Location: santa cruz,ca Hey Blackice, Here is a pic of a wood built, gas powered hydro. Originally Posted by blackice I'm looking to build a remote control model boat for my nephew and don't really know where to start with regard to design ideas and construction.
Having said that, the details of buying your equipment has gone far beyond what radio control models used to be when I was a boy. I am in the process of doing scale model testing, and just getting the radio control to make the motor spin requires a new paradigm shift in thinking.
For example, unlike say an electric slot car, that uses a variable resistance switch to control power - all the electric RC engines are controlled by watercooled, solid state Speed Controllers. For example, you are expected to hold the speed arm of the RC transmitter to 'dead stop' before you turn the transmitter on. You will also find that all the fine detail of how to utilise the 'smarts' of this newfangled gear is written in tiny, hard to read 'chinese jargonees' on toilet paper, along with lots of warnings that if you do the wrong thing, you may damage your $300 worth of gear. Location: Lakeland Fl USA Rwatson you may be pleased to know that, arguably, the worlds best RC sheet winch is made in Oz. The EC12class is a 59 inch, 17 pound, 72 inch mast height model taken from the Tank test model that Charlie Morgan used when he designed his Americas Cup challenger. I've had a brief look around the forum and hopefully I'm okay to ask for some advice on here. I'm looking to build an electric powered, sports type of boat and have a reasonable amount of knowledge when it comes to model making and the electrics side of things having previously raced both electric and nitro buggy models competitvely. I'm looking to get some ideas and design the boat before building as I don't really want to make it up as I go along. The main problem with beginners it's they go too fast (the dream syndrom) and spend a lot of money on a too complex boat with very expensive accessories etc. Stringer repair » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Learning To Build A Model Boat. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
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Apr 03, 2015Bertram 38 Convertible - inspired "Dirty Deeds"Right after finishing up my previous vessel Berrinche, I embarked in this project in preparation to this boating season.
Learn how to build model boats and ships from plans or kits - static or radio controlled - sailing or electric power. This website is where I share tips and tricks Ia€™ve picked up in this hobby for the last 25 or so years. In preparing the RC boat hull for the next step, you can now carefully remove the structure from the building board.
Also, we're done with the hull alignment template that was placed under the wax paper to guide component placement and alignment. After you remove the hull frame from the building board, remove any wax paper remnants if any.
Place the hull frame on top and position the raised part of the transom inbetween the "legs" of the deck.
Trim away the area of the keel where the propeller will pass through it, thus creating a tunnel for ditto.
Now peel away the template (make sure all bulkhead locations are transferred first!) and place it on a flat surface with the attached doubler facing down.
Propeller shaft tunnel finished - note faint pencil marks for bulkhead #4 just to the left of the doublers.
Transom and keel transition - note how the keel is lined up to the center line of the transom and flush at the rear. A square corner of a balsa sheet is held against the hull at each station and the edge of chine shelf and keel is marked on the balsa. Lay the sheet down on your cutting surface and lay a straight-edge between the two tick marks and cut with a razor blade or X-acto knife.
Now the hull frame is ready for sanding to smooth out the shape some and to give the skin more edge to hold onto.
The information presented here is a basic start to finish, building of a wooden sailing model. For builders wanting to cover their model with fiberglass A separate article will offer directions for covering a wooden star with fiberglass.
With the popularity of radio-controlled models, the number of people interested in owning a model yacht has also grown - in geometric range. Over the past 40 years I have fielded many questions regarding the choices and considerations which go into selecting a radio-controlled sailboat.
Four questions are asked over and over by prospective skippers: How do the radio-controls work? Thirty years ago started to write a, step by step, manual of sorts to assist modelbuilders that want to build a radio controlled ship models. In 2006 John Fisher drew up the lines of the Star45 model as CAD (computer aided design) files. Over the past 30 years I have fielded many questions regarding the choices and considerations which go into selecting a radio-controlled sailboat. The AMYA STAR 45 Class discussion group is a terrific place to exchange ideas and talk about building Star 45 models for racing in AMYA regattas. The new generation of wooden S45's began in 2006 when John Fisher drew up CAD files for laser cutting frames and building jigs. John's frames are scaled from the lines of International Star Boat, John's 2006 hull's weighed in at one pound, far less than the original Dumas boats.
