Originally Posted by upchurchmr My personal hybrid thought is to make a round bottomed strip planked hull below the waterline, then use ply for vertical or flared sides to a ply deck.
Location: NW IIRC it is a sharpie with a relatively tight strip planked bilge radius.
With ply-on-frame you can build the frame from the offsets that you already have and plank up one ply sheet at a time, butt or scarf joining as you go. Originally Posted by ancient kayaker With S&G you will be handling full length planks, worrying about temperature, fast and slow mixes, glue working time and batch size. Don't fret about epoxy working times or batch sizes, it's pretty simple to keep it under control. Originally Posted by marshmat The only fibreglass work in S&G that really ought to be done in one shot is the final outer skin. You can start at one end, and by the time you get to the other end, the first bits may be going off, but it doesn't matter. Location: spain Another detail that's troublesome with stitch and glue is the size of the plywood panels. Originally Posted by michael pierzga Another detail that's troublesome with stitch and glue is the size of the plywood panels.
My own method is to glue inwales and chine logs to the sheer planks while they are flat which makes them stronger and easier to handle; the bottom plank is wider and easier to handle and the bilge planks can be added in sections.
Also, in a large, robustly-built S&G boat the planks must surely get rather heavy and an awful lot of space is needed to join the sheets into a full-length plank and leave room for a partially-built boat . Same comment about floppy panels, but this probably would be more difficult in a large size boat. Perhaps you should look at the Core Sound build sequence - doesn't look too difficult to me. The reality about S&G is it gets choosen because of its apparent simplicity - it is a great way to get started. Location: Eustis, FL Once a builder gets a handle on the procedures and processes in a taped seam build, there's no more difficulty then with other methods. One web site explains how the builder created rolling stands to hang the panels from, to present them to the frames.
I am relying on a 'basket' to retain the panels, and an overhead hoist to lift them off the assembly table. Location: seattle Wa USA If you look at picture of my earlyer post of Sam Devlins crew putting 48ft+ ply plank on my boat notice wood supports off bulkheads to hold plank and considerable bend in 8mm ply.
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If you wish to advertise on our site, please contact the advertising department and inform them on what pages and in what positions and in what form would like to see your ad. With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts. After you've got your joint somewhat solidified with a weld of thickened epoxy, you can remove the cable ties. I'm looking to build this same boat this spring, and would prefer to avoid the stringers as you did.
She has proven seaworthy so far, and I think that the fiberglass joint will prove to be stronger than a stringer joint in the long run. The frame needs marine quality material unlike the throw-away station molds required for S&G, but there will be bulkheads so you might not save much. Unsealed wood and mechanical fasteners are perfectly fine, if you like taking care of a traditional wood boat. There is always overlapping sections, and you can do one complete 'sheet', and overlap the next one on a later date. This works well for small boats and thin (3-6 mm) ply but, since thickness of ply and chine log both increase, in a larger boat the resultant plank becomes too stiff to bend without breakage. Just keep working from one end to another with deliberate (reasonable) speed leveling the epoxy as you go. There also was a recent post about a scaled Phil Bolger single handed schooner - wasn't any evidence of loosing limbs there. Get gratuitous Plywood gravy holder Plans here http DLBoatPlans The The stitch and gum method is.
Well-heeled to body-build in sew and I plan on the sew together and glue method and plan on victimization this boat to fish calm If single tail find a suitable short jon sauceboat that would be great. Because the stitch-and-glue joint is inherently waterproof, whereas stringers require caulking, the fiberglass joint will maintain a seal for longer as well. The extra cost of the chine logs will likely be less than the cost of the epoxy filleting material, and you can work at your own pace with no worries about temperature, work time of adhesives and so forth. The choice is, of course, up to the builder, and both methods- if done properly- are plenty strong and safe. No need to get excited since if the first end is curing while you are finishing the final end - what do you care?
They can also be heavy when doing the larger sizes of plywood - as you would use for a tug. Kits and GF12 angstrom unit round-eyed to soma versatile classic flat prat garvey jon boat duck boat.

I recently modified the Mini-Cup Sailboat plans, normally calling for assembly with wooden stringers, to stitch and glue.
Third year in the water, I modified the swing board to a fixed fin keel, moved the centre of resistance aft almost a foot and what a world of difference.
If you go to an electrical supply store, or an aircraft parts store; they sell a tool made for tightening and cutting zip ties. This would be the best possible scenario since you need to add a second coat to fill the weave while it is not fully cured.
Lifting one over your head, just to keep the ends from dragging on the floor can be an issue, but not an insurmountable one (wrap the ends).
They assembly the raw shell, but it's a floppy and warped assembly of panels until the seat boxes, bulkheads and other stiffeners go in. I don't do S&G, just passing on potential problems based on what I've seen and read of other's experience. Getting it into a building jig or cradle, that's level and forces the floppy panels into proper alignment is crucial for a symmetric hull. A secound set of ply planks sl thiner was placed over the first layer with temp fastners and blocks as below. When you've squeezed the trigger to the adjusted tightness it automatically cuts off the tail flush with the lock.
I'm not tryng to promote traditional methods either - I don't do that as I'm more into the wildly experimental .
The planking or panel thicknesses in these sizes are thin enough so the weight isn't an issue.
It must work Sam has built like 400 boats the larger ones probably use this method and they hold up well as far as I am aware. Bring Stitch And gum Sailboat Plans here http GetBoatPlans in that location are many shipway to find free stitch and glue jon boat plans.
On your mini cup, modifying the centreboard is a no go, but getting the upper spar mor upright, moving the 2 mounting points forward or shortening the boom, would all move the CE forward. From my own experience helping a buddy with a S&G build, it can be difficult to handle full-length planks alone without breakages, depending on their shape and thickness.

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