Getting around the at heart of a scanty boat hull is comparable walking about atomic number 49 a big salad stadium everything tends to slide to the center. Two weeks ago, I met Chris Finks (Maritime Heritage Coalition) at the Portland Yacht Club to personally tour several of the historic and wonderful wooden boats his friends own and moor at the Yacht Club, and to talk shop (wooden boat shop of course).
Finally, I met with and interviewed Mark Hall who owns a 1961 Chris Craft Constellation that is 55′ of craftsmanship and stateliness. Click on the green player button above to listen to the interviews with Chuck Kellogg and Mark Hall, and find out more their wooden boats passions, adventures and tall stories. Click HERE to subscribe to my email news list for the latest and greatest fun stuff and click on one of the buttons below to subscribe to my show. This client opted for teak ladder-back seats and vinyl upholstery, and twin consoles forward of the pedestal seats. We are located on the Snohomish River in the Pacific Northwest, about 20 miles north of Seattle.
Location: California wooden boats in the winter I was wanting to move to the Maryland area and I wanted to know what wooden boat owners do to their boats in the winter if they are live-a-boards and also I am concerned about salinity levels. I haul my boat for a couple months each winter (cold molded) but would probably keep her in the water if I lived close enough to touch her every day and night. CatBuilder Previous Member   A wooden boat is arguably the best boat made for winter liveaboard. I've spent several winters aboard hauling firewood (the only source of heat for my wife and I) down to the boat. Or course, you must winterize everything (as mentioned above) and hunker down for the winter. The heat that you do produce, as a liveaboard, helps a lot with keeping any ice away, but ice rarely forms in any damaging quantity down south like that. I've got about a million tips, so go ahead and fire away any specific questions you may have had. Location: California Thank you all for responding so far, I have a 34 foot Sea Spirit, It's a Hugh Angleman design and was built in Yokahoma Japan in 1967 by Tokyo Yacht Works. Originally Posted by wsvoboda Thank you all for responding so far, I have a 34 foot Sea Spirit, It's a Hugh Angleman design and was built in Yokahoma Japan in 1967 by Tokyo Yacht Works.
A wooden boat is at its best in cold, salty waters because those boring worms that eat away wooden boats down in the tropics don't exist up in MD.
I've found a lot of expertise on Wooden Boat forum and there are a number of members there that have older vessels in the bay that can talk to any long term concerns about the level of salinity.
Location: California BKay I am working hard at getting a job at NAS Pax River, I was an Aviation Ordnanceman in the Navy but the job I'm trying to get is a security position. Location: California Well if I get called for he job I will have to have her shipped, it's just a matter of finding a fair priced shipper I have heard anything from 6 to 10 thousand. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. This was taken at a boat show, so the kids have been looking at the Porta-Potti hidden under that center cushion and have replaced the cushion reversed so the plaid doesn't match. Here we have a teak ladderback seat with custom cushions and a steering console with storage under. There's a ladderback pilot's chair, with a family seat opposite where mom can keep the younger kids close.
Refinishing your boat's interior bulkheads isn't a difficult job and like most maintenance jobs, the professionals who make their living detailing boats know a few tricks for achieving a quality finish.Teak is the wood of choice for interior bulkheads and originally it likely had either a saturating oil or varnish finish.