With the building set up the next step is to lineup all the frames (if they are solid pieces they are bulkheads).
Before ordering laser cut frames, decide on the wood for the hull sides if you want to meet the AMYA specifications (when planked the beam may not exceed 12 inches). Billie Geisler's commented on August 1, 2006 in a post to the Star45 forum that he builds hulls from cedar rather than balsa.
You will probably want to trace the outline onto the wood and cut close to shape before gluing it on.
The important ingredient is building a model where the Center of Effort and the Center of Lateral Resistance are lined up.
You could also layer sheets of plywood and laminate sized pieces to achieve a airfoil shape.
The ballast bulb for the this model may be constructed of any material {ballast materials denser than lead is prohibited}. Wikipedia describes winged keel is a sailboat keel, usually of high aspect ratio, that uses a nearly horizontal foil, the "wing", at the bottom to provide additional performance. If you race the model in AMYA regatta they may not be changed, interchanged, substituted or otherwise manipulated once any heat or series of heats in which scores will be compiled, has started. Ballast bulbs may be made from any readily available material, such as poured lead, lead shot, etc. Important to note that he Star 45 Class specifically excludes radio equipment, sail controls and batteries (power cells) from being considered ballast.
You may want to place a piece of wood simulating the keel fin into the mold so you can attach the bulb to the fin. While we are working on a bare hull we must decide on the keel fin and how it will be mounted (attached) to the hull. The tubes were glued into the hull using JB weld since it has very good strength for bonding metal ( JB weld is the silver colored epoxy).
AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2008 "Rudders may be constructed of wood, fiberglass, plastic, plastic laminates or metal. One way to build a rudder quickly and easily is cut out the shape in a thin material, tape the sides together, insert the rudder shaft, fill the inside of the rudder with epoxy. On a full size Star Boat the tall mast is supported by sliding back stays one one each side of the boat. Some skippers use a servo to control the back stay tension or they link to sail winch to slightly tighten the back stay when sailing down wind.
The mast head fitting maybe a "T" shaped fitting or as simple as a small tube of rod through a hole drilled in the msst head. The main boom of a model is linked to the mast by a swivel connector which allows the boom to swing from side to side. Typically the boom on a model needs to kept from lifting when the sails are not trimmed in hard. To keep the main boom from flying up a "boom vang" kicker a simple device is set between the boom and the foot of the mast.


Originally on the old model the jib was loose footed and did not use a jib boom (aka a jib club). Typically a swivel is placed along the forward end of the jib boom and clipped to a deck fitting (aka jib rack). The driving force of the sails is changed when the air slot between the mast and jib changes.
Instead of wooden or arrow shaft booms, airplane clips instead of the turnbuckles and so on. Chain plates themselves can be as simple as a long screw eye bolt, as fancy as a jib-rack or tangs screwed into the side of a hull. Which ever style of chain plate the hull and deck must be braced (reinforced) to withstand the loads.
Basically you cut the bottom panel seam flat, and draw your airfoil MAC (mean aerodynamic chord) and cut it with a #9 X-acto or scissors. Battens are allowed on the mainsail but are restricted to 4 in number, equally spaced along the leech and may not exceed 8.50 inches in length.
At about $12.00 a yard, spinnaker cloth is twice the cost of fabric store ripstop, but spinnaker cloth is coated with resin that makes it far more stable and eliminates all porosity (wind can blow right through ripstop).
Dropping a model into the stand can cause the stand to close up and pinch the model if the keel doesn't sit on the ground. IMHO, it is good practice to have models sit on their keels and have the weight of the model supported by the keel. Phil Geren needed a cradle for a woodie Star 45 hull under construction to hold the hull while fairing the gunnels to the frames in preparation for installation of the deck and while designing and installing the controls. They have their own microprocessor that 'talks' to the intelligent 'brushless' watercooled motors, that will beep at you if things aren't right.
This will 'program' the motor to drop to dead slow if the boat goes out of range of the transmitter. Here you'll see the latest updates and additions to the site with the most recent addition first. Ita€™s not rocket science, but sometimes the wheel gets reinvented one too many times in this hobby.I do admire those that can spend several years, adding detail after detail on a single model.
