This is the page I’ll use to consolidate information about my new design for a simple daysailer cat, a boat that should be quick and cheap to build, and simple and fun to sail. That's the closest I've been able to find, and I was thinking something along the lines of that, I like the solid construction, with no trampoline, but I know nothing of boat construction and I don't know how much I can tweak without ruining the boat. Ideally, I would like a 14' cat, with a deck from bow to stern, with a small cabin section on the bow, mini keels, (or no keels, but that's likely far beyond my skillset at this point) and if possible some storage in the hulls.
Essentially, a CLC pocket ship esque design, dropped on a multi hull platform, is this possible, or a pipe dream? Location: New Orleans I think you are trying to squeeze way too much boat into your designe length.
Location: Duluth, Minnesota If you want a small cabin you may want to go a little bigger, a Jarcat or one of K designs small cats.
Location: nation of Ohio Duckworks had an article about a Canadian who built a 16' bi-rig (one in each hull) catamaran. However, cats are easier to wrestle to the water, and two kayaks can be broken into separate craft. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: USA The rig is set up for it, but I can assure you there will be no trapezing.
Originally Posted by rayaldridge I could certainly be wrong, but I don't think this is correct. If you're anything like a normal sailor, You will be loading up the rig, sheeted in tight long passed 8knts of wind since your boat will be wider and perhaps heavier. Location: Pacific NW North America If you run a wire to the masthead you will need some kind of running backstay for it. Location: USA It's true that wider means more heeling resistance, but not more compression. Truthfully, the boat started out as an answer to Jim Brown's very clever new line of trailerable tris. Originally Posted by rayaldridge It's true that wider means more heeling resistance, but not more compression.
BTW: Chute head block is often set near midpoint between main hound attachment point and mast head. Location: Pacific NW North America Sounds like additional stays or running backs could let you put the main where it is most efficient rather than using the mainsheet as the running back.
Location: Pacific NW North America In all fairness with a 8ft beam beachcat adding 2 guys on trapezes doesn't that = the righting moment and stress of at least 12feet of beam?
Originally Posted by cavalier mk2 In all fairness with a 8ft beam beachcat adding 2 guys on trapezes doesn't that = the righting moment and stress of at least 12feet of beam? What does change with increasing the beam is wire tensions which translates to mast bending loads. Funny thing is, I am contemplating going from a 16'BOA to 18' on a 28 foot cat I plan to build. Location: Pacific NW North America Which ought to use up the safety margin. I feel confident in my abilities with the S&G technique but am willing to learn other techniques. I also considered the Northeaster Dory by Chesapeake Light Craft but am unsure if it would meet my needs.
The GIS is a great boat but might be far more of a performance sailboat than you want for learning, and not stable enough to pull the stick while out on the water.
There are a number of different styles of Dories - the originals, all hard chined, were not designed for sailing, and were least tender (tippy) only when they had a few hundred pounds of fish on the bottom.
I think most of the boats you mention would fit your needs, including Bolger's Gypsy (with a shorter sail rig). Never seen a Phoenix III in the flesh, but drawings, fotos, and reports suggest that she'd serve your purpose, and she's quite lovely into the bargain.
The dorys I'd only look at seriously if you normally carry a goodly weight of gear and supplies. Another Welsford design to consider is Walkabout, specially designed for camp cruising the Maine coast. I have sailed and rowed along with Steve Chambers in his Michalak Wooboto, and it works fairly well under both oar and sail. Location: Gold Coast Australia Assymetric Cat Hulls Are there any significant gains to be had by having assymetric hulls?
Location: Australia They were good Assymetric cats were the start of all this cat business. Cats are not usually designed this way today - lack of interior room, hard access into hulls, poor tacking ability, low load carrying ability, lack of transom steps, lack of stern volume for weight to take dinghy, aft deck etc all dictate a different shape.
Location: TO The asymmetry in this case is the use of the hull as foil instead of a board, rather than the issue of using one board vs 2.


