About the boat: I understand your idea, also about pilot hause and cabin, but before have to think about hull. Originally Posted by WindRaf this V bottom is a little bit 'tortured', but is easy to built it with more plywood boards in ranges Looks good. Location: Texas I can put one of the electric conversion lower units on the centerline, in the flat spot, forward of the transom, then, when I get them made, the wiggle drives (an experimenters' term, where I got the idea, not mine) will be centered about 26 in. By replacing all 3 moving joints with CV joints, 2-fixed, 1 plunging, I can use sturdy, readily available, low-friction connections, in this one. By using 2-fixed and 2-plunging CV joints, in the 2-cylinder version, I can do the same thing, with one motor, to drive 2 shafts, one to either side of the paddlewheel. With 2, like this, per wheel, I could maintain the original 90* paddlewheel crank offset, by merely setting them appropriately, since they will be driven from the rotary end, rather than pistons driving the reciprocating end. Location: North Texas The following pages contain numerous examples of unusual transmissions etc for your perusal. Solar Electric Boat Design » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Requesting start-up information. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: Milwaukee, WI That needs a compressor and a high pressure boiler.
Bleed a small portion of the steam off, to drive a small motor, which powers the compressor and a generator (or alternator), a water make-up pump, and use the rest for propulsion.
Actually it seems more based on a pulse jet principle with the smooth inlet and sharp edged outlet of the entrance cone acting like a fluid diode coupled with the shock waves of the collapsing steam pockets. And if that's not loud enough there is the corrosion scraping system to run the peroxide combustor they propose. From a practical perspective, the end result is forward motion, with a fluid moving through the thing, by the action of all the working fluids. Fortunately, we can use a flash-boiler, instead of relying on an expensive chemistry experiment.
Instead, could you explain how the collapsing steam only pulls on the water in front of it? Now, that said, if you were already using steam one of these might possibly be good for a bow thruster set up as these are used intermittently.
Location: Michigan Pursuit Marine Dynamics shenanigans are not limited to the laboratory. Location: North Texas Incidentally, that pulse jet tech was invented to use mainly as a mixer. Location: Milwaukee, WI How is that jet going to work in your sunk in the mud scenario?
Originally Posted by gonzo How is that jet going to work in your sunk in the mud scenario? Location: Milwaukee, WI An outboard can be tilted half out of the water and still push the boat. Since nobody is willing to run it on a computer design program, then analyze, I'm doing the best I can. You are making a lot of unreasonable assumptions, such as flat bottom boats getting stuck in the mud.
When we talk about the weight of the boat, it includes the engine, tanks (typically half full), full crew, stores, coolers full of beer, Fidel the wonder dog, the whole bit, not simply a dry hull with nothing in it. Your hull form choices are dramatically different, though from a novice's point of view, I guess they sort of look similar. You can go all electric if you want, but as has been repeated by several, the costs will be considerably higher and range will be a big issue.
In a nut shell, you've kissed off an efficient hull, for some odd belief in stability, elbow room and water flow.
At first, I picked hulls from sternwheelers and shrimp boats, that I know are shallow water types.
Originally Posted by WindRaf indeed the Atkin do not has the stern submerged, but at water line, try asking yourself why I already know why it comes upward to the waterline.
He also has taller cabin walls, at the sides, which have made his boat top-heavy enough that the 1st version was unstable, when someone climbed to the upper deck.