However, if your building board is really dark, or just ugly, you can lay the template upside down under a fresh sheet of wax paper. Give the deck side of the structure a light sanding with 120 grit sandpaper backed with a flat sanding block. However, when it comes to installing a propeller shaft most of those builders would be scratching their heads trying to get a propeller shaft tunnel aligned correctly. Do as follows:On the keel, we need to stay clear of the bulkhead #4 location, so make sure the keel is well marked in that area. Prop up either extreme of the keel with scraps of material until level and clamp or place weights on top. The purpose is to provide a temporary landing and support for the next step in fitting the lower triangular parts of the bulkheads.When I built the prototype it took me a while to figure this out, so they may be missing in some of the pictures below.
Just like when the deck was attached, keeping the keel perpendicular and centered is more important than locating front to back. With the other hand, with a sharp pencil, mark the edge where the keel and chine shelf intersect (see picture below).
You can save a little time by using the first triangle at each station as a template for the opposite side. A model sailing craft operates with the same sophistication of design as any full-sized yacht. As with model aircraft, the choice of sailing models runs the gamut from child's toy to sophisticated craft.
John Fisher, Phil Geren, and many members of the Star 45 Yahoo discussion group provided essential content. He arranged for Steven's Aero to lazer cut the frames (aka bulkheads) and the building of S45's was revolutionized and the class gained world wide attention of modelers wanting to build a wooden sailing model.
The hull can be a single type of wood or the bottom, sides and deck can each be a different wood. John Fisher has been very cooperative in adjusting the drawings to accommodate builders needs. Make sure it is located correctly before starting gluing.Photo showing the planks after being trimmed close to the stringers. The fin may be solid or hollow and constructed of reinforced plastic, plastic laminates, fiberglass, wood or metal. With a heavy keel bulb hanging a the bottom of the keel you don't want the keel twisting and distorting as the model heels and changes position. The Mainwaring keel and ballast bulb concentrates the weight, other long symmetrical bulbs may spread the ballast weight over 9 inches. Insert a couple of long threaded rods parallel between the two sheets they create an airfoil and extend from the top for attachment. The horizontal foil serves two purposes: it acts as an winglet on the foil, effectively doubling the aspect ratio, and they produce additional lift, but downwards. The use of Velcro or similar quick release fasteners is prohibited as methods of mounting ballast.
You may also want to consider using a two piece mold large enough to hold a lead pellet-resin mix ballast material and them epoxy or bolt the halves together. There is a lot of equipment inside the hull so easy access to the nuts and bolts is required. The left hand drawing show the rudder of a molded fiberglass hull and the righthand drawing is based on the 2008 AMYA star plans. The crew makes adjustments while underway, when the boat tacks the active back stay is released and the other back stay is pulled into position.
With a jib boom that uses a swivel-vang the tension on the back stay changes as the jib moves.
Vangs take a variety of forms from a turnbuckle, to a piece of fishing line to a line controlled by a servo to allow the boom to be pulled down or allowed to raise up.
The addition of a jib club allowed the jib shape to be controlled.Like the main sail the foot of the jib will fly up is some type of vang is not in place.
This has the advantage of staying taught against the back stay as the sails are trimmed thus keeping the mast straight.
Since the jib stay attached to the jib boom in this arrangement moves off center and is subject to varying wind forces the tension on the jib stay and back stay will vary. Maximum driving force occurs when the curve of the jib luff is shaped to meet the curve of the main sail. There is the load applied by the sails while under sail and there is the load as skippers pick up the model by the mast and carry it around. I drill into the aluminum mast, push the wire out from inside the mast, swag a sleeve onto a doubled wire and pull the wire back and swag to the turnbuckle. It has been my experience that skippers grab the model hatch rim and lift the model to carry the model to to pick it up from the water.
Design your hatch sizes and locations to permit your hand(s) to access and remove these items.
Duddy's jig allows the builder to re-position the hull as it is being built and can be used to hold frames of different models.
