This gravy boat uses only 2 sheets of plywood The file includes a The 25 yr old file cabinet has been reborn to PDF only the old email address is wrong. Contact us with errors, copyright information, problems or suggestions to our plans or DIY info. I can't find a picture of it anywhere online, but it seems like something that would be right in line with what I'm looking for. Any feedback (or better suggestions) on either of these three designs based on what I want to do with the boat? Just a personal bias, but I believe strip built can be reasonably quickly done if you work out a plan. You are essentially having to build a top deck on the two pontoons, plus all the connections to the living space, when in a catamaran, you at least get some storage as the cabin and deck extend up.
Likewise, most pontoons are made of pre-shaped tubes, These create buoyancy issues the more they are submerged, as you get, as they get narrower in section when the waterline exceeds the widest point. Pontoons are OK when you need to dissemble the craft for storage perhaps, or you have been given free steel tubes, but it wouldn't be the starting point for a new build.
When you design a boat ignoring all the basic needs of the material and the boat you will get something you don't want. On the other hand, lots of people talk about how square sectioned cat hulls are not very much increased resistance. Most catamarans that I would care to consider do have a weight limitation for their length. 300# for the hulls and crossbeams (if you can use them), 800# for people (4*200# as an assumption), 400# of stuff, and that leaves 500# for deck and motor.
Small boats are always asked to carry more gear than they should, so its often a better decision to go monohull if you have fishing gear, people etc that need carrying. But this usage also makes secondhand Tornado hulls and gear very cheap, as they lose their competitive edge long before they lose their seaworthiness. If you can get cheap secondhand hulls, I also think a useful work boat could be developed.
Once again though, if you have to build from scratch, the monohull will provide a better carry to cash ratio.
Nice slam with the "tornado's lose their competitive edge" but what did that have to do with anything? And yes, I knew they started as plywood - I had to repair one in Darwin after Cyclone Tracy damaged it. The reason all small cats 'lose their competitve edge" and you see them for sale only after 3 or 4 years ( and I have bought 4 in my time ) is that the extra weight from repairing dings, damaged gear ( rudders and daggerboards where applicable ) make it cheaper and easier ( and I suspect skipper phsychology plays a part in it ) to start from new.
Originally Posted by upchurchmr So hull speed is always an interesting thing for monohulls (little relevance for catamarans, unless they are too portly) I dont think you still 'get' my point. If you have two boats that have to carry the same cargo weight, a well designed monohull will require less material to build the hull and less power to push it to its hull speed.
You will need to get over the image long skinny hull form of cats versus widebodied monhulls, that have it a higher hull speed. I refer to the powered 30 ft long canoes of large river systems that can get over 30 knots from a 20hp outboard. Likewise - rowing shells, the epitome of hullform efficiency, are faster than multihull configuration where you make two smaller hulls large enough to support the rower. Originally Posted by upchurchmr Are you still going to compare a Steel catamaran to a plywood monohull?
Citing the boats Rick Willoughby is talking about is rather far from the OP's discussion, since they are very extreme, and human powered and don't apply. Much as I liked MoePorter's suggestion of a freighter canoe, yet again you are not discussing something comparable to a 16' boat the OP suggested when you discuss a 30' freighter. I don't think a rowing shell could carry 4 people, a motor, and their equipment, in any acceptable form. Your discussion is to take some unrelated example and make an unrelated point, all while assuming limitations that probably would not be desirable. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Precut wooden boat construction kits for conventional framed plywood, stitch & glue plywood and cedar strip models. Plans with full-size patterns for framed plywood, lapstrake, stitch & glue plywood, cedar strip, canvas covered and cold molded models. Paddlinglight is publishing a series of digitised plans for building cedar strip versions of well known traditional kayaks and canoes.

