Originally Posted by tunnels One thing to remember is this is a very high performance boat so being stiff and this is important !!
If you use epoxy (not Polyester resin) with the fibreglass, for both sides of the plywood - total encapsulation - you get superior rigidity with a big increase in strength, and no plywood rotting problems. Location: Spain It appears that what for some is the perfect solution for others is nonsense.
Originally Posted by TANSL It appears that what for some is the perfect solution for others is nonsense. If you use Epoxy resin, which IS waterproof - and totally encapsulate the plywood ( inside and out) , no water can get to the plywood, and it will stay intact. Location: Coastal Georgia I guess at 90 mph you would want to be sure that more lift is what you want. Originally Posted by rwatson If you apply fibreglass to the outside - the plywood is not waterproofed from inside. The bilge of these boats is simply treated (after the proper cleaning, sanding and drying) with several layers of primer (like UCP by International) followed by layers of the grey resin-based varnish for bilges (like Danboline).
I suspect that many problems related to the total (inside+outside) encapsulation of the wooden hulls arise from the non-respect of one fundamental rule in the wooden boat construction - the use of properly dried wood. The same is valid for the works of restoration of existing wooden hulls, where it is necessary to dry the hull to the proper moisture content (10-12%) prior to varnishing (or encapsulating it, if really necessary - but I wouldn't do it in this case). Location: Spain Thanks daiquiri and michael, I am now able to understand things and I think I can reiterate what I said previously, a job well done, encapsulated or not, does not have to give any problem.
Your comments explain, at least so it seems to me, why two of our best experts in this forum could have such different opinions. Originally Posted by TANSL I think I can reiterate what I said previously, a job well done, encapsulated or not, does not have to give any problem.
Some woods bond better than then some others with the epoxy, and that can be one of important reasons why you will hear differing opinions (even between experienced boatbuilders) about hull encapsulation. Cheers daiquiri View Public Profile View daiquiri's Gallery Find all posts by daiquiri Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Has this been tried?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. We are all aware that sacrificial 'zincs' are necessary for the protection of the metal in those critical boat and motor components.However, while the basic principles of electrolytic corrosion are relatively simple they tend to become more complicated when applied to Wooden Boats.

Galvanic Isolators maximize anode life and protect metal parts on boats against galvanic corrosion.Installation is simplified by the fact that they do not require a dedicated monitor to verify operational status.
And remember, checking your zincs should be part of her annual check-up.Replace them before they have eroded completely away. Electrical on a wooden boat? Where do you place an anode on the outer hull of a wooden boat? Shaft Anode onWwooden Boat  Is it mandatory to fit shaft anode on wooden boat with copper cladding?
The Anodes Page Comments  Click on the link to view and post your comments on information on this page . The Ashcroft method of building small wooden boats using thin layers of wood could be described as an early form of cold moulding.He devised the method to make boatbuilding easier and cheaper for the amateur with limited woodworking skills, back in the days before epoxy and plywood construction. Comments on the Ashcroft Method for Planking Page   View and post your comments on information on this page . Should I use thicker plywood without stringers on the padded surfaces of this design or, should I use stringers and thinner plywood? I can understand a flexible hull being ideal to a point but, the bottom of this boat (padded running surfaces) needs to retain a very straight and smooth surface over the life of the boat. The inner layer of fibreglass will also contribute greatly to the strength of the structure. Search for the words 'encapsulate' and 'epoxy' in this forum, and you will be inundated by the amount of information about it, especially if you use PAR as the writer. Sure, these boats are precious and are hence hauled out and stored in a dry place after every use - a kind of treatment many small boats don't enjoy. The wood (either solid or ply) used for boat building shall have the moisture content of around 10-12% in order to assure the proper mechanical resistance, flexibility and resistance to rotting. If this simple rule is respected, and the bilge is properly ventilated and kept dry, the wood doesn't need fiberglass cloth inside, unless there are structural reasons for doing it, like Michael has noted. People don't like that part associated to the ownership of a boat, that is one of main reasons why plastics has been so successful in replacing it for general boating.
Teak and white oak are two examples of commonly used woods which are more difficult to bond with epoxy than the others. I do not want to bottom to become wavy over time which may be more likely with thinner plywood over stringers.

But the fact that so many Riva boats have more than 40-50 years of service and are still in a shiny condition shows that with a proper care of the hull the encapsulation with fiberglass is unnecessary. And, of course, some layers used to seal the wood need not add appreciable resistance to the hull.
The answer to the problem of wooden boat maintenance was the invention of various methods of encapsulation of wood with resins, (with or without reinforcing it with the glass).
So few unsuccessful (because not properly done) encapsulations of structures made of these species can create a bad reputation to the whole method, even where it would be perfectly indicated. First off the bottom is designed using Liberator 21 specs or very close with no major changes as of yet.
I would think the thicker the core material the more ridged the panel but stringers and thinner wood may create nearly the same strength.
This boat should be capable of 100mph (with correct setup) yet, I will be pleased if I reach low 90s with the power I plan to use. If the inside is well ventilated, that will help keep the unprotected plywood drier, but it will not last. It might be a correct approach on some constructions and for some construction methods, but it is certainly not a holy grail of woodworking. To be realistic, the boat that I am basing my design on is a 105mph boat with a 300xs and my design should be lighter with the nice smooth top deck which would be more aerodynamic.
In theory my boat could be faster due to greater lift ablity with the top deck design on top of the lighter weight hull. Any one care to share their thoughts on what glass to use and what kind of scheduled to go with? I will have Aeromarine Researches software here soon to start my analysis of my design so maybe I will be pleased with the calculated results. Just vent bilges really well to prevent premature failure of wood If you only layup the outside of the plywood, you lose a lot of strength and rigidity, and leave the plywood sitting in water - and it will rot.

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