Location: Port Townsend, Wa., USA Building plans for 26'-28' ocean-cruising STEEL sailboat? Location: Netherlands Sorry haven't seen any of those, but considering your requirements in STEEL it will be very very difficult for such a small vessel (without external ballast) to be 180 degree selfrighting. Location: Sweden Danish Rose 28 The Danish Rose 28 by Martin Bekebrede comes close you could ask him about stability details.
Originally Posted by mcm 26'-28', STEEL, blue-water, ocean-cruiser, with shoal-draft centerboard, and yet possessing complete 180 degree self-righting? In an inverted position the center of gravity is now well above the water and the floating hull unstable and should go back to an even keel with a nice puff or wind or wave movement, but usually the momentum of the roll will be enough to right itself again. As for the little cruiser; soon I am going to put pen to paper to design a little 25 - 26 steel boat - light weight steel construction blue water cruiser with very traditional lines above waterline.
Originally Posted by Wynand N mcm, simply put, all ballasted sailboats will (should) right themselves. And that's exactly what I think, but I’m still not sure if I should go with a ballasted or unballasted centerboard. I've been to your web-site several times over the past year, and I really like the work you are doing.
Originally Posted by Wynand N As for the little cruiser; soon I am going to put pen to paper to design a little 25 - 26 steel boat - light weight steel construction blue water cruiser with very traditional lines above waterline.
Moreover, I don’t want the expense of custom-plans, so I looking for cheaper stock-plans. Also, I am considering either a quarter-berth, or having a very shallow cockpit with a full berth underneath and no inboard engine, only an outboard mount on the transom. Here are some pictures of my TT24 under construction with lengthened cabin top and I changed the full keel to a naca series fine keel.
I am a member of Brent Swain?s Origami Yahoo Group, and, if Brent?s design was a centerboarder instead of a twin-keeler, I would be satisfied. I appreciate your opinion, and you certainly are not alone in that opinion, but I have read some other informed opinions that indicate that a centerboard pivoting into and out-of a strong, steel, stub-keel is very stable. True, Brent is very positive about twin-keelers , but his is a minority opinion, and most opinions indicate that, outside the extreme low tides of North-West Europe, twin-keels are disadvantageous. So far my search for plans for a 26?-28? ocean-cruising, steel, centerboarder is still on-going. Moreover, the Multi-Chine 28?s high freeboard is a waste, because I only need standing head-room in the galley and enclosed head area., thus I would prefer a lower freeboard replaced by a higher cabin top.
The BS26 wouldnt be a good canidate to modify to a swing keel like you discribe, the hull draft is about 2'. Not many steel sailboat plans for under 30' out there, might have to switch to diferent material to get what you want.

Location: Germany There are not many plans to see on the internet - but they are out there. The origami method is a very quick way to build the hull, decks and cabin structure the rest about the same as any other method.
Displacment around 6700 Lbs and 1800 Lbs lead balast, if you go to the origamiboat site look in the photo files tom's BS 26 I have a lot of pictures there. Tom tazmann View Public Profile View tazmann's Gallery Find all posts by tazmann Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Can Aluminum be painted? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I would also appreciate if anyone could give me any idea of what I should do in order to establish whether this is a good sailing boat.
I am aware that in Spain an abandoned boat like this needs to have a general plan and sheer lines for it to be registered.
Whilst this seems a dream of a lifetime coming true all your help is very much appreciated. Originally Posted by viking north First hire a good surveyor, don't be tight with the funds doing it. Obviously, a major project, at best, but when comparing to a build-from-scratch boat(new build) it would save you time.
General Comments: A traditionally styled simple vee bottom gaff schooner with fine ends similar to a Grand Banks fishing schooner. Number and Type of Drawings: Drawings are CAD, Lines, general construction, sail and rigging plan, general arrangement.
This schooner is designed to have enough accommodation space for 2-3 people to live aboard and also enough hold volume for them to make a living hauling freight. Hold volume is about 1300 cubic feet and with a PPI of 3000 pounds it takes 36000 pounds to sink her a foot. The schooner rig can be built with steel, aluminum, or wooden spars, and is ideally versatile for commercial use by a small crew.
Arrangement will include up to 4 bunks and a head in the foc’sl, with a good woodstove for heat. This is mostly due to the weight (and the distribution of weight) of the steel, aluminum would be better for this job.
Honestly it would be cheaper for you to look at this site, buy one and stick it in a container to where you live, pay the customs and enjoy). As far as I know mine is the first 26 built as a 26, there are a few that were built but were modified a lot and stretched to 28'. Under the files section there is a material list for the 26 that should give you a idea of what it takes.

Are there any specific coefficients and parameters I should be considering before doing anything with it? Can anyone shed any advice on how to go about drawing these plans if I am unable to source the original ones? Dig up her history--Owner---builder--why she's not being used---dig dig dig --the more you find out and post the better. The key question for me would be useable plate thickness of hull after sandblasting in & out. Do you have any clues about the seaworthiness of this boat and whether it could be used as an ocean going boat.
Transverse web frame (angles) and flat bar stringers, deep plate floors with integral tanks. Standing room at galley is no problem but the head being off to one side is with the deadrise of the hull. You need to give the members a good base of info to work from otherwise it's almost impossible to receive good reliable and detailed replys. Have you any details that could help me in sourcing the designs or someone who knows more about it.
As boat heels over, righting stability rises to a max in most cases at about 60 degrees of heel. If you have the skills to refit such a boat you should be able to judge the welding & fitting quality. I am trying to establish whether it will be a viable project to restore it and fit an engine and would eventually used it as my home. Then the righting moment will gradually reduce until it reaches a point of vanishing stability and she goes over - this usually happens in a window of 110 - 140 degrees average, depending on design and designer. For example if she was plated with a heavier plate than deisgned for above the waterline including superstructure she could be a top heavy pig and you could be caught in a catch 22 situation. This in turn could sink her too far past her designed waterline which already could be the case and so on. Not to discourage you she could be ok but without a set of design plans it's always a big gamble.--Geo. If all seems well to this point and you really want to build a boat, start determining her characteristics, once blasted. I am trying to investigate if anyone could help in identifying whether she is a boat made by a boatyard or whether it was made by a keen enthusiast.

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