Originally Posted by solrac hi guys, I'm a kind of a newbie to al this concerning to design of a 30" sailboat.
Location: lithuania Nice job, although I didn't like the shape of the hull. The best results I've got in modern sailboat hulls is to use 3 x 3 control point surfaces and changing the point weight to get the shape, LCB and prismatic coefficient right. Location: santo domingo, dominican republic Why two set of runners on each side? Location: lithuania I would rewove one of the rear bunks with cocpit loker, it would make sailing a lot easyer, because, you always have a lot of struf on an ordinary cruiser. If you still want to keep those racy sheeting angles you could put the tracks on the cabin top. I'll work on the steering mechanism (don't you think a wheel will reduce too much the cockpit space?) and the engine. Location: lithuania steering weel uses less space in the cocpit than tiller, you need a lot of space to turn it, and if you are sailing with friends free space would probably be hard to find , and mounting autopilot system (which might be very usefull for sailor like you) would be simplier to.
Originally Posted by tamkvaitis steering weel uses less space in the cocpit than tiller, you need a lot of space to turn it, and if you are sailing with friends free space would probably be hard to find , and mounting autopilot system (which might be very usefull for sailor like you) would be simplier to.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Rockford, IL Oh I don't know, the perfect boat for every use most certainly doesn't exist, but there are perfect boats for certain people for their particular uses.
Location: Rockford, IL Btw, with that motorsailor, are you sure it's not a one off?
The Bluejacket 23 MS was built by Collingwood Yachts in, amazingly, Collingwood, Ontario in the mid 80's. The Hart was a real sailing catboat, but that monster sail had 3 sets of reef points that needed use. At any rate, the "Family Cat" is a striking boat with all its curves and reverse transom---what a looker!
I think 13 of the Family Cats were manufactured and then the tooling was sent to Collingwood Yachts where they converted it to a pilothouse motorsailer.
I tried to find Collingwood Yachts on the net to find out how many Bluejackets were made but I had no luck---maybe they are out of business. Location: Canada Perfect is the ultimate insult it means you can do no better. Any who I believe Colingwood yachts is still in business but they may have been bought out or moved. Originally Posted by OrionsSword Perfect is the ultimate insult it means you can do no better. I thought the NorSea 26 the perfect pocket MS until I saw Sean's images of the Bluewater 23 MS. It is not so small, but considering that it is designed as an oceangoing boat and that it is a reasonable fast boat, I find it quite amazing. Sailboat with waves applique design is available in the following sizes: 4x4, 5x7, 6x10, 9x9. Originally Posted by ancient kayaker Bistros: hauling the wet missus into anything afloat is definitely not in the plan, but I was thinking of having a boarding ladder so she could climb back over the transom, while I jeer from midships or perhaps something more appropriate.
I've car topped boats single handed that others thought hard - without any strain or trouble. Right now my boat is hanging from the roof of my garage over the little car (so the van gets full height on the other side). The point of all this is to let you know that with a little thought and napkin engineering you aren't limited to a little tiny boat that you can bench press single handed.
I have several boats hanging from various parts of my garage but there’s no way I could get a van in there!
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada While somewhat stubborn, I can take advice. I built a boat last year (pictured below) that was mostly based on 4mm for sides & decks - and having done so I would consider using the 6mm for the side decks that may be used for seating.
I planned to arrange the controls so I can pilot from forrard to give her lots of leg room. Originally Posted by bistros The 4mm is quite flexible and we ended up putting knee braces every 12 inches or so to make it rigid enough. Originally Posted by ancient kayaker However, your notes on the value of size are well taken and I might stretch my own design to 12 ft since it has a little more beam, depends on how the exact weight comes out; that would give at least 50% more heeling resistance. Originally Posted by ancient kayaker What did you mean by "floor-level daggerboard trunk"?
I'll probably be going through your neighborhood a couple times this summer - my parents live on Lake Huron near Tobermory and we usually try to spend some time in Georgian Bay on the water.
Bill: the dry capsize technique I mean is often used in the PDR - using side tanks large enough to lift and drain the hull as it floats on its side with a bouyant mast.
