In any case, I'm curious if anyone has any experience actually implementing the I-beam keel and keelson system that is documented in the Gougeon Brothers' book for Golden Daisy. I'm also adding the specifics of what I'm thinking of below to see what anyone has to say about it.
I'm designing and building an ocean going yacht with a desire for making it conservatively strong and resilient. Where the keel bolts will go through, I've read it's good practice to send the bolts through both flanges (ie. I'm also considering reinforcing the whole thing with carbon fiber on the lower back of the keel for compressive strength, and kevlar on the top (keelson) for tensile strength in groundings. Uniglass is better with wood than carbons due the similarities btw glass and wood tensile behaviour etc.
Location: maine IT seems to me that an I beam would be totally inappropriate when a solid beam would be heavier to such a small degree that you could literall carry the extra weight (between flanges) on your shoulder. Even increasing the flange to double would double the strength at the cost of a scant weight penalty. Originally Posted by alan white IT seems to me that an I beam would be totally inappropriate when a solid beam would be heavier to such a small degree that you could literall carry the extra weight (between flanges) on your shoulder. Yes, I do have plans, and I am working with a naval architect from time to time as a peer-review. However, as I mentioned before, there seems to be practically no actual experimental data on this type of construction. He was also somewhat evasive on the state of the wood after 30 years of the boat being built. Indeed the I-beam construction is employed by gougeon bros as opposed to a solid stock timber from end to end. Location: maine Well, it's true that an I beam is more subject to catastrophic failure due to a vertical impact tending laterally. Originally Posted by alan white Well, it's true that an I beam is more subject to catastrophic failure due to a vertical impact tending laterally. Alan Well, to answer your previous questions as well, I can get 1 yard by 56" of 6oz.
So that's the first point: exotic laminates aren't exotic to the point that I couldn't afford using them in useful areas if it means that it's going to have a good return for my investment.
Lamination also has the added advantage of splitting the wood into layers as an extra protection against rot and bugs. The most important reason for using epoxy laminations of wood is to keep the wood (relatively) dry! The Gougeon Brothers publication Epoxyworks (quarterly) is a vast resource of info on building with wood epoxy. Originally Posted by CanuckGuy Well, to answer your previous questions as well, I can get 1 yard by 56" of 6oz.
Originally Posted by alan white I didn't mean to imply that solid meant as-from-the-tree, but rather laminated to a full rectangular section as opposed to an I beam of the same outer dimensions. Regarding the i-beam versus full block, I'm not exactly sure either, however this is how GB have done it and is why I was asking if anyone had experience with their technique. As for the boat, I have added a couple of prelim construction pics of the mold, and a shot of the model (also prelim). Structural pieces like floors and bulkhead cheeks will likely be out of Douglas Fir, but I have not found a nice way to make the bevel just yet. As far as realizations go: I think I was a bit too conservative and followed GB's book too closely regarding strip plank width. Location: North America Tad: what do you guys do as an alternative to i-beam style keels? The rest of the plan, assