The Designer Line of seats are made special with double stitch sewing while using Darcon Polyester Thread. Our High Density Foam is Mold and Mildew Resistant with an added plastic moisture barrier gives you the support and comfort for long hours on the water.
If you are looking for custom aluminum fence paneling we have you covered by the size of your pontoon boat!
Our Deluxe Pontoon Furniture comes standard with a high impact plastic frame and a vinyl finish molded seat base. Fully Roto-molded Frames are durable and easy to clean - We do not make any seats out of wood.
We have designed your pontoon seat bases with molded drain tubes to allow water to drain properly off the side of your pontoon boat to increase the life of your pontoon floor.
You"re going to give multiple applications of coil cleaner or some kind of acid on those toons. Yes, drill pilot holes from the topside and we never did hit where a previous screw was, we drilled slightly off angle (angled slightly away from the edge by half inch) so as so pull the plywood together tightly, we only did enough to hold, then went back and finished.


If you had a trailer, I"d put that toon back into the lake and let it soak for 48hours then put it out and take it immediately to a place with a high pressure wash wand to or have a covey of kids with putty knifes scraping most of that off while its soft.
May not be nothing, but I need you to look really, really close as it seems to be a hairline crack from the top to the bottom of that inside starboard toon. I still haven"t done the inside of my toon yet, but yours had a considerable more buildup than mine did, so getting the vast majority of the crud off will help with your performance and saving gas. As for heating that building, any one of these will do the job, but you might need 2 tanks of gas to get it to set and dry (lower the temp, long it"ll take for the glue to dry out s its water based). The new screws are almost twice as large - you need a really good drill driver but that baby will pull the wood down tight. Same as in auto fiberglas repair kits?  scbadiver or somebody will chip in on what they used on mine, I didn"t watch them on that.
Now this looks like a rebuild project, so if it is, just lets us know and we"ll move it in there. I"d keep treating it several more times as its starting to look pretty good to the point where you could do some very light sanding (VERY LIGHT with FINE GRIT), don"t do like I get and get sander happy.


However with a 30hp, you could go a couple of days compare to my couple of hours on my motor . Now keep in mind that you won"t get it near as smooth as the top half and yes I"d go with Nuvite (F9 then move down gradually).
Also be sure to wear something over your face as you will get BLACK from head to toe and it WILL get up your nose if you don"t wear protection.
If you get the redeck kit from PontoonStuff, its CCA treated and it'll take care of itself.




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