Here are your search results for free small plywood boat plans woodworking plans and information the internet's original and largest free woodworking plans and. 4 or 5 have been built and a few stretched versions are on the verge.This is the original at 12 ft long and 4 ft wide.
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada If you click on user CP you can see if anyone has docked you points. 12'x 4' though it would be a lot more stable at 5' or better in beam, though it's efficiency will drop quickly.
This shape will handle chop and passing powerboat wakes much better then the floating shoe boxes others seem to enjoy. The design above will easily out perform any of the shanty boat, box boat or square micro cruiser thingies.
Having said that i can once again assure you that you dont want to go that fast in a 12' x 4' (4m x 1.2m) boat. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
But the flat-bottom skiffs tend to porpoise and pound, and I might occasionally tow a skier or want to cruise sort of fast, while a 40' deadrise is a bit much for me.
So, I have been looking for shoal draft, chop handling, and ability to cruise comfortably on plane. Then I started drawing and -surprise- same up with a 20ft skiff (is there a prize for the billionth design?).
I realize it might not perform better than other S+G designs (at best) but to me the look is better, with a couple extra panels.
Location: maine Regardless of what she'll do motoring, I saw nothing in the lines to prevent sailing rather fast with the right rig.
Location: Pontevedra, Spain You'll have to keep that forefoot out of the water when planning, or it may induce directional instability, in my opinion. I have only crude guesses about trim under power at this stage, but with an outboard, it should not be hard to have the bow trim up. Now all I have to do is turn the aft stations to true monohedron and I would have something I could buy on any street corner-the homogenized skiff! Location: Sydney I think your second design looks much better - no need for that pointed forefoot in the first one, and that wedge did look like the drag would outweight the benefits. Location: Virginia, US The transom is not warped as you can see from the (unfaired) views here. BWD View Public Profile View BWD's Gallery Find all posts by BWD « >small jet boat design help? Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa designing a fast rowboat I live in New England (USA) and we have a growing sport of open water ocean rowing racing.
Location: Lake Michigan I don't claim to be an expert, but for speed, little to no rocker is good.
A race boat would have to be longer (the longer the better) and a bit wider (but not much wider). Location: Cornwall, England Take a look at a gig, they don't come any faster or sweeter (but I'm biased, we've raced 'em in Cornwall for the past couple of hundred years! Location: Eustis, FL Build her light and put some foils on her, so you can spank the fleet. Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa Safewalrus, We have the gigs here too.
Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa Terhohalme, Very interesting piece of work, I'd be interested to find out more about your boat. Location: Trondheim, NORWAY I think you could try minimum wetted surface, long waterline and optimize the Cp for your speed.
Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa Safewalrus, That Flashboat, VERY interesting can you point me to plans?
Length must be an important part of the speed equation,a long narrow boat will always be faster than a short wide one. 1 ) A fast rowboat will probably be as long as possible and because of its length will be able to have as narrower beam as permitted by the required displacement. Bow steering ,yes like you guys I am concerned about bows digging in and directing the issue. There must be a point where the trade off between wave making and wetted surface is at an optimum..
Alder is one of ten power boat designs created for the article “Power Boat Design, Form and Function” PDF, published in Wooden Boat #137. Using our guide of one horsepower per 500 lbs, Alder needs about 5HP to attain her cruising speed. Location: London, UK Small steel boat Hi, I have a number of pieces of steel salvaged from a houseboat remodelling job I did.
This boat is biger than 12 feet, but You can have problems with wight if You want exactly 12 feet. Barefoot 5.8 a planing sail and oar boat and Barefootwoodenboat's entry in this summer's Race-to-Alaska was launched Saturday.
Based on our successful Seka (13’6”) design, this new launch is to be strip-planked as a semi-production project by J and J Gloucester of the UK. Location: Croatia On a Wayfarer you can stand on the gunwhale and it won't tip over. I have to agree with Bistros - don't look at anything less than 14ft if you want enough space to take you both in comfort. Actually PDRacer was one of the first pages I researched, and thought it is more of a boat than a Kayak, so headed away to find Kayak designs! Originally Posted by PAR but still only a child a mother could love in the chick magnet department, no matter how much bright mahogany trim you install. You will like these pics I got today (yes TODAY) from the philippines where a couple have been built. If I was an advertising type I might suggest that this was a common risk for all PDRacer owners. The Goat Island Skiff and the 14' Raid boat look like great candidates - big enough to comfortable fit two.
Although you want a boat that basically can't capsize, you have to plan for the worst and assume it could happen.
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Matoi, I will take great care to ensure the missus doesn't see THAT site until after she has enjoyed a relaxed, leisurely trip around a really small lake! Bistros: hauling the wet missus into anything afloat is definitely not in the plan, but I was thinking of having a boarding ladder so she could climb back over the transom, while I jeer from midships or perhaps something more appropriate.
Location: Eustis, FL They're not that young, you're just old enough to think they are.

Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Par, the RYD-8.4 looks very suited for my purpose, what does it weigh?
