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Filling the weave will increase the strength to some extent but at the expense of extra weight. The adhesive tape I am using does not seem to leave a residue, instead it pulls up the wood fibres when you remove the tape, fluffing up the surface, but a couple of passes with sandpaper tidies it up. Overcoating without sanding seems to be very dependant on the epoxy system used and temperature. Note the use of maximum strength ,there is no way that a piece of cloth without being filled and a cover coat applied is as strong , now this comes from folks that make the glass and epoxy and it just makes sense ,when you run those extra coats filling the weave it makes a solid straight line unit which is always stiffer than a crooked line. We are talking tape on raw wood ,the only epoxy you have is in the fillets so blush is a non factor ,plus soap and water will not dissolve a lot of adhesives that are used on tape I was talking about between epoxy coats of course. Originally Posted by txriverrat I never sand between coats of epoxy unless it is over 72 hours between coats.
Those same engineers told us we could coat epoxy within 72 hours and still get a chemical bond The term 'same engineers' need to be quantified more than just hearsay. Originally Posted by txriverrat Leaving the weave open does give you a rougher finish ,I agree with that.
Using acetone to wipe of places tape has been , One boat I built I had white spots in the glass everywhere I had used tape , I had to sand a 16 ft boat down to bare wood removing the epoxy and cloth to fix it , yep I am going to wipe down anything that I feel might contaminate where I am fixing to cover.
I still disagree with you on the fill coats of epoxy, stiffness comes from the sandwich construction, compression or tension strength comes from the epoxy and ,I understand that. I have a friend that has a medical condition where he cant lift over 40 lbs , so he builds extremely light boats, he epoxy both sides of his ply ,no cloth , that has been tested and increases the strength and stiffness 6 times. I do some racing and most is on rivers where you have rocks logs steel concrete portages , every wood boat I have seen with a hole knocked in it has been scrimped on epoxy and glass on the interior to save weight,so this is one of my pet peeves, your outside glass and cloth is for wear for the most part, the inside glass and cloth is where you get the tensile strength when you run up on a rock log or whatever.
Like I said location sensitive has a lot to do with a boat and if it floats and is safe it is a great.
Originally Posted by txriverrat I have a friend that has a medical condition where he cant lift over 40 lbs , so he builds extremely light boats, he epoxy both sides of his ply ,no cloth , that has been tested and increases the strength and stiffness 6 times. Dont forget that total tensile strength has a lot to do with the size of the material section. In summary, I still cant find any reason to believe that the fill coats of epoxyprovide any significant amount of extra strength. Location: Texas When you run onto a rock or something, the hull gets forced inwards.
This is exactly backwards ,when the bottom of a boat is pushed upward as running on a rock will do the outside is under compression the inside is under tension , coat you a piece with glass and cloth and try it you will find out I am correct. We disagree on a lot but thats ok and like I said in the beginning these or my findings and I still stick with them. Ok you grasp the bow in the center and push foreward ,same thing a rock does to the bottom of the boat , it compresses the back of the bow and stretches the front thats how you get your power out of a bow. Also something else to consider is you are making an arch the one that is on the side that pressure is applied from is shorter than the one on the opposite side from the pressure, shorten an arch you get compression stretch one you get tension.
Originally Posted by rwatson When you run onto a rock or something, the hull gets forced inwards. I was thinking about your build the other day and at the risk of starting a controversy, I had a thought. For a plate surface Ttop will be much greater than Tbottom and failure is going to occur above the rock. Originally Posted by txriverrat When you run onto a rock or something, the hull gets forced inwards. Rather late in the proceedings I checked using a laser for twist using poles tied to the underside of the sheer although the middle one rested on the workmate adjusted to be the same distance from the sheer on both sides. I built the garage about 10 years ago with the idea that it could be converted easily to living accommodation, did not think curtains or blinds suited a garage, not easy to get oil off, so used plywood instead, which also gives added security and insulation. Having turned the boat upright I spent some time setting it up loose on 3 stands but found I could not get the amount of rocker right and stay within the beam dimension.
As expected the hull was floppy (trying to lift one end just spread the topsides at the middle) but I was surprised how stiff it was in torsion as a U-shape is not good at resisting torsion. The other frames needed a slight push to get them in contact all round so I used 4 screws through the bottom to hold it in place in addition to the top 2 screws. Having done that the boat came into shape with the rocker being within a couple of mm of the design and the centreline of the frames and ends aligning.