It is true that older boats had this feature, but back then the alternative was rarely a daggerboard, and as a result all multis had relatively compromised performance. I asked Kohler about the asymmetric hull, and his response was that he was influenced by Choy, who is certainly a major figure. I also asked about the flat bottoms because I had designed a boat with flat bottoms that slammed at anchor.
Location: TO The thing that worried me about asymmetric hulls and vortex boards (your new inquiry), is that to anyone who has been around for a while, these are not new ideas. Location: USA Bernd Kohler used horizontal foils on his personal boat for years and reports that the boat was close-winded and fast. The American designer of small cruising boats, Matt Layden, has used horizontal foils to excellent effect.
While it is true that Wharram builders were for a time enamored of these foils, it may be that Wharram's hull forms were not really suitable for this approach. People are easily pleased with their own creations which is at the one time a good argument for designing more of one's own boats, and looking for more critical sources of info. I'm a member of the KD Yahoo group, but it doesn't seem too tough a crowd like most single purpose groups. As I understand it the point to these endplates is mostly that they hold whatever water pressure is in position, in place. I forgot to mention another designer who at least once used asymmetric hulls on a cat - Chris White.
Location: sydney the point of asymmetric hulls is to generate lift to windward by flying the weather hull. Location: USA I should also say that when I was drawing Slider, I originally intended to experiment with horizontal foils. Finally, I don't think that a completely plausible explanation for why these foils work really exists. I'd be willing to bet that there have been many discreet forays into the multihull potential since Herreshoff. It took a different economic time in history to dislodge the conventional wisdom enough to get things rolling. Woody Brown stands as a guy with the right kind of creative personal drive, the right collection of experiences and knowledge and the pure status as a Waterman who simply loved the sea and the wind and what he might be able to do with them together. Many of the compromises I've chosen have to do with the goal of allowing the boat to be folded with the rig in place, to allow the use of narrow slips and dry sailing. Originally Posted by outside the box There is a hard deck woods wizard for sale in Australia with Alloy beams.
Location: Auckland, New Zealand Wow thats such a different boat without the cuddy. A 14' cat just isn't going to have enough load capacity to have much of anything in the cabin department. When we run a chute on beach cats, we generaly have the main not far off centered on the traveller and sheeted prettty good. Hell, if I was ready to part with it, I would sell Ray my Supercat 20 rig and there wouldn't be any question of strength issues. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. I can always find a protected place to fish but in my powerboat days I used to get surprised regularly on lakes like Sam Rayburn, when I left the protected cove and found the main lake churned by 20 to 30 Kt winds. His June Bug is actually a smaller boat, though easier (due to a cruder hull shape) to build. I'm betting that the Grapevine or White Rock sailing clubs still have learn-to-sail programs every summer. I've stepped and unstepped the mast while afloat, but it can get a bit tiddly way up there at the skinny, pointy end.
It has a ton of initial stability (which is very good for fishing), and a reasonable amount of room. Michalak has many loyal fans, but I find many of his boats awkward looking - including this one. They tend to be quite tipsy when lightly loaded, then settle down into rock solid when weight is added. As I mentioned I am very naive about what is required for sailing, but have a keen desire to learn.
Dynamite Payson is Bolger box boats - the most likely of which I suspect you've already stumbled across in the Junebug.
It is stiff as a church, easy under oars, and the sprit brails quickly when you get to the fishing hole. Is there anyone out there in multihull land who has built or knows of anyone who has built and sailed one of these designs and, the biggy are assymetric hulls fast?
Don't get me wrong - my modern 38 footer could not keep up the the 1957 design Aikane but she is easier to live on.


Even if you can find one, the weight and windage is going to kill any performance gain over just building a monohull. I ran masthead running backs on my fractional rigged uldb for the asymmetric chute and it worked great. I'd try putting the chain plate even with the back edge of the cabin for a better angle, your main should still ease way out but if you draw the apparent wind forward it won't get all the way out! This boat serves me well for fishing and camping on rivers and protected areas on some of our lakes. I was in the Navy and know this is nothing to what one can experience on big water but I still would like to have enough boat to feel confident I can cross the lake when neeeded. Likely the CLC Northeaster Dory kit would be your easiest path to a decent sailing dory - though pulling the rig on the water, and the motor mounting, might be issues.
I'll put my vote in for Bolger's Thomaston Galley as being designed almost exactly to your specs. I found my first project was a very rewarding endeavor that keeps paying dividends every time I carry her out. Yes Kohlers style of hulls are very narrow with virtually no interior space, but do they work?
I am looking to start a new boat project, I've built a few stitch and glue boats, started off with a PDR a few years ago, a few stitch and glue kayaks, and last summer just for kicks a 4' version of the PDR. A wire luff light genoa can make a good cheap screacher if you don't need the masthead forestay, keep the running backs though so you don't have to watch the upper mast bend while flying it. It is a 23 ft tri that used Hobie 16 rig and the hulls for amas.How about coring the mast by inserting a web.
I was considering a dory but was wondering if it would be difficult to maintain position with cross winds.
It's a great way to get on the water, make some connections, and to learn a few things, too. I am leaning towards a non-S&G design to increase my knowlege for an even more ambitious project in the future. This time around I'm looking at something more practical, and have been itching to build a catamaran for years, its what I learned to sail on, and grew up around. My point is, ALL other loads on the mast will be increased, Column loading is minimal and not the problem. For what ever it is worth, I have never seen a proper nicro press slip, the wire always fails right in the top of the press.
I have seen the following designs reccomended on this forum and wonder if one of these would suit my needs.
I've been looking around lots at plans for pocket cruisers, something we could do some coastal crusing on, with a small cabin for weekend trips, and something to explore the island on.
What would you think about tapering a goose hull design (12' version of the PDR) to a little bit more efficient hull shape? I have read that the double presses were done to satisfy the attorneys, but there is a bit of practice necessary to do a nicro press correctly. To be truthful I think multis went backwards heaps when Piver then took them down the simple and cheap route - took decades to get back.
I am leaning more towards a catamaran for that reason as well, there are thousands of hidden beaches to land on and nothing beats a cat for that.
Taper the bow down to 3' wide ish, as well as the stern, with a little bit more of an angle to the lower transom? There must be a good safety margin on most of the older beach cat masts, they never seemed to break from sailing loads but a lot of booms and wires did break.
I've looked around, and havent had any luck finding plans for a pocket cruiser cat, only clones of racing cats. Again, I know nothing about boat design, and no idea how much small tweaks will effect the overall design. Let's take your example, and now figure out the loads needed to fly a hull You can see what happens.
These boats would not be as easy to build as a Goat Island Skiff, but would be more rugged and stable.
One of my kayaks got a Viking funeral, I'd rather not have the same thing happen on a much larger project.
The 5.2 Nacras are one of the lightest of the older beach cats but I think their mast section was about the same as the others, and I think it will work fine for a basic rig, but if you are planing on adding masthead reachers and overlapping jibs, you will probably need a stronger mast.



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