As an aside, I notice that, on many Gunter rigs, the boom and gaff are similar in length, and I would assume in section too. Location: Eustis, FL Less then 100 pounds with full exterior 'glass sheathing and rig.
I'd say there are quite a few candidates among the designs of Paul Fisher (Selway-Fisher) and Gavin Atkins.
While my last design is being printed on a 3d printer I am designing a boat for my final semester project.
Would almost want to see some dimensions because your proportions seem fairly confusing at the moment.
Yeah that sounds like you might be right, I have been receiving similar feedback from a number of ppl.
Every time I check my dimensions and scale things seem correct but the designs to look quite far off. Because it is a relatively short boat and I expect to have two sterndrives providing almost 1000kg down low I thought that I had a fair bit of flexibility with the boat's height.
It may not be a workable design but the stern drives will be mostly below the waterline up against the transom and beneath the stairs.
Other boats in this field do tend to lean in the yacht direction and are a little chunky but I def went overboard with the height of the boat because I was chasing more cabin & deck space. Location: barbados Small Power Cat Design I?m looking for is input on the specs for a powered cat design, I want to build a small ?shallowish? draft power cat that can handle moderate chop and keep me dry.
It?s been suggested that I go flat at the transom (how flat?) and move to a vee section toward the bow. A flat bottom provides more volume under the water per inch of immersion, supporting more weight than a v shape.
So in the case of a smaller boat or RC model you may need to find ways to compensate for the disporportionate weights of motor and crew to a small displacement boat. Your first discussion made me think of what I believe is called a slot hull, similar to a mono hull but with a slot cut through the middle.
Finally, If you think of the boat longitudinally the further out you place the motor with limited displacement the more it might effect the trim angle and create porpoising. Location: West Florida What worried me in my Cat plans was - How am I going to hold these two hulls together? I like your forms and model - please remember we can fill up books with what I don't know about boat design - but they seem a bit short for the shape. With your construction method - you'll have great compartments for in-hull storage, but the entire working surface will be deck (no cockpit). Location: Canada Power Cat Design Check out the book on tunnel boat design. My thought on cats is you get better stability for effective (high) aspect ratio of wetted hull (length width).
Location: barbados Small Power Cat Design I?ve got to say thanks for all the useful input I?ve been getting and I am trying to incorporate it into my design. The new mockup was sealed with tape and I?ve started some float testing but I?d like some help with the physics and math.
Well here are the latest pics, the hull seems to have a good attitude in the water but I will wait on your input before trying to hang 1.4 oz off the back. Pinning down the practical objectives your trying to accomplish and modifying the features of the boat to accomplish those goals is important. Along the same lines I'd imagine in Cat design your torsional box is deck and bridging structure based. Similarly, Designing Power and Sail by Arthur Edmunds is a good primer with a lot of useful tables and formulas.
You might want to build a bigger prototype at some point so you your materials and model power will be more comparable to a full size model. IVB HUll with that cat design hull you will not get shallow water operation as the hulls will not support the weight without being forced deeper into water.. The 1728 for a volume (or mass) is quite correct and 144 would be the ratio for any area and obviously 12 for any linear dimension. If you intend to do any testing then check out the following notes.The model should be in the same type of water as the boat will operate and at the same draft (scaled down, of course).
So even a spacing of only one or two hull widths is probably enough for stability purposes but insufficient for a deck working width. Good luck with your tests and make sure you can measure properly the effect of what you're doing. You would have to reshape the bottom which would preclude planing with a motor so you would be stuck maxing out at about 5 or 6 mph. It looks like a boat, it has full standing headroom, requires very modest power and will leave a clean, unmolested wake. You will soon see that you want to cruise comfortably with sitting head room under the cabin roof to escape the sun. Maybe needs a touch more flare -tough issue for me ( - I'm from Va but went to school in NC ). So I was thinking originally if warped it might run flat enough to be good if I stay out of nastier waves. I have drawn in the 290 lb, 35 year old Volvo Penta MD 1 diesel, producing 7HP at 2300 RPM.
Another rule of thumb is that the hull is only twenty percent of a boat's cost, and the hull and deck is twenty-five percent. The new pilot house version of Harry 2, 30' LOD sailing scow, has been featured at Shanty Boat Living and Viva V is in WoodenBoat's summer 2013 MotorBoats magazine launchings anthology. And if your better half still feels unsafe, you can install a steel centerplate making it even more stable.
Is it practical, if becalmed, to drop the rig and use the boom and gaff as oars, with a clip-on blade? The scale of different elements (stairs vs seat, etc) plus having that trailerable seems a bit in conflict. I hope to build the two hulls separately ( stitch and glue) and then use ply bulkheads to hold the thing together.
If you perform the tests in FW but will operate in SW you will need to make corrections as the displacement volume is correct but the mass is incorrect.