If I was to build it again, I would have paid more attention to keeping the frames in the correct position and the planks in contact with the frames while filleting the chines, it seems to have turned out well but could have gone seriously wrong. Having got it in position I spent some time getting the ends lined up with a plumb line then ran a bead of West Six10 to fix the plank ends. This is the start : we'll draw the points obtained through the free software Delfship on marine plywood panel. Substituting the points obtained using the software Delfship on the plates against marine plywood. It will be necessary to join two sheets of marine plywood to achieve against the edges of a length of 6 m. With the software DelfShip we get a page which outlines the different parts that make up our ship.
Although some shores are sometimes difficult to read because the numbers are superimposed on our plan, we have enough points to trade to see the coordinates on the plates against plywood. For large edge length (over 3.10m in) it is necessary to assemble the marine plywood panels together.
It seemed, however, it was easier to trace and cut the edges without assembling the plates, because the space available and the size of our room was a little small. When the coordinates are shown on two sheets of plywood laid against end to end, it only remains to draw a line that reaches well smoothed all points.
I'm a big believer in temporary screws, and I was tempted to suggest it to Steven, but he's on a roll and I didn't want to do more than cheer.
I have read about the temporary screws method but wasn't really planning on going that route. A couple hundred small blocks plus a couple hundred drywall screws might set you back $20.00. Although I'd defer to you on almost most boat building things James, I'd have to say, unless the finish with be painted both inside and out I'd hate to see little epoxy filled screw holes on the plank edges. John Brooks describes using an outside lap batten and drywall screws with pads under the heads and beveled pine blocks on the inside. Here we have a set of frames for a cabin dory, with jigging legs attached and all set up on the ladder frame.
David is fairing the cabin beams on a different 21' Nexus Dory, in a different part of the shop, while the client's little girl frolics in the shavings. We are located on the Snohomish River in the Pacific Northwest, about 20 miles north of Seattle. The ACE 14 is an exciting daysailer with stowage compartments fore and aft which allow you to carry an ample load of camping gear for longer trips. The plans include six sheets of construction drawings, and full size patterns printed on Mylar for accuracy and ease of use.
The time you will need to complete the ACE will depend very much on the pace at which you work. It can be used for paneling and decking as well as for fitting out, for example in boats with steel or aluminum hulls. It is either completely made from sliced pine veneers or from pine face veneers and sliced spruce inner core veneers. With plank dimensions of 3000 mm x 100 to 300 mm they are much easier to work with than plywood sheets of 2500 x 1250 mm. Also, there are many examples of enough epoxy to be dimpled, but still smooth enough to be easily cleaned. A couple lbs of epoxy on a 14 ft boat doesnt amount to anything ,also this is a wide boat we are talking about and it gets more important the wider the panels are .
So leaving out the glass is not saving much weight, but is reducing the 'strength' by a huge amount.
England Autumn is here and I decided that my garage could do with further insulation and draught proofing. The middle one made good contact all round and could be held with some wooden blocks to align it on the bottom and a screw at each top edge. There was a couple of mm twist on the winding poles but there is excess plywood on the top edges as I have still to decide on the shape of the sheer. It will be necessary to join two sheets of marine plywood (3.10 m long) to get a total length of 6 m. With proper angle is quite fast, but if you do not have such a tool, the easiest way is to put two plates against the marine plywood on each other and shift the top plate and s 'use it as a rule.


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I don't think wait time for curing is going to be a real issue, I will probably have other things demanding my time anyway. I tried his system a few boats ago and haven't thought about any other the other ways since. She is designed for a crew of two or three, although she can be sailed singlehanded (she handles strong breezes beautifully under just a reefed mainsail). I am working in a boatbuilders' co-op, so there are all kinds of boatbuilders around, and they all come in and admire my boat. I am not sure that we have had any more fun with a boat than we are having with out Current [ACE 14] Solitude. Slicing is used to produce decorative veneers, we offer crown cut veneer and quarter cut veneer. The main difference with plywood is the decorative look of planks due to the sliced veneers, the transparent glue and being only so wide that longitudinal seams will not appear on the top face veneer.
Helping on a lot of small boats and the ones I have built 72 hours has worked well for me.
Your bows dont have to be reinforced on the backside of a bow (the part to you ) they do need reinforcing on the face or front side because the tension of drawing will pull the fibers apart and you have a high percentage of failure in unbacked bows. At this stage about 85% of the chines were fully filleted on the outside so adjustment was not available. I used a hot glue gun to attach the wooden blocks but the wood was so cold the glue set before it was positioned so I had to warm the blocks first. Then as the strake goes on I can quickly run a screw through the block and outer lap into the inner plank and pull it all up snug. The batten is key to fairing the lap and can be used trickily to fair low spots and push the lap into fairness if there are places that need it. Notice that the cabin bulkhead has been notched at the sheer for the deck shelf, which will go into the setup after the stem has been installed. I have followed your drawing and directions very carefully, and everything has just gone together perfectly. The illustrated construction manual takes you step by step through each stage of building the boat. I bought 2 sheets of foil backed foam insulation and filled in the access to the loft and under the steel beams. We chose to put an epoxy undercoat on these frames before setting them up, as the interior was to be painted.
Also, notice that the cabin bulkhead has been cut off short to put the boat at a better working height.
This boat will be dry sailed, or kept out of the water when not in use, so it's OK to use Awlgrip on the bottom instead of antifouling. Congratulations on putting together a superb set of plans, and a great design."Jim Leefe, Sausalito, CA. The only thing that more layers contribute is incompressibility ( and only up to a point at that) - sheer strength and linear strength are not enhanced much by extra layers. The manufacturers instructions take precedence over any 'general advice' that you may hear. Epoxy without re-inforcing is little more than extra weight from a structural point of view.
Makes it far nicer to work in and heat during the winter, as as said, makes it such that for a change in decoration, can become living space. If you look closely, you can see that the chine gussets have been allowed to run wild on the topsides. Testing is ongoing at Savonia University of Applied Sciences, Finland, but the first "weather test" showed no damage or deterioration in glue seams.



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