness - increases greatly when decks, floatation boxes, thwarts etc are added. You have given me an idea, I can throw ropes over the hull and pull the straight edges tight to the sheer to check for twist. Plans for cruising sailing catamarans that can be built away the amateur builder inward plywood. Again, no big deal, just be aware that you might have to tweak the hull a tad to get things square.
I'm not saying build accuracy doesn't count of course, just that a small twist in the incomplete hull requires only a small force to correct, and when the structure is completed it will hold the new shape because it is so much stiffer. Timbre plans for unskilled boatbuilders monohull and multihull catamarans sharpies skiffs power catamarans and sailplaning boats plywood foray plank. Bow height off the floor, transom corners from the floors, diagonal measurements at the transom corners, etc. It's usually pretty easy to see any twists and shove a wedge under a cradle support to lift a wayward corner, before the goo cures.

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