4 or 5 have been built and a few stretched versions are on the verge.This is the original at 12 ft long and 4 ft wide.
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada If you click on user CP you can see if anyone has docked you points.
12'x 4' though it would be a lot more stable at 5' or better in beam, though it's efficiency will drop quickly. This shape will handle chop and passing powerboat wakes much better then the floating shoe boxes others seem to enjoy. The design above will easily out perform any of the shanty boat, box boat or square micro cruiser thingies.
Having said that i can once again assure you that you dont want to go that fast in a 12' x 4' (4m x 1.2m) boat.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. But the flat-bottom skiffs tend to porpoise and pound, and I might occasionally tow a skier or want to cruise sort of fast, while a 40' deadrise is a bit much for me. So, I have been looking for shoal draft, chop handling, and ability to cruise comfortably on plane. Then I started drawing and -surprise- same up with a 20ft skiff (is there a prize for the billionth design?). I realize it might not perform better than other S+G designs (at best) but to me the look is better, with a couple extra panels. Location: maine Regardless of what she'll do motoring, I saw nothing in the lines to prevent sailing rather fast with the right rig. Location: Pontevedra, Spain You'll have to keep that forefoot out of the water when planning, or it may induce directional instability, in my opinion.
I have only crude guesses about trim under power at this stage, but with an outboard, it should not be hard to have the bow trim up.
Now all I have to do is turn the aft stations to true monohedron and I would have something I could buy on any street corner-the homogenized skiff! Location: Sydney I think your second design looks much better - no need for that pointed forefoot in the first one, and that wedge did look like the drag would outweight the benefits. Location: Virginia, US The transom is not warped as you can see from the (unfaired) views here. BWD View Public Profile View BWD's Gallery Find all posts by BWD « >small jet boat design help? Location: Croatia On a Wayfarer you can stand on the gunwhale and it won't tip over. I have to agree with Bistros - don't look at anything less than 14ft if you want enough space to take you both in comfort.
Actually PDRacer was one of the first pages I researched, and thought it is more of a boat than a Kayak, so headed away to find Kayak designs! Originally Posted by PAR but still only a child a mother could love in the chick magnet department, no matter how much bright mahogany trim you install. You will like these pics I got today (yes TODAY) from the philippines where a couple have been built.
If I was an advertising type I might suggest that this was a common risk for all PDRacer owners. The Goat Island Skiff and the 14' Raid boat look like great candidates - big enough to comfortable fit two. Although you want a boat that basically can't capsize, you have to plan for the worst and assume it could happen. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Matoi, I will take great care to ensure the missus doesn't see THAT site until after she has enjoyed a relaxed, leisurely trip around a really small lake!
Bistros: hauling the wet missus into anything afloat is definitely not in the plan, but I was thinking of having a boarding ladder so she could climb back over the transom, while I jeer from midships or perhaps something more appropriate.
Location: Eustis, FL They're not that young, you're just old enough to think they are.
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Par, the RYD-8.4 looks very suited for my purpose, what does it weigh?
As an aside, I notice that, on many Gunter rigs, the boom and gaff are similar in length, and I would assume in section too.
Location: Eustis, FL Less then 100 pounds with full exterior 'glass sheathing and rig. I'd say there are quite a few candidates among the designs of Paul Fisher (Selway-Fisher) and Gavin Atkins. Not sure what shape you are referring to, it is just a little yacht tender, to putter around in with a tiny outboard. Its not one thing or another!!, take the bits out of the middle of the hulls you have a common cat !!!


I made tunnels for a long time and cant see anything that going to set the market alight !! If you make a prototype and do some testing make that thing completely detachable and see the differance with and without and reduced in size etc etc . Like i already said its just another cat in the crowd so when they all sitting at the marina how does one find it amongst the hundreds of others ?? The shear line being a flat straight line as a detail line and will make it look like a shoe box . Laught as much as you want women have colour more sense in there little finger than any man has in his whole body . Location: London, UK Small steel boat Hi, I have a number of pieces of steel salvaged from a houseboat remodelling job I did. This boat is biger than 12 feet, but You can have problems with wight if You want exactly 12 feet.
Location: uk thank you for everyones help i finally decided on building a 15ft skiff as it does what i need. I'm a bit of a broken record about about this site, but it offers a free look at complete plans for some old designs. Location: Florida come on Oz, skip the plywood, you've worked in real wood, and are familiar with it, and probably enjoy and appreciate it.
Location: Eustis, FL That's traditional file planking and something I'm very familiar with, but it's heavy, has many dozens of potential leak points and is difficult to fair.
Location: Florida lol, better just to walk along the bank then instead of getting into a plywood boat! Originally Posted by p_smith come on Oz, skip the plywood, you've worked in real wood, and are familiar with it, and probably enjoy and appreciate it. But if he's looking for a practical, easier-built and more watertight boat, methods and materials have come a ways in the last hundred years or so. Location: Eustis, FL He can install skids and bottom strakes to protect the planking. Hi Thought some of you might me interested in my latest project sketches.(full size versions can be seen by clicking on the images)I am designing a fiberglass sports cruiser boat for my final semester project.
I don't want to dwell on the lack of fundamental skills but instead give you a decent roadmap of how to design a boat. The external dimensions are being set by the legal towing dimensions locally, although its possible to get permits to exceed them I was hoping to make my design work within them. I understand your dimensional constraints, it's always something that has to be dealt with in this size of boat. You would have to reshape the bottom which would preclude planing with a motor so you would be stuck maxing out at about 5 or 6 mph. It looks like a boat, it has full standing headroom, requires very modest power and will leave a clean, unmolested wake.
You will soon see that you want to cruise comfortably with sitting head room under the cabin roof to escape the sun. Maybe needs a touch more flare -tough issue for me ( - I'm from Va but went to school in NC ). So I was thinking originally if warped it might run flat enough to be good if I stay out of nastier waves. And if your better half still feels unsafe, you can install a steel centerplate making it even more stable.
Is it practical, if becalmed, to drop the rig and use the boom and gaff as oars, with a clip-on blade? Look around you !!,look in a cloths shop for men its drab and dead looking and not exciting at all !!,then look in any womens ware shops theres colour!
If you hook up a gas engine to this type of bottom, it will leak like a bottomless bucket (file planking doesn't tolerate vibration or wracking).
The primary elements of the brief are to maximize deck and cabin space while keeping the boat towable. Cheers for the replies!I would personally be a bit careful with this, are your external dimensions driving the overall design or is there some flexibility in regards to dimensions due to the interior requirements (toilet, cabin, etc)?
Wow thanks for taking the time for the long post Charlie!!I started off using an underlay to determine sizing but I gradually extended further and further from those dimensions.To be honest I didn't know how far I could push them before they became ridiculous, I guess I found that point. I like the near-plumb stem, so kept that in spite of the lightness of the boat, since I'm not looking to go in big water. Hoping it might run 20-25kts with a 70hp OB, cut small steep chop easily off plane, and if lucky run comfortably at 15 or so.
I don't know much about the Raider, it seems a hair heavier but less beamy, perhaps that is due to the self-bailing feature. These guys are throwing so much good stuff at me that I will have to go through a major exercise just making up my mind which boat to build.