I like the near-plumb stem, so kept that in spite of the lightness of the boat, since I'm not looking to go in big water. Hoping it might run 20-25kts with a 70hp OB, cut small steep chop easily off plane, and if lucky run comfortably at 15 or so.

Looks like a very fine entry and straight run with a lot of flare in the mid sections to get enough spread for oars on gunnels ( a requirement in our class). This type of boat is ideal as a harbour cruiser, inshore fisherman, or island support boat.
A traditional, bright finished 15' black-hulled carvel launch with new Briggs and Stratton inboard. And, in the over 30' power section, photos from this summer of the Wedge Point 27's "big sisters", Yellow Cedar 38 and Memory 38. I don't know much about the Raider, it seems a hair heavier but less beamy, perhaps that is due to the self-bailing feature.
These guys are throwing so much good stuff at me that I will have to go through a major exercise just making up my mind which boat to build. DragonFly is 16', fractionally rigged Bermudian and fast, though fairly stable as far as performance dinghies go.
Also in that 3rd image is the main large image, i think you sadi this boat might not work in real life, well i think its due to the way it sits in the water.
Say if you were looking at her from the side, she would look like her bow is flat (like your design) but on my design, her bow come to an edge and you can see that looking from the top. It's a fine arrangement if you're needs require the few things they actual offer, but your needs aren't as suited to a mud motor as you might think.
Feel over my head trying to integrate elemants here, but grateful for any constructive feedback. I would round the forefoot a bit, but easier to do in reality than in CAD, so it shows sharp in renderings. My ideas come from eight years of racing and constant observation of our own two boat as well as the boats we race against. Weather prediction for our 4 mile race on Saturday is for temps to be 53 degrees F and winds to be 10-15 kts.
For one thing the Volvo produces 5HP at 1500 RPM, which is so much easier to listen to than the outboards 4500 or so. So economy in the basic structure can go along ways toward making the whole thing affordable. I managed to capsize my W before I learnt how to gybe properly, and my girlfriend did become less enthusiastic about sailing in a dinghy. They are both light, obviously easy to build, probably easy to cartop, and they'll certainly have the legs of the PDR.
Sounds like the sort of feature a cheap ready made boat might have, and reduces the on-board clutter.
The model vertical centre of gravity should be close to the the boat's because it affects the magnitude of the trim. We want the hulls to float vertically but if we let them both float freely without connecting them they will only float horizontally, in other words they are unstable. If any images that appear on the website are in Violation of Copyright Law or if you own copyrights over any of them and do not agree with it being shown here, please also contact us and We will remove the offending information as soon as possible.. Rules are almost non existant and are limited to number of oarsmen,fixed or sliding seat, or general clasification ie: work boat or livery boat.
I had hoped that this thread would bring out the real designers and a discussion of general design theory. But the outboard is much smoother you say, this is true, but I can work on the Volvo with a hammer and a couple of metric wrenches. Another area for economy is outfit, no sensible builder will look twice at a design specifying a 35 year old antique engine, he or she wants something available off the shelf.
Lightly loaded and hiking out, you can get some performance out of her, but she's really just a tender, but a stable and easy to build one. To win, a boat must be able to stand up to some tough conditions yet have enough speed to achieve 6 knots+ in calm conditions.
I'm learning a computer program for boat design and have a couple of promising sketches worked up. Might put a look of dismay on the Cornish boys faces - to be beaten by a yankee 'flashboat' 'specially if they don't know you have one! When the outboard throws a fit I must take it to the nearest Factory Trained Technician, besides, the Volvo's slow, steady, thump is appropriate to Alder, and the weight will steady her down.
My boats usually end up lighter than average, I know where I can skim off the odd pound or two. Have the load on the model suspended in the correct way or in some Rube Goldberg way that emulates it. If we slide the hulls closer together there comes a position where it will also become unstable. Tad Roberts,a designer in Washington State, a forum contributor, was kind enough to send me a set of limes showing his concept of a fast row boat, and they gave me a lot to think about. This position depends on the the proportions of the parts and their weights as well as the weight of the cross-bar or blade.
I would appreciate a general discussion of design factors from people who are more knowledgeable than myself.
A large part of his ideas will show up in my next boat if I can just get the station molds to print out on my program.
I'm thinking that a 15 ft boat is going to need 2 to cartop, whereas I can easily manage the PDR on my own.
I've been working on a new 15' boat that's cool looking and if you can hold her down, very fast. If it is has been a good trip with the fish hold nearly full the boat is fairly deep in the water and its stability is not too good but sufficient.
Whatever she does, it's a fast boat (good crew too ) Does semi-planing happen, is it good or bad? My son has no interest in boats at all, on the other hand, my daughter can be talked into anything!
But if the next catch is very good then as it is being hauled aboard the net clears the deck and is swinging freely.
If you have the model correctly set up for the test then you'll get the correct trim but don't try and model any heeling with only a single hull. Current plans are to put some rocker in forward to reduce bow steer and reduce wetted surface.
You can have a good, stable catamaran but each hull on it's own could be completely unstable and even roll over.

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