I think i'll get an air disk sander as those are easy to get 24grit disk for, i'll use that for the rest, flip the disc around to get the outside flanges. I can re-enforce the inner liner, then do the 1st sheet of transom core the next day right? Notice in the pic (glass doesn't go to the top, that's the back of the splashwell which i assume is a type of putty. I don't think i can reasonably fix the bit of rot at the end of the knees without cutting the well. Location: Eustis, FL It doesn't have to be bonded, though if it is, it does stiffen things up quite a bit.
This will be my first go round with epoxy (you've discussed that with me on other theads), I'm not quite sure how much to get, 2 gallons?
Location: apollo beach,fl Ahh i see yeah, re-enforce the inner makes up for the outside and stiffens the whole thing.
Location: apollo beach,fl yeah can't wait for the skeeters after this rain, they are real healthy around here. TA Mahoneys close by me sells FGC that i've used but thanks i just checked the website and they are definently a bit cheaper than the other supply on the epoxy too, i've been thinking about making a trek over there.
Hardest part is with reading all the threads on this no one ever goes into much detail on this part. Location: Eustis, FL In a perfect world, you should do it all at once, but the inside operations and exterior will be relying on mechanical bonds in various places so, do one, then the other, as time permits. You have it about right; stagger the tabbing seams so they don't all land on the same spot. Location: apollo beach,fl Well maybe in the next 2 weeks i'll get to putting things back, been tied up with life house,kids,work.
Location: apollo beach,fl Neil, sorry i'm not familiar with SBC, just had to google it sphere core.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I have removed the wet plywood from the port side of the transom,will be doing the other side this weekend. I'm done removing the wood and ready to start prepping for the new wood, should I go with epoxy, vinylester on the rebuild? Location: Colorado Transom repair I thought that I would post this project that did 2 years ago.
Location: Virginia, USA Looks like you were careful with your workmanship and did a good job. The transom in this particular vessel is extremely thick (no one knows why) and special extension studs were made to bolt the leg in place.
It was this last thin outer layer that was worn and allowed the ingress of water, not the exhaust cut outs as first thought.
The seacast method of repair was considered but dismissed after reviewing comments on this forum especially those of member PAR from florida. New plan now is to use 50mm structural plywood with an additional glass ply glass sandwich to bring transom up to the required 65-70mm thickness. Have good fibreglass repair experience, so any polyesther glassing proceedure is not a problem, limited experience with Epoxy.
Location: canton oh Tja Jayslade, If you are going to use Nida core make sure that the glass on the outside of the transom is at least quarter in.
Location: north Markham I will NEVER EVER, EVER put wood in a boat below the water line again EVER,EVER. Location: India Hello This is nikhil i would like to know that from where i can got liner digram for making a GooD Boat . Location: Eustis, FL The transom on these boats had to withstand tremendous loads and even though they had big support knees, they had delamination issues.
I also agree the XL panels are very nice, but I've used non-pressure treated materials too.
I use epoxy for this type of repair, though reasonable results (as good as the manufacture) can be had with polyester.
Location: Sydney Thanks Gentlemen for all the good advice, PAR I have specifically followed your diverse range of advice, on this forum, since viewing a response to a seacast post by FOCA a while back.
As the original transom has not been removed, I will note the grain orientation of each specific layer and advise accordingly, would again appreciate your advice on the orientation of the specific layers. Once the desired new sandwich constructed transom is achieved say 6mm lower than original, glassing the outer skin to the new transom fairing into the original 2" band left from the old transom.
Cut out all required apertures oversize ie outdrive including bolts, exhausts etc by about 10mm and glass the edges to the required inner diameter. Location: Eustis, FL I agree Jim, that these are engineered structures, but in the case of long narrow very fast powerboats of this configuration, the only athwartship structural member, aft of midship, is the flange of the deck cap, some minimalist cockpit furniture and the major member of course the transom. Some manufactures are moving towards core structures, partly from maintenance issues, but mostly to increase the performance with a lighter structure of adequate substance. A boat's structural integrity is the sum of it's maintenance, which few folks understand any more, let alone perform. CIG29, if you'd like drop me an email (click on my name) and we can go over the laminate schedule options, but you're on the right track, so keep grinding away. Been doing a lot of research on this site and others on the subject of rot repairs to transoms and stringers. What started out as a soft sole repair has turned into a transom and stringer rebuild as well. Location: Brisbane Rebuilding Transom on runabout As you have wisely retained the glass outside shell of the old boat, it is a perfect template for the plywood that you are about to cut as you suggested. On the last insert, do not get any epoxy on the face toward the bow if you intend to finish the interior with fibreglass polyester, as poly does not stick to epoxy.