Most seriously involved model boaters just go ballistic when the T word is used by the uninitiated. Average cost for a decent one, ready to sail, is about $3000, The world championship was held in New Zealnd a couple of years back. On electric boat models just a submarine, but a lot of electric motor gliders and strange flying things. I truly envy the patience they possess and, more importantly: the time they have available!Most of the techniques I use are time-saving ways to fast-forward through mundane and time consuming tasks. Even if the wax paper looks clean and comes right off, I'd opt to replace it for the next step.
It will provide a light, neutral background when you build that makes it easier to spot things that are out of the norm or things you drop or spill.
Go easy as the only purpose is to take down any obvious high spots.Put the hull frame aside while we focus on the two deck halves (item "B" on the plans). Don't expect them all to line up perfectly, but it will give you a good idea of how close to ideal you are at this point.Also check and make sure the frame is making contact with the deck along the deck stringers, transom, bulkheads and the stem piece.
It would require a jig, extra long drill and some luck to get it right.We're going to take much of the tool requirements out of it and stop relying on luck for success, here is how.
Next, lay the keel (template down) on a flat surface and glue one doubler to the back side of the keel just ahead of the #4 bulkhead location and line it up parallell with the bottom of the keel.If you're off by a few millimeters from either that's fine.
Try hard not to cut into the doubler.The prototype used a 4mm outer diameter stuffing tube, so that's the size marked on the drawing and template.


Glue the second doubler in place and weigh or clamp to the assembly.Same rules apply as far as location - stay clear of bulkhead #4 location etc. The easiest and best way to locate the keel front to back is to sand the front-most part of the chine shelf flush to the angle of the stem piece. He cuts the rough edges and flats off with a 10 inch table saw, then use a 3 inch table saw from Micro- mark to cut the final planks.
Because the yacht is heeled over when sailing upwind the leeward foil is closer to vertical, and provides additional side force hence making the boat sail upwind more efficiently. The AMYA s45 class specifies such ballast shall be fixed in place by gluing, fiberglassing, or bolting (bolts and screws.
However batteries (power cells) which are not ballast can be mounted with Velcro allowing them to be placed within the hull to change the weight distribution. Fill the second pan with plaster and lay the original plaster mold on top of the second plaster filled pan.
I wire the bolt heads together and can easily remove the nuts, push the bolts out of the way and remove the keel. The balanced rudder lakes some of the load off the steering servo The leading edge portion is pressured by the water flow as the model sails.
The model star boat replaces the two back stays with a single back stay from a mast head fitting to a back stay fitting on the transom.
The jib vang can be as simple as a swivel attached to the forward end of the jib boom and the jib-rack. The radial filling attaches to the end of the boom with a gooseneck An rigid adjustable vang from the radial fitting to the jib boom control the lift of the boom at at set angle. Consider using short pieces if thin walled electrical tubing (shrink tube) which can be found in building supply places like Home D.
Align them at the pinnacle of the stem and check alignment at the rear edge where they join. If care has been taken so far in cutting out the parts and aligning, nothing should be too far out of alignment.When things look good place drops of thin CA along stem piece, bulkheads and deck stringers. Try not to have the doubler extend passed the bottom of the keel, it's better if you err on the other side. This way you'll have an edge that should correspond with the front-most edge on the keel.As you can see on the picture below, I didn't do it this way, but it would have made things a little easier. I like to work from the center and towards each end so it adds some well needed stability to the keel. I sailed my first model tethered by a string off the floats at the Wollaston Yacht Club, Quincy, MA, as a pre-teen sometime in 1947. We'll start with the hull and at the same time build other parts that will be as assembled as a finished model. He imported thin ply for the furniture industry and the sheets were 50 inches by 50 inches.
The keel fin may be bolted onto the hull or go up inside the hull to be held i place by a keel trunk. The windward winglet is closer to horizontal and hence produces a force directly downward, which gives a small benefit to the vessel's stability. A common one is simply a short pin in the foot of the mast that sets into a mast step with series of holes.
Some skippers want the rig to be set up stiff and the mast jack allows the mast to be jacked-up to re-tighten the stays. As the swivel is moved forward and aft along the jib boom the leach of the sail has more or less ability to rise.
Consider not only woven materials but also consider plastics such as mylar and mylar composites.