Italians race development class of boats limited only by sail area and length limited by the standard (in Italy) 3.1m sheet of ply. Free plans for a very simple 14ft stitch and glue skiff drawn by myself (Gavin Atkin) and named after my mother. Free plans for a very simple 12ft stitch and glue skiff drawn by myself (Gavin Atkin) and named after my daughter, Ella.
An easy to build light-weight 15ft 6in rower suitable for use on lakes and rivers, perhaps for exercise rowing but also usable for picnics on the river, fishing and the rest.
Plans for two boats - one extraordinarily beautiful, the other an extraordinarily eccentric racer.
A nicely-built example of my Cinderella canoe, adapted for rowing with some neat outriggers made from ply.
Free designs for a very sweet ply camp-cruiser for one, or a cat-rigged sailing dinghy for more. Not really about free boat designs - though there might be some later - but a new blog about boat restoratons, traditional boatbuilding, and traditionally-derived boats. Try our customised Google search designed to eliminated all the irrelevant junk you sometimes get! A little open-canoe for paddle-savvy kids who love the water, and aren't nervous in a tippy boat!
I like this one from an old American magazine - built with some of the right period details, it could be a real head-turner. Square Metre Sharpie - one of the more obvious European developments from the North American sharpie working boats. Timbre corpse the most park material for the construction of boats under xv metres in length.
Worth, Tx, USA I really like the freighter canoe over the Instant ugly boats. Of course most people think you need some freeboard, which the upper half of the tube provides, while also providing the bending stiffness required to be out in the waves. Square crosssection is really pretty easy with plywood, or even strip planked, even when you taper the ends and put some rocker in the boat.
A well designed monohull will carry more load with less resistance than any two hulled craft. This is the point at which you can't go faster without a huge increase in power, or starting to plane (which requires a large power to begin with). The website's in Italian, but has lots of pictures and best of all one of the builders and racers has published plans for their boat - and it's a lot like a large sailing Mouse, such as the Eek. Most are in the UK, but we will include some US material, not least because the author is an enthusiast for American boat types. Anyone who designs a boat to be loaded past the max width in the water deserves what he gets. I guess we would have to compare the exact material list with one of the 16 ft monohull box boats. It's been going on for years apparently, but I've only just learned about it from Frank Baldry of the UK HBBR. For OffCenterHarbor we are not restricting the resulting PDF so members can download and print atomic number 85 leave but and Anne Bray's sauceboat Plans at occult Seaport 1 never Simple woods sauceboat. As always, I've included a .hul file for those who wish to take a look at the hydrostatics, or to develop their own version. Also, there is a discussion group for builders and users of the Mouse family, and for those interested in the designs at Mouse Boats.
I think this is still the first design of this kind available freely over the Web. The drawings are zipped and in .dxf format, and show various views including the developed panels - if you fancy the real thing, as I do, why not begin by making a small model?
Let me know if you're interested in sail plans and modifications for camp cruising, as I believe this hull is just about powerful enough for a small cruising sail plan, and I've got some on the drawing board. It would have to be small, as any boat that rows as well as sails is a compromise one way or the other.
Incidentally, I've called it a trow because it's form is based very loosely on a traditional British flat-bottomed type, the Fleet trow - however, the old boats were heavily built, and had no rocker. Also look out for the on-line books he's in the process of putting up - I think the link will be from his Cheap Pages.
Andy has put up the design as a backdrop; save the image, and you have the design.

He says the boat works pretty well in most conditions, but sometimes makes him feel seasick in in waves and a light wind.  Sampans Fancy a real challenge? Just start off by ignoring the first sentence of the second set of instructions. I've paddled one of these things, and I can tell you that there's nothing like the suicidal balance of these little boats. It's interesting that although thought of a primarily Welsh and Irish in origin, these craft were - maybe still are - launched from both the English and Welsh sides of the lovely river Wye, and I understand there's an English professional soccer team that uses one as a mascot. Take a look and see what you think - my guess is that some people may build this astonishing little craft as a very low-cost motor-sailing cruiser.
From a book about converting lifeboats into yachts, I gather that traditional sailing lifeboats were not normally expected to sail upwind - I wonder how this one would do against the wind?
If you aren't one of the lucky people who have their own ShopBot, my hunch is that the ShopBot's suppliers may be able to put you in touch with someone who has one and is willing to cut out you sheet material for a reasonable fee. As a Brit, I'm delighted to be able to publish something that originated in my own country for once! You will have to contact the author to receive details of how to download the plans. Many are closely based on traditional types, including rare traditional hard-chine UK types, and a few from his own fevered imagination. There are links to pages where Hulls can be downloaded on the drawings page, and also in the Software section below. Some people think it's a lot cuter than an Optimist, and it's probably close to being the perfect two-sheet dink.
There are also links to designs for a folding kayak, and a conventional kayak, and an excellent treatise on how to do tack and tape boatbuilding. The designer says it performs well, but may be a little tricky in the building.
Hans, an experienced canoeist and enthusiastic woodworker, says it works well, is stable and tracks well. Hans designed the Marak using Gregg Carlson's Hulls program (see below for much more on this software).
But I'm still rather torn about the issue: how do you feel about people who hide perfectly good designs away where no-one can find them or use them? I hope Mr Beavis, Mr Sleightholme, and their publishers of twenty-odd years ago won't mind too much.
I really liked this and used it for my top-of-the-page logo, and re-drew it a little longer and beamier using CAD for the generation of a century later. I gather Munroe once told his friend and student Vincent Gilpin that he would 'cheerfully sit up all night to cut out one superfluous rope from a sail plan', and from these drawings you can see that he meant it. Those that have been designed are intended mainly as a piece of fun and shouldn't be taken too seriously.
I'm sure the one-sheet design brief is impossible - but if you're going to tinker with something, it might as well be as cheap as chips. This is the now famous Herb McLeod One-Sheet Skiff - read the 'Big guy goes frogging' link for a smile. I haven't the slightest idea what he does with the frogs, but I'm sure my mother would be shocked if she knew about it.
Another single-sheeter drawn by myself is available only as a series of coordinates that you have to plot on the plywood sheet.
Use a batten - a thin, straight and flexible piece of wood - to join the lines in smooth, fair curves. Mark them and cut them out and after that it's a straightforward tack-and-tape job with a certain amount of framing. To me, it's a more useful and serious looking one-sheeter than I thought possible, and should really be thought of as a kind of coracle rather than as an attempt at a one-sheet skiff, and it might even be useful as a tiny tender. You could work entirely from the gifs and the coordinates file without too much work - I'd start by squaring-off the ply material and then plotting the corrdinates. If you build this boat, please let me know and, if at all possible, do please send me pictures of the finished craft in and out of the water, and perhaps a few notes about what you use it for.

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