For our rate sheet, see our rates page or you can contact us via email or call 804-776-8833. You can see here the rear skin of the boat has been mechanically removed to gain access to the transom. Getting a boat and sailing the sea is a dream for many, but not many can afford this luxurious dream. The brand new, clearly written and illustrated book brings to the reader the experience and insights gained by Taube through 40 years of boat building, owning and sailing wooden schooners, marine surveying and wooden boat repair. Taube’s previous book, “The Boatwright’s Companion,” published in 1986, has become the wooden boat owner’s bible.
Reach out to the author: contact and available social following information is listed in the top-right of all news releases. Location: Juneau Alaska wood boat repair Hello my first time posting so direct me if Im not doing something right. Location: Seattle, Washington, USA Others are better than I am for your type of boat - but they will probably ask for a few pictures of the boat and the damaged area you want to repair to help them give you accurate advice.
Location: Eustis, FL Without a much better description and photos of your boat, most of the replies are shear speculation.
Location: Juneau Alaska here is a picture of the bow - I pulled the gelcoat off and sanded down paint not sure how to proceed. Location: Eustis, FL I highly doubt it was gel coat, as this wouldn't be put straight over wood, except by someone who didn't know what they're were doing.
If you're going to epoxy the boat, the minimum would be the whole exterior of the boat, not just the bottom.

Location: Tasmania,Australia That white stuff looks like it could be glass. Even so, Pars advice sounds good for a sound hull, and if the bow is anything to go by, a good paint job should work ok. However, you may find that the reason it got fiberglassed in the first place is that some of the hull isnt that good. In either case, an big hull cleanup, including removing the fasteners, would be the prudent way to start either process. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Al) Cody Taube is a writer and illustrator, long time wooden schooner owner and captain, marine surveyor and wooden boat specialist who believes there is definitely an art to wooden boat repair. This new edition is updated, enlarged and destined to become a wooden boat owner’s and wooden boat lover’s favorite classic book.
I'm betting you have a polyester sheathed boat and it's doing what all do eventually, which is spit off their hard plastic coatings. Under the areas with surface defects, is there bare wood, raw wood or other wise un-coated wood?
If this is the case, then grind it all off or forever be dealing with these types of of issues.
With this boat's expected service, you'd be wise to also sheath it, for abrasion protection. If you saw a gap between it and the timber, then chances are it was fiberglass of some sort.

If this is the case you have two choices, grind down until you're back to solidly attached sheathing, fill the area with fairing compound and paint or remove the sheathing a try again. In other words, if you removed the paint directly under one of the bad spots on the deck (underside of the deck) would you see 'glass or wood?
You could use 16 or 24 grit and make very quick work of it's removal, but also very likely need to repair some damaged areas, from the aggressive grit. 36 to 40 grit would be reasonably fast, with less surface damage if you're careful with the sander. A disk grinder is what I'd use, but this is a tool that can easily remove way more than you ever wanted in just a few seconds. It's a lot easier to repair and finish a wooden boat without these hard plastic coatings on it.
60 and 80 grit would do even less damage, but you might make a career out of removing the coating.
The best bet, is to try a grit and if you seem like you're working too hard, go down to a coarser grit.
Two rules with any sander and bulk removing stock: always keep moving and change the paper often. In fact, you'll do this each year and every 4 or 5 or so, a whole new paint job, because it'll look like hell and it'll be due.

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