I have boat plans for a sailing canoe and Rushton's Wee Lassie, and several study plans for skiffs but I've only designed and built canoes so far. I have more than enough 4 mm marine ply on hand and an untouched sheet of 6 mm (just bought a small job lot) plus Baltic Birch ply which might be good for the transom, so I'm good to go once I clean out the garage! Objectives remain as per the first post, but negative comments on the PDRacer were taken to heart especially after watching a video in which one pecked alarmingly as it took wind pressure from aft, almost pitch-poling and coming to a virtual stop.


The advice for bigger boat was also noted but took second place to my wish for car topper this time. Those who know me understand that getting me to build anything “as designed” is like trying to herd cats! Her first sail will be small, a Bermudan spritsail of my own design using Par’s sail plan. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada I did some building of Dace during June but July so far has been a wash due to a variety of things. Here's some pics: sorry I haven't been following up earlier but this lot gets me caught up. Construction notes: the sheer planks are 4 mm marine ply, the developments are straight sided. The cutting table is topped with insulating foam which makes it very easy for cutting out with a hand-held circular saw.
Joints at or below the waterline are made with epoxy, including the stem, transom to sheer joints and bottom. In the last pic the bulkhead can be seen, with a centerpost to support the daggerboard trunk. The bottom and transom are fastened by roundhead steel screws while the epoxy sets: these will be exchanged for countersunk brass ones in the finished boat. Originally Posted by ancient kayaker I did some building of Dace during June but July so far has been a wash due to a variety of things. I'm building a boat for my son right now - the garage has been elevated from it's lowly duties of storing cars and off-season paraphernalia to the lofty role of boatshop. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada A garage can be used for many purposes, the wost thing you can use it for is storing a car, especially in Ottawa. I know Lee Valley Tools well, we have a branch in Toronto - I thought I had died and gone to heaven! Your stringer on the cockpit floor, or chine log as some call them, is exactly what I do between the sheer planks and bottom, except I glue it to the sheers first instead of the bottom. After this very simple flattie I would like to try something a bit more shapely, perhaps a 5-planker or even a round hull using my version of lapstrake mooted in the zipper-seam thread.
I designed a very deep, ballasted inside at high ratio, with a headroom at 4'6", two berth and a enclosed head. All that for a wife who wanted a private head, condition non negotiable, for her to came sailing.
Originally Posted by ancient kayaker I enjoyed your bog; as you wrote we have a lot of things in common.
Originally Posted by ancient kayaker What are the dimensions for your boat's daggerboard? Originally Posted by ancient kayaker Your stringer on the cockpit floor, or chine log as some call them, is exactly what I do between the sheer planks and bottom, except I glue it to the sheers first instead of the bottom.
This will prevent the mainsail to open freely when running, and will add up to more work, which can be a burden when short handed.
From the line drawing of the sections it appears you have some major localised flat spots, hollows and maybe even creases. The rig could lose the runners for your style of sailing, maybe a running backstay for mast bend and a baby stay to stop the mast from pumping. This design uses stering system similar to stering with steering weel it is dificult to see, the ruder is in front of the tiller!
So instead of the Puddle Duck I am going with a small skiff, about the same weight stripped for car-topping, but much better performance and probably similar stability - the same bottom width (4').
I ended up with a concept that looked very like PAR's neat little 10 footer, so I may just go with PAR's design if it suits my building methods as I haven’t done the structural analysis for my design yet. In my design I planned to use side tanks which doubled as torque tubes, large enough so she could be righted virtually dry following a capsize. My canoes get a lot of compliments and interest when I take one out on the water; it isn't difficult, 20% attention to joints, 20% reasonable finish and 60% balanced proportions. She has a parasol, but I will forgo the wind-up gramophone and small guitar that were de rigeur back than! I was planning a small and simple rig, no vang, rudder controlled through a cord led around the gunnels and back through a bow block (a common trick in excursion yachts way back when) and sprit set nice and high for zero head-banging. I generally launch from a sloping beach so I can part the flat, wide transom on the sand during the all-aboard, get yersef comfortable phase, maybe a little ladder over the transom that will serve for re-boarding during solo adventures, and then I can hop in over the bow which will bring the stern out of the mud. The side tanks will also make dandy seats with back support if I make the the inwale fairly deep. My method is ideal for a light skiff hull, and I want to have input into the design but still don't know enough. I have to admit that progress has been severely delayed by health issues, mostly related to my old fart syndrome, but I expect to start building in about a week.