DragonFly is 16', fractionally rigged Bermudian and fast, though fairly stable as far as performance dinghies go. The software packages now available can make some pretty pictures of boats, but it doesn't tell you if the shapes you've selected are well suited to your needs.
I have placed the cabin entry at the rear center of the boat because I believe I can fit the two smallest sterndrives required for the axius system on either side of the entry.
I did a pile of rough sketches and measurements and I believed the scale was correct but now I doubting it. To me it seems that most heights of boats would be close to half of what your suggesting, which may explain your proportions, is there a functional need for this height? There is a high likelihood that I used one of your designs as an underlay, The boats closest to what I was aiming for were all made by Brunswick, the Bayliner 285, Maxum 2700 and the Searay 260 and I used the bayliner 285 as my initial underlay. Say if you were looking at her from the side, she would look like her bow is flat (like your design) but on my design, her bow come to an edge and you can see that looking from the top.
It's a fine arrangement if you're needs require the few things they actual offer, but your needs aren't as suited to a mud motor as you might think. Feel over my head trying to integrate elemants here, but grateful for any constructive feedback. I would round the forefoot a bit, but easier to do in reality than in CAD, so it shows sharp in renderings. I managed to capsize my W before I learnt how to gybe properly, and my girlfriend did become less enthusiastic about sailing in a dinghy. They are both light, obviously easy to build, probably easy to cartop, and they'll certainly have the legs of the PDR. Sounds like the sort of feature a cheap ready made boat might have, and reduces the on-board clutter. It's the material that will keep you socks dry and generally is some of the best on the boat, if professionally built. Considering the hundreds of designs available for a boat in this size range, you're so much better off, just buying a set of plans and following the engineering in them. The height of the boat sketch not including the canopy is roughly the max height of the canopy on the bayliner. Lightly loaded and hiking out, you can get some performance out of her, but she's really just a tender, but a stable and easy to build one. I'd be surprised if this boat had performance advantages that the comparable 20-odd year old boat I provided a link to earlier, did not.
If you want a traditional build with antique building methods, use the file plank system, but if you don't want to fuss with the hull after it's built, use plywood.
I thought I would have some flexability with the boats height because of the weight of two sterndrives (roughly 1 tonne) down low. Are running characteristics the same as trim?Should the center of gravity be over the center of a boat's planing surface or near the center of the hull?I was planning on moving from this point and designing the interior while modeling up the hull but its obvious that the dimensions and layout of this are not workable atm.
My boats usually end up lighter than average, I know where I can skim off the odd pound or two. I will def do a set of package drawings before continuing and review how the hull shape will work from there. Thanks for the links yo!I love the two 116' concept renderings (1, 2,).I am really impressed with these pieces of work, and they both include ppl for context. Finding the balance between the exterior shape and interior layout is very similar problem to neither styling or utility being in themselves enough to grab ppls attention, its somewhere between the two. I'm thinking that a 15 ft boat is going to need 2 to cartop, whereas I can easily manage the PDR on my own.
I've been working on a new 15' boat that's cool looking and if you can hold her down, very fast. Generally the boats are designed for an international market and then the trailers are produced locally.
My son has no interest in boats at all, on the other hand, my daughter can be talked into anything!
There is a fairly comprehensive brief and hypothetical persona but the key elements are that the boat come in close to $100k, include an enclosed toilet, a fridge, have a large amount of deck and cabin space and be trailerable. It def has more usable deck space and cabin space due to its height than anything I have found so far in this size of boat.
The interior is going to be challenging, but that can wait until I have a hull design to work within.



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