Also, but putting in the luff curve and using a bolt-rope main, you do have a sail with some draught to it, not just a flat sheet of cloth. Over-sew some corner panels, tack on some batten pockets and thread in a piece of weed-eater line up the hem of the luff and you are ready to put on your class markings and numbers. Mount the cradle frames on a 2'X4' piece of particle board, using the spacing of the balsa template included in the frames kit, and using a try square to get them vertical, and making sure that they are all on the same longitudinal center and all parallel. But the fun is not directly related with the size or price of the model, often it's even the contrary as I've seen in boats and planes. At this point, place a piece of tape over the joint to temporarily hold them together and flip the deck over with the tape facing down. Instead I eye-balled it in by looking at the profile and having the curved part of the keel tangent the angle of the stem.
Well suited for building by by the novice builder and skippers looking for a classic looking model to race. It broke away and was seen sailing off towards Rainsford Island a 21 acre island situated between Long Island and Peddocks Island. I've addressed these questions in "How to select Your Radio-Controlled Sailing Model" published on my MainZone Publishing blog. Having had keel fins delaminate within a year or two because of improper gluing I recommend using a very waterproof glue. There are suppliers that sell veneer that is paper thin that could be used for beautiful ply.
Winged keels are generally found on high performance sailboats, if they are not prohibited by class rules. Having heavily waxed the balsa-bulb immerses it in the plaster half way to the bulb center line. If the keel will be removable make certain the stub doesn't get keyed in and can't be removed from bellow the hull. Another reason for using a mast jack is to enable a skipper to set up the mast once and then move it without having re-align the rig.
Grommets in the corners are installed either with a seamstress tool or they could be ordered from Don Ginther at GBMY if he is still shipping, he was in the process of suspending operations. If you buy a suit of sails order them to be made to the AMYA specifications for the S45 Class. I have never fully lost interest in big boats and currently I'm restoring a 1960 Chris Craft sportsman. As time permits, I'll add more plans.Current projects include a balsa PT 109 and a number of other model ship plans. Pin or weigh the deck down on the building board.Mark the bulkhead locations across the same way as you did on the chine shelf. I got introduced to the International Star Class while crewing on one in 1954 out of Quincy Yacht Club. While the outside dries off quickly the interior may stay wet if the skipper doesn't take steps to get the inside dried out. Aircraft suppliers also offer thin basswood plywood (basswood being the hard core from the balsa tree). They are only of benefit for yachts sailing upwind where stability and the ability to produce side force are important.
When deciding on the hatches for your model keep in mind access not only to radio and servos but also access to battery mounting locations. It is easy to prop the fin and trunk down into the hull from above and discover it can't be removed from the bottom when the deck is in place. The sails usually carry a 5 point "Star Emblem" at least 2 inches in size (measured from point to point across the flat of the star.
Waiting in the wings are ironclads, pirate ships, torpedo boats, battleships, tugs, destroyers, a New York pilot schooner and many other.OK, enough talk, let's build something. Violete simply rolled up the plywood, wrapped it in brown shipping paper and sent it to me. Then he pulls out the balsa-plug covers the mold with (plastic) Saran wrap over places the waxed balsa-plug back in the mold. The hobby glue used for years on other models may weaken or part ruining the boat so choosing a glue or adhesive is an important decision. This is part two where the hull frame is finished and getting ready for planking.Continue reading "Build an RC Boat Hull - Part Two"Aug 31, 2012RC Model Boats - An Introduction to Building Your OwnLearn to build RC model boats the easy and inexpensive way. These projects are perfect for beginners and those looking for a cheap, easy, simple and fast build.Continue reading "RC Model Boats - An Introduction to Building Your Own"Aug 31, 2012Build an RC Boat Hull From ScratchA scratch built RC boat hull easy and inexpensive. Plans are available for download.Continue reading "Build an RC Boat Hull From Scratch"Aug 20, 2012Ironclads - From Casemates and Monitors to Pre-DreadnoughtsIronclads make great model boats. Simple solutions to many common questions surrounding home made RC boats.Continue reading "Radio Controlled Boats"Aug 06, 2012Simple Electric RC BoatsSimple Electric RC Boats build log.



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