First thing I did when Par’s design package arrived was analyze the lines, to see how much I could simplify the building process, being somewhat lazy. I will have side tanks from transom to the foredeck, at sheer level, which will also function as seats and side decks, providing structural stiffness in what is going to be a light boat.
I will make the sprit boom a double wishbone, similar to those used for sailing boards, but the sail will have 2 layers and the halves of the boom will separate, so I can open it out double-size rigger for downwind, conditions permitting: instant spinnaker! The straight-sided developments make cutting a snap, using an 8' guide customized to my saw.


I cracked a chine log: the repair is visible but it is inside the bouyancy tank so it will not be seen.
I would like to start a blog but I need to find webspace: did your internet provider give you server space?
I use Titebond III only where I can assure a perfectly fitting joint, which is easy when the joint components are laying flat.
I am going to try tarp, I have got some nice silver stuff and there is a source of white tarp on the net - they even supply finished sails. For my 5-plank canoes I also glue logs to the bottom edges, mount the bottom on the stems, and plane the bottom and sheer edges to accept the garboards or bilg planks.
Since I want to built to the cheapest possible by not going wild in size, I opted for a non trailable super heavy very small boat.
I have seen prety nice removable and rotating stering weel systems, so it can be removed or rotated, to minimize place required. I don't know much about the Raider, it seems a hair heavier but less beamy, perhaps that is due to the self-bailing feature.
However, I mostly load my plastic kayaks from the side, due to the shape of the roof-rack on the current van. However, I can have a box on the ground to rest the transom on so it slopes at a more gentle angle, leaving more weight on the roof-rack. As you noted, a raised floor cockpit reduces internal height and is less comfortable in a small boat. However I need to know more about mast step and centerboard trunk construction before proceeding so I will probably acquire one or two more detailed plans. The mast steps are all in the foredeck which is a compromise between two of Par’s accommodation layouts.
I wasn't a boater back then, but I concluded that cars last longer when they are left outside. I think if my boat were intended to stay in the water I would change to epoxy, and would certainly consider a saturation coat. And I would try to move the engine as far aft as posible (I like dashev concept) It would make a lot of space inside.
They are both light, obviously easy to build, probably easy to cartop, and they'll certainly have the legs of the PDR.
I will have 2 rigs, about 40 sq ft for learning and taking out the Missus, if I can thaw her feet out, difficult to capsize with that small a sail but bouyancy tanks and re-boarding provisions just in case. I find if I allow the material to take a natural shape it’s impossible to build ugly. A boat where you are more or less forced to step in well out from the centreline feels a lot less stable than when were the layout enopcurages your first contact to be on the centreline. Clearing the rubbish in the workshop that accumulated from a bathroom renovation is under way. She got her bottom on yesterday and is feeling a lot better now she is decently covered up!
I had a fire in my garage a couple of years ago and during the repairs it was brought up to current code.
I don't use a lot of Titebond III, my current tube is on its third boat - it goes a long way in zero-gap joints. Actualy you should look more on th dashev boats, thay look (I have not sailed any) great sailing boats, with huge amount of comfort.
With an open transom like this it is much easier to access the boat trough the transom from a dinghy or pontoon than with a wheel. Also it would be a good idea to add a temporary transom to my 10 ft canoe, weight it to 60 lb or so, then try loading it on the van to ensure I will be able to car-top the new boat. Materials are 90% on hand; just need some clean pine, a little mahogany trim and a piece of spruce for the mast.
At the same time I crossed some palms with silver and had the doors, insulation and wiring improved. If you transpose the outline of the cabin on to the layout plan you will see that above most of your seating areas you have little or no headroom and no shoulder room or full headroom in what I think is the head.
My boats usually end up lighter than average, I know where I can skim off the odd pound or two. A boat with a transom would be far easier to load as it would stay put while I lean it against the van. And if you have a snugly fitting daggerboard so water ingress is minimal I guess the case might not have to be above the waterline when the boat is swamped. It's now a nice workshop, but if I open the overhead door it quickly gets infested with local kids who are fascinated by the boatbuilding process. I'm thinking that a 15 ft boat is going to need 2 to cartop, whereas I can easily manage the PDR on my own. My son has no interest in boats at all, on the other hand, my daughter can be talked into anything!



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