I feel confident in my abilities with the S&G technique but am willing to learn other techniques. I also considered the Northeaster Dory by Chesapeake Light Craft but am unsure if it would meet my needs. The GIS is a great boat but might be far more of a performance sailboat than you want for learning, and not stable enough to pull the stick while out on the water. There are a number of different styles of Dories - the originals, all hard chined, were not designed for sailing, and were least tender (tippy) only when they had a few hundred pounds of fish on the bottom.
I think most of the boats you mention would fit your needs, including Bolger's Gypsy (with a shorter sail rig).
Never seen a Phoenix III in the flesh, but drawings, fotos, and reports suggest that she'd serve your purpose, and she's quite lovely into the bargain.
The dorys I'd only look at seriously if you normally carry a goodly weight of gear and supplies. Another Welsford design to consider is Walkabout, specially designed for camp cruising the Maine coast.
I have sailed and rowed along with Steve Chambers in his Michalak Wooboto, and it works fairly well under both oar and sail. The problem is I think that the cost of the rigging and sails, plus your utilization of the vessel (the faster you can go out and come back means the better the yield for your investment) because a question of economics. In my own example of the sail assisted freighter, I do not the think the fuel savings would make up for the extra investment and yearly maintenance costs.
For the most parts, since the invention of efficient internal combustion engines, sailing vessels have become sport or recreation. I also know of a guy that ships organic produce around Puget Sound with three sailing ships.
I suspect that at best, you would end up with an expensive recreation sailing yacht that you reduce some of your operating costs by being able to use it to catch and haul commercial cargo.
One good thing about seasonal work is you don't have to 'quit your day job' to explore other things. In order to have fun sailing on the ocean, most people have to work for years, then after some time sailing, work for years again. The only design I was commenting on was the Hartog one - as that was the only one for which displacement was given. So no need to prove that your hold and Hartog's hold are spacious enough to carry 40 tonnes of fish with various stowage factors.
As stated in my original post, I have no intention of getting into an argument about whether or not this will give a hull that will sail well or safely.
And this was the only reason for my posting the data I did - to give some context by means of hull dimensions and carrying capacity in TONS for some known craft. From experience many fishermen and other seafarers are pretty good judges of what deadweight (consumables and cargo) a vessel of given style and dimensions will carry safely (and not so safely).

Since the variable load here appears to be so high relative to the displacement perhaps water ballast could have a role in minimising the full load displacement - making the boat more of a constant-draught machine. So you catch fish during the fishing season for income, and than you refit, and have tourists pay you to take them sailing during the tourist season. I think you have to carefully analyze the viablity of each model separately, and see how much more it costs to operate since it will not be optimized for either use. Yes, we could go back to the turn of the century and find fishing boats that are narrower, deeper, and have lower freeboard. If we look at recent build fishing vessels in the 60-65' length range, typical beam is 22', fuel 35,000 litres, hold capacity up to 90 cubic metres, and giant ballast water tanks under the hold and in the stern quarters (above lightship WL).
Location: Juneau, Alaska You mentioned the Skookum 53, here is a Skookum 47 as a fishing boat, and that same hull as a motor sailer.
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To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. I can always find a protected place to fish but in my powerboat days I used to get surprised regularly on lakes like Sam Rayburn, when I left the protected cove and found the main lake churned by 20 to 30 Kt winds. His June Bug is actually a smaller boat, though easier (due to a cruder hull shape) to build. I'm betting that the Grapevine or White Rock sailing clubs still have learn-to-sail programs every summer. I've stepped and unstepped the mast while afloat, but it can get a bit tiddly way up there at the skinny, pointy end.
It has a ton of initial stability (which is very good for fishing), and a reasonable amount of room. Michalak has many loyal fans, but I find many of his boats awkward looking - including this one.
They tend to be quite tipsy when lightly loaded, then settle down into rock solid when weight is added.
As I mentioned I am very naive about what is required for sailing, but have a keen desire to learn.
Dynamite Payson is Bolger box boats - the most likely of which I suspect you've already stumbled across in the Junebug. It is stiff as a church, easy under oars, and the sprit brails quickly when you get to the fishing hole. I was not referring to hold VOLUME as the issue - but the WEIGHT carrying capacity of the hull.
If I understand correctly you estimate half of the load to be about 35t so at full load the vessel would presumably displace near 100t (fishing vessels not likely to have full fish and fuel at same time).

The examples I gave were specifcally chosen as real, successful harsh environment motor fishing vessels - but with a distinct sailing lineage - proven to be capable of being sailed (albeit not as well as their ancestors).
We can confidently say that a 60ft barge which can carry 40t or more deadweight is feasible. You're now following fishing boat plans in your eBay feed.You'll receive email alerts for new listings. This boat serves me well for fishing and camping on rivers and protected areas on some of our lakes. I was in the Navy and know this is nothing to what one can experience on big water but I still would like to have enough boat to feel confident I can cross the lake when neeeded. Likely the CLC Northeaster Dory kit would be your easiest path to a decent sailing dory - though pulling the rig on the water, and the motor mounting, might be issues.
I'll put my vote in for Bolger's Thomaston Galley as being designed almost exactly to your specs. I found my first project was a very rewarding endeavor that keeps paying dividends every time I carry her out.
Her hold may have been able to accommodate 40t of fish, but I don't think I would like to be on her at the time (with her 54t nominal displacement hull).
My point was simply WEIGHT carrying capacity, where 20t of bananas has the same effect as 20t of diamonds located at the same CG. On more or less the same length that means a considerably fuller hull than Patanela (45t), Hartog's 56t design or indeed the 61ft (50t) MFV whose data I posted above. The complicating factor in this case is the desire to sail, and the not unrelated weight of ballast which has to be carried around - reducing the revenue earning deadweight capacity. I was considering a dory but was wondering if it would be difficult to maintain position with cross winds. It's a great way to get on the water, make some connections, and to learn a few things, too.
I am leaning towards a non-S&G design to increase my knowlege for an even more ambitious project in the future. I have seen the following designs reccomended on this forum and wonder if one of these would suit my needs. They could hire a crew to fish her, they just have to be onboard during the fishing, and the capacity for the boat wouldnt have to be that high to make good money, leaving lots of room for yacht style interior.
These boats would not be as easy to build as a Goat Island Skiff, but would be more rugged and stable.

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