I was looking for a way to keep my small inventory of plywood organized and easy to access.
American Woodworker magazine was acquired by F+W Media (parent company of Popular Woodworking) in 2014.
Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years. This cart contains an amazing amount of storage in a small space and rolls out of the way when not in use. I think I want to build the Shop-Notes roll around lumber storage cart, but I can only find the layout material's list and not the actual article as to how to build it.
I suppose I could make it from the layout drawing, but I am thinking I could run into problems without the assembly instructions. Also, I am not dead set on this particular design, but it would be a huge improvement on what I have now, which is basically a wall to lean the plywood against and some cardboard boxes for the small pieces. There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't. I was also thinking about making it a little bit wider so that the top could be wide enough to put a couple of bins for storing small scraps and what not. I found the idea on Woodsmith Shop, and with a few modifications, built one that fully meets our needs. The entire structure is built out of plywood, and that means this project involves making a lot of rip cuts.
The upper cleat needs to have an angled backside, from which you will hang the vertical supports.
Tip from Experience: Consider cutting a short lip on the top of each shelf support to prevent materials from sliding off. You need to cut two notches on the vertical supports that will accommodate the upper and lower cleats.
Remember to orient the cleat such that the angle is going into the wall (so that the vertical supports will hang from it).
Use the stud finder to locate studs and pre-drill the holes, and put a washer on each lag screw before screwing it in. If I did this project again, I would incorporate the tips to angle the lower cleat and cut a lip into the shelf supports.
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I like it, though it looks like you could use a lip on the end of the bottom shelf to keep things from sliding off (since the sheet goods have to lean against the wall). Alternatively, instead of a lip on the bottom shelves, you could possibly cut them to angle upward as they project from the wall. Something else I just thought of is to cover the top edges of the shelves with something to protect the sawn edge of the plywood.
I’ve got plans I found in a book for a similar bin as Jeff posted above, except its sort of A-Frame style with sheets on one side and board bins on the other. My father is making cedar- strip canoes in his garage, and has long, thin strips of cedar EVERYWHERE. Looks great, Really appreciate the amount of detail that has gone into this post with the images too. Your concept of wall mounted storage for lumber is the same concept used in commercial or industrial applications. YLearning how to build shed doors is perhaps one of the most difficult tasks in building your shed!


The following directions on building 2 - 5' wide double shed doors are for a saltbox style shed.
Now, to determine your door panel length from top to bottom, if your wall height is 'x' feet, add 2" to this height and this is what the total length will be for your door panels which will get nailed onto your wall studs for the front wall. At this point, you will need to take one of your completed door assemblies and lay it face up on a pair of saw horses. Installation of your door latch and hasp is not necessary at this point in time and will come later in your shed construction.
Another method to building double shed doorsBuilding single shed doors.Framing for shed doors and windows. Do not purchase materials or attempt to build this shed project unless you have studied the information provided thoroughly, and have verified all dimensions and material requirements for yourself. Headers For Windows and Doors Feb 07, 16 10:01 AMHow to make headers for door and window openings in your shed framing.
Pictures of Sheds, Storage Shed Plans, Shed Designs Dec 27, 15 10:46 AMVisit our library of pictures of sheds built from our shed plans.
Awesome 10x12 Barn Shed Dec 27, 15 10:41 AMSee how Jason built his very own 10x12 barn shed and had a great time doing it. The garage at my town house is small, but I did have a narrow space along one of the sidewalls next to the overhead door.
Takes some effort to move around (at least as full I have it) but nothing I haven't been uncomfortable with. If I didn’t have that handy, this lumber rack would cost about $55, since I would have had to purchase two whole sheets. If you take that route, I suggest using guides to ensure perfectly straight cuts, because circular saws are otherwise difficult to control. I shortened my vertical supports (fourth item below) because I had to work around a garage door. We omitted this in our first build and have not had problems, but we think it would make a slightly better design.
I didn’t have my lovely assistant, so I used some spare boards and a lot of blue tape to get things into position. It’s strong enough to hold my weight (and a lot more), and it keeps everything off the floor. I am not sure I would eliminate two of the supports, one maybe, but only three supports seems like too little.
So far, nothing has fallen, and until that happens, odds are I won’t make any modifications.
It is hinged to a wall stud so it can’t fall over but swings out on wheels so both sides of the bin can be reached.
I was also thinking that with some ingenuity you could easily build a stop that sits between the posts that could rotate out of the way when you didn’t need it anymore.
I NEED to do some kind of lumber storage in our garage, but sadly I don’t have as much wall space. I was wondering about warping but I see from your comment above that you haven’t encountered any.
Got a question on your own project?Ask your question in our Home Improvement Help Forums.Otherwise, leave a note here! We follow pro remodelers as they tackle tough renovations, developing step-by-step guides based on their real-life experiences. You can however use the method for any style shed, and it requires siding your shed with 4'x8' siding panels like T1-11 or 'Smartside' siding panels.


You will need to mark the location of the top corner of your hinge assembly by taking one of your 16d nails and nailing it directly through your door siding. We are going to mark the top cut along the top of the door, and down along the middle of your hinge boards.
I think that I got away with only using a sheet or 2 of plywood, using plywood for the base, the horizontal shelves and the bins for the cut offs.
By eliminating two of the vertical supports and being careful to minimize waste, you can build this rack with only one sheet of plywood, almost cutting the total cost in half. We use our table saw and mitre saw, because they make the cuts much easier, since we can use built-in guides. The shelves can accommodate sheet goods and dimensional lumber of any length since they can slide left and right. I feel like the five supports do a great job supporting everything across the entire length so I don’t expect much (if any) warping. You can put 4' doors on your shed, but down the road you may need a bigger opening.Perhaps you may get a mower in the future that has a 54" cut! You can use a chalk line for this marking (preferred method), or take a straight 2x4 and mark along the edge of it from the nail all the way down to bottom of the hinge middle, and then from the nail over to the top edge of your inside 2x4 door member. Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information and design, the user is ultimately responsible for the use of this information. I have straight casters for one end to help with directional movement and while that has been helpful I think four swivels might have been better. Also, do not rip the entire length of the plywood to make your vertical supports, because you’ll be using the excess at the end of the sheet for further shelf supports. I didn’t incorporate the dowels, and would recommend making the bottom cleat angled, which essentially eliminates the need for the dowels in the original design. Position your cleats as necessary, but work to keep approximately the same distances from top and bottom. If you don’t have similar concerns, you can hang the upper cleat at whatever height is convenient.
I like the wall mount because it can hold longer pieces but I also like the portability of a cart. I use the same trick for installing crown molding, etc., solo, and caulk hides the nail holes. Please note that which ever door overlaps you'll want to line up the 2x4 right on the vertical edge. All information provided is copyrighted and cannot be duplicated without the permission of Shedking. It is not going to cost you that much more, so my advice is to go ahead and build the biggest door you can. The other door has the vertical 2x4 lined up just to the other side of the groove so that when your doors are fully assembled and on your shed, they will overlap properly when closed and the 2x4 vertical members will not interfere with the closing. I used two fixed casters and kind of wishing they were both swivel to have more flexibility of storage. 6' is great, 5'is ok, and 4' I don't even recommend.Now, grab 2 of your siding sheets and lay them out on a flat surface so that the edges overlap, just the way they would if you had just closed your shed doors and the inside edges overlapped and made a light free closure.
Pulling it out from the wall to get at the other side isn't a problem but if I need to move it around I really need to clear the decks.



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