With Cherry Ellen Price Wood and was wondering how wellspring it holds up compared to Teak. I want to build a community of people from all over the world who want to connect, learn, share stories and photos, and have fun with wooden boats.
The elegant teak seats and self-bailing cockpit sole are built from real teak planks, not cheap plywood. The kids can sleep there and on the engine compartment cushions, under canvas, when cruising. The starboard seat locker serves as a custom ice chest, while the port seat has a backup manual bilge pump, just in case the two 3500gpm electric pumps become incapacitated.
I’ve been looking at done past duds but in that location are really real few photos of interiors on the WBF therefore if anyone feels generous I would I too have never owned antiophthalmic factor boat. Usance built wooden boat teak and mahogany interiors usance wood seating and cockpits wooden boat interiors. The plywood berth ceiling panels create a chimney effect and keep dry the cushions and effects stowed under the berth. The cabin top interior is also painted with Awlgrip, which looks nice against the varnished Douglas Fir beams. The pedestal seat sits on a slider, so there is ample room and good visibility either sitting or standing. This client chose to varnish the seat borders, trim and table, and leave the rest of the teak bare. This cockpit is in a boat with a triple mission: offshore sport fishing, family cruising, and water skiing with kids and friends.
Again, the sole, engine box top, and seats tops are made of teak planks vacuum bagged down onto a plywood substrate, glued down in epoxy and the seams filled with epoxy and graphite to simulate the old-fashioned caulking seams. Bay Area Marine Services the most trusted name inward usage devil dog woodworking specializes in usance sauceboat interior cabinetry renovation crimson wood and teak. When the show is over, after a thousand or so people have stepped on the carpet and duct tape, we just rip it off. Restoring an oil finish requires less effort in surface preparation and application, assuming the wood is in good condition. So we see an engine box sporting six removable rocket launchers and walkbacks on each side of the box with removable seats against the transom. No damage, no sign it was ever there, just another testament to the usability of our boats. Simply clean, lightly scuff the surface and you're ready to coat.Varnished wood typically retains its gloss, regardless of age, when not exposed to UV light. Mildewed or stained oiled or varnished surfaces require additional pretreating before refinishing.Surface PreparationTo treat surface mildew, clean with a mildew stain remover or use a solution of hydrogen peroxide, boat soap and water.
Like in all our self-bailing boats, virtually the entire cockpit sole consists of watertight hatches. Apply with a brush and in a few minutes simply wipe or rinse off with clean rags or paper towels. If the surface is in good condition, clean and degrease with a solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP), sold at hardware and paint stores, applied with a sponge.
Mildew or water that migrates under the coating causes the surface to turn a milky color and the varnish to lift. If the finish is salvageable, then clean with TSP.Follow any cleaning with a very light sanding.

This is not the occasion for aggressive power sanding or you risk breaking through the plywood's face (a veneer), actually not much thicker than a few sheets of paper.
If you sand through the face veneer, you'll reveal a different color wood running in a perpendicular direction. Using a power sander can also create deep scallop-shaped indentations or leave swirl marks that become noticeable after applying a glossy finish.
Use a rigid sanding block held level against flat surfaces and a soft pad for round or contour areas. Select the finest grit sandpaper that effectively removes the old finish; usually, 240- to 320-grit paper. Its flat profile evenly distributes the pressure and reduces the risk of sanding through the veneer.Rather than using sandpaper, some detailers use a 3M Scotch-Brite General Purpose Pad or ultra-fine maroon pad to gently scuff the surface in preparation for coating, as well as for sanding between coats. The goal here is to lightly scuff the surface to create a rough pattern that grabs the oil or varnish.Removing a peeling varnish finish may require a chemical stripper applied with a brush. An effective stripper wrinkles the finish and then it's scraped off using a plastic blade or modified steel scraper.
Sanding is often more effective than a chemical stripper, depending on the condition of the varnish. Chemical removal is the only means for removing a recent oil finish.After sanding or stripping, you may want to apply a teak brightener (part "B" of a two-part teak cleaner) to bring back the color. Where teak is mildly discolored or has turned a grayish color, a light sanding with 320-grit paper may restore the wooda€™s natural color.Should you decide to switch from oil to varnish, your success depends on the time span since the last oil recoating. Simply wipe down with a solvent (acetone, lacquer thinner or the recommended varnish thinner) and then lightly scuff with the maroon pad and you're ready to varnish. Do a spot test first to be sure no contaminants remain that might lift the varnish, or consider using a clear finish, such as Bristol Finish, MDR Amazon Teak Luster or others, that claim to overcoat oiled surfaces without additional surface preparation.Remove all dust by vacuuming the bulkheads and the entire interior and then rub down the bulkheads with a tack cloth. Allow at least an hour for the dust to settle before applying the finish.Always protect your eyes with goggles, especially when sanding.
Make sure you have sufficient ventilation and use a dust mask and a respirator with carbon filter when applying any coating.Clear FinishingOil selection depends on the desired color and finish. They soak into the wood without any surface buildup, resulting in a natural wood-like finish after the necessary six or more coats. Varnish builds up faster with fewer coats and requires a light scuffing between coats.Before coating, the wood must be dry. Mask the edges using a fine striping tape; it's a timesaver when applying multiple coats as it eliminates the need for exactness.
Some pros prefer "ragging" oil by pouring a small amount on a cotton rag (old T-shirts or diapers work great) and then rubbing the oil into the wood, always working with the grain.
A minimum of six coats provides the necessary protection for most oils but check the label for coverage instructions.Varnish types are either single or two-part, which requires a catalyst.
Two-part varnishes are more difficult to apply but are longer lasting, more durable, and offer higher gloss retention and better scratch resistance than one-part varnishes. A conventional varnish requires eight to 12 coats to obtain the same deep luster accomplished with three to four coats of a two-part varnish. However, the high toxicity of two-part coatings may make it unsuitable for use in confined interiors without the proper respiratory equipment.

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