Now that you have made your new transom, it is VERY important now to fit the outboard carefully. What you will have done is to give the bolts a surface to set through that is obviously watertight, has reinforced the hole and also gives the nut, washers etc something to compress onto, instead of simply crushing the transom as most people do.
Should the new transom core sit snugly against the sides of the hull, or should it have a gap like the old one did? Normally I'd just reproduce the piece I tore out, but it looks to me like what I tore out wasn't the factory piece.
If it makes any difference, I plan to add knee braces glassed between the new transom and new stringers, along with a splash well.
The transom is brought up to the top of the corner Ryan and the cut out to suit the motor is lower in the middle. Yes transon vertical knees are also good, depends on what horsepower you are putting on the back. Location: maine i was just looking at your pics,, and did a quick read,, and see that you braced across ya stern,,,but you should have cross bracing too. Location: Indialantic, FL Hello, I'm in the final stages of a major transom repair on a 19' center console fishing skiff, and have over 3 grand invested, so I can appreciate the advice above. I eventually took the boat away from him because he was trying to scam at every opportunity, and am almost finished. Also I am wondering about the motor bolt holes, and if the gap exists there, I need to remove the motor, and fill the gap there also.
I'm finally getting close to some minor gelcoat refinishing, then I can re-wire and run the motor controls, and get back out on the water!
I don't think I will take on a project like this again, but I have learned a lot about boat building, design, and appreciate good construction. Most auto engine lifters (sometimes called cherry pickers) usually won't go high enough, but check around the rental shops and maybe you will find one !
The best I can think of is a cross beam (at least 2 - 2x8) supported by a couple of crossed 2x8 over the transom. Then using a rented engine lifter, you can get the engine upright and wheel it over to the cross beam and transfer it.
Most of the ply is off the flat the rest is a very thin veneer in areas I didn't sand off yet, should come off when i go to tooth with the 24 grit.
5% chainsaw to get the meat from the flanges, and 5% probably some randon tools I was trying. I'll look at the knees in a month or 2, i think i can access them from the bilge or putting in some access ports. I have matched gelcoat as well from other projects, I'd like to use that but i understand there's some particulars with using epoxy for the repair i have to read up on. All clean and toothed =) but I *really* need some experienced input on something the bit of rot on the end of the knee's is bugging me. So, if running big HP, you might consider bonding, if not, wait until you've fixed everything (eventually) then bond the crap out it and call it done. I appreciate the information, i think i've read every one of your replies a few times on this topic the last few days i'm trying my best not to rehash old stuff and RTFM. I have to re-enforce the inner, coat the 2" core, plus leave some for the trowling, patching things back up.
Found plenty of info on the outer skin, But for the inner do i tab the new inner renforcement to the side of the 'slot'? Over lap the hull shell (both inside and out) by as much as you can, with several inches of internal hull shell contact being ideal. Did have a quick question though I'm a bit confused on as i was going to start getting my ply sized down and sealing with the epoxy.
Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world. This boat had some sentimental value and I probably put more money into then it was worth but it did turn out pretty good.
3 layers of 1810 glass across the full width of the transom and tabbed into the motor stringers. Imagine the stresses it is subjected to as the boat dances on is transom with several hundred HP blasting through. The price difference between polyester and epoxy isn't that much if you use one of the discount epoxies available. There's a huge difference in construction and material quality in marine panels, compared to land based products.
I have determined, from your general experiences in this field and technical postings throughout this forum that any information or recommendations made will be adhered to. The racking loads imposed by the sea or landing on the contact patch (if your lucky) after a brief airborne jaunt from a wave, places surprising stresses in the aft structures of these boats. This will not rot, none of mine have, if the owners don't drill holes in the damn thing, which is the usual problem on transoms. There are differences with strength and wood bond, but it's marginal enough not to worry about it. I normally leave as big a flange on the hull as possible, 2" seems a touch on the small side. I like some of the new core materials but good old wood correctly applyied is the best way to go.
If you are just painting the interior, well the epoxy glue can be smoothed out nicely in the corners to save a lot of fairing work.