You can see how lowering the height of the perimeter walls of the cabin and using a mollicroft for headroom will move weight back to the center.
He has a LOT more freeboard than I think necessary, and also has it narrower, by 1'6", which will make further differences in the waterline and stability.
My plan is to make the entire thing wider, lighter and have less vertical height at the sides. I also think his wheel looks too small, for the height of the structure, but that's more esthetics, than anything else. I still think the jon-boat, with some added transition to the transom, is the right way to go. At the recommended 2 lbs thrust, per 100 lbs of gross weight, the doubled 160 set up should cover it, right on up to hull speed. Once I've gone upstream several times, I'll have a better idea of how far downstream I can go, before needing to turn around. I also still think the 2 kW genset hybrid system is a key improvement over the straight battery setup, but nobody seems to be taking that into consideration, but me.
The only other hull I know will do that, I believe you would laugh at, in this thread, if not the forum, even though it's possibly easier to build, than the jon-boat, may be even better suited to the area.
Location: Milwaukee, WI I think you should start by using simply paper and pen. The stern submerged is not just a problem of the wheel: it is also a very important problem of resistance at hull speed. So if you want a boat also hybrid electric, the resistences of the hull are the first problem. For your project I suggest this geometry: Attachment 96200 Attachment 96201 Thank you. I wasn't aware that the submerged stern was a problem, but I've been trying to describe the same design problem, for another reason.
I figure a 3-in-20 slope 'v', with dead-rise to the sides, in place of the flat-bottom, should solve the problem. Another thing going for me, with the electric trolling motors is that I don't HAVE to buy the high-dollar toy.
I may be crazy, and often sound like it, but I'm not as dumb as the arguments make me sound, either. I tried to make the changes to the V bottom that you've suggested, but the resistance increases very much. Odd, to me, that the resistance would be increasing, since the hull should sit higher in the water, with more evenly spread buoyancy. That pontoon-like box configuration is actually close to the way she'll be done, one way, or the other.
Strano, a me, che la resistenza sarebbe in aumento, dal momento che lo scafo dovrebbe sedere maggiore in acqua, con galleggiabilita piu diffuso in modo uniforme. Questa configurazione scatola pontone-come e in realta vicino al modo in cui lei sara fatto, in un modo o l'altro. If having to work the boat is that significant design feature then you also need to include in the design how you will get it in the water with your troublesome back. Location: Texas For the through-hull direct-drive EV prop system, something like this, only 2 units, half the power each, one to either side of the keel? If there's a slow rise, ahead of the flooding, I can ride her down stream and get her out of the flow, ride it out in an eddy, then come back up, before it gets too low. There's an rv park with a public ramp, fairly close, and a public park with a good ramp, even further downstream, both within 30 minutes of driving-time, from the house. Originally Posted by WindRaf Attachment 96245 Attachment 96246 I can see the hull, but, have no idea how to read the graph.
That line is the trend volumes Hull: shows graphically how it develops the submerged part of the boat. The numbers indicate: the displacement - the center of buoyancy and flotation - and the metacentric height, which is the static stability of the boat. Once, all these calculations were made by hand on the drawing board, now design programs with the PC makes everything faster. Having a PC program is only more comfortable, but if you do not know what you're doing and why, the result will be disaster.

You Can See That to 3 knots does not exist residual resistence and the power that Has need the boat is very bit. Location: Italy ah, you can see also that the main deck (grey line) is flat. But i drew the wale, because in the deck totaly flat you can not keep enithing coz at the minimum heeling slips in water. Location: Texas Thrust line I noticed that there is a line through the bow, at the static water-line, that also passes through 2 of the points in the drawing.
The term 'static' is used only for calculating the metacentric height that indicating the stability. Instead to understand what happens dynamically, compares the profile that I posted in post 154 with the profile of the post 161. In my 20's I would have built authentic live steam but now, approaching retirement, diesel is more appealing. I have been boating long enough now to know that I would like the space and comfort of a houseboat, would enjoy being able to beach nose-first, and I am quite content to put along a 4 to 6 Knots so the overall characteristics of a sternwheeler suit me just fine.
Most standard hull shapes seem to be designed for efficiency at high speed or carrying large loads at low speed. I have been thinking along the lines of a 'stitch & glue' catamaran hull - something a little better than a barge.
And then, if you please, tell how the steady state propulsion, where the steam bubble is constant sized since new steam is replacing the collapsing steam, How does this constant volume pull on any of the water around it? This is only possible if the skipper was clueless, as a 15' LWL boat will trim several inches in either direction if the skipper simply farts. You've decided to take the one of the least efficient propulsion routes and drive this, with the most costly setup, next to atomic power, that happens to offer the least amount of range. So quanto sia difficile ho lavorato presso il disegno complessivo, e non avrei nemmeno cercare di indovinare quante ore di ricerca ho messo in, sia prima che da quando ha iniziato questa discussione. The above-water structure and outfitting is no problem but the hull style and construction are a concern - how to build an efficient low speed hull very economically.
Not only do you have to maintain everything with a zillion of rubber bands, but depending on the setting of the glue you use, you must be careful to avoid any slipping, and then you're never sure it will stay in position when you remove the bands. Christophe's last shot shows you don't need railings or passengers to be able to model a great ship.
Most of us do calculations on a slightly heavy load (full tanks, etc.), if only to make our speed predictions look better on launch day.
The Atkins will do, though considering when it was done, there's much to improve this 80 year old design now. It's getting better, but storage capacity and range are going to continue to kick engineer's butts, for some time to come. If this was truly the case (your assumption about flat bottoms) there'd be sharpie's and jon boats littered all over the world, in every tidal flat.
At very low speeds friction resistance is a consideration, however as speed goes up, it rapidly takes a back seat to wave making resistance. I recently found myself in a bit of pickle when I went to launch the boat and found it sitting on mud with about 20 odd metres to the water mark. It's not that you can't get stuck, but that just walking to the stern (in a 15' boat) will usually free the grounded bow and you can back off.
You can fool around with custom props, but if you think the motors are expensive, just try custom props. I've put a few dozen boxes over outboards, some (most) simply 3 sided affairs and the noise lowers to the point, that skippers try to start the already running engine. If this isn't soft spoken enough for you, then hook up a washing machine motor to a huge battery bank, for a hour and a half of cruising time.

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