I removed the inner liner, sawcut out the inner transom skin, removed all the rotted plywood, then ran out of time and energy.
I think that planer probably would have been good for the flats but nothing did as well as patience, chisels and hammer.


What i sanded off in that section was nothing more than resin but wood did go to the top of course. Come back later, cut the well out, and fix the knees, put it back and even putty the back of the new transom before putting the well back on. You can under do the amount of materials (fabric and goo) and have problems, but it's hard to over do the materials and screw anything up. Been reading up on tabbing and bulkheads and the such, All of this makes me realize it's time consuming to figure out another how to project and I really should limit myself when it comes to projects and let a pro do some stuff (if only the boat value was worth that). My guess is I should tab that inside renforcement , but also alternate tabbing layers also onto the outside shell (on the inside). The rest will be rotted before this goes and i don't intend on going too much further down the rabbit hole on this one. I used Seacast to do the transom and from what I've read is somewhat controversial here on this site. Also a sleeve is a tube that the drive unit bolts go through that keep the core from being compresed.
Vinylester is a much better choice then polyester, but both will not rival the strength of epoxy (and why I use it on transoms). I have reasonable experience in working with and repairing fibreglass, from the manufacture of automotive body kits to complete GT40 replicas, working in both poly and vinylesther. A swim ladder is installed with mild steel lags, a sounder is screwed directly to the boat, and engine change forces new holes to be drilled which aren't bonded and the old ones often filled with bath tub caulk, etc. There would be far fewer transom issues on older boats if the manufactures would get off the polyester band wagon.
I remove the outer skin because it saves time and on many boats, often the inner skin has to be cut up into many pieces (structures and equipment get in the way) to get at the wood, which makes my life more difficult.
I use NIDA core in the transoms of some of the boats that i build but not at the hp or stress you are talking about in this thread. Cut and fit your plywood sheets, glue with epoxy from the fibreglass transom inwards the required layers untill the thickness required is met.
Glass sheave the interior again when finished, using overlaps right into the topsides (after first grinding off any gelcoat back to clear glass laminate).
The hard edge of the ply in the transom area is quite OK as it is a reinforced corner anyhow, and gluing it intimately all around is only a good thing.
Then one dry, you remove the bolts, clean the holes of any wax, and then fill the holes with thickened resin.
After a bit you get a rhythm of how to hold it and take off large chunks, pry, and twist to remove other chunks.
2 bottom stringers look very solid which is odd as they sit the lowest, this indicates to me it came from the transom side of things. But at this point it's just partial things you'd expect of a budget boat this age (aside from the transom) so i'll finish the transom, get my carport built, then tackle this other thing in a month. However I think this is something I'll potentially repeat and I gain some howto with epoxy and biax. However the end result was a transom that I feel will last a lot longer then the wood repair that had been done just three years earlier at a boat repair yard.
A sleeve used in a mounting boss would compress the core layer to a severe stress that you would have a failure in the skin. I had purchased 200 litres of vinylesther for this transom repair but if epoxy is recommended and an advantage, so be it, the last thing I would want to happen is a transom related problem at 100MPH. These are the things that cause issues, not the wood, the lack of maintenance or proper repairs or equipment installations.
Some are seeing the light, but many still don't care about anything, except selling as many boats as possible. Overlaps are to be staggered, first one at least 1 foot into the topsides, others reaching lesser degrees back to the transom.
Set this spinning inside the pilot hole and it will smash out the plywood from between the glass laminate of the transom inner and outer. I have used pressure treated wood before, but it takes a long time to dry it out to the point of use for adhesion, and then sometimes it begins to warp if not pressured in place. Additional structure would have prevented this, but also required much more power for the same performance envelope. Most of the boats that need a transom, have finishes that are shot anyway and I can talk them into a paint job too. It is a good idea to build up the thickness of the ply, rather than using a big chunk in one shot. The screw holes from former equipment, since removed, spent bedding, leaking sole, etc., permits water to enter the hull, drain aft and live against the inside bottom of the transom, where it eventually will get at the ply.
If you put a material that is stiff with one that is flexible, you will have delamination issues.
If it's encapsulated, then it will not matter much, but I've yet to see an encapsulated production job. Check around and you will see that there are a large amount of boat manufacturers using Greenwood Products. Now fill this hole and the void of course with epoxy and glass filler, put some masking tape on the inside when doing this. Allow to set , then drill out the new hole to suit the bolts for the mounting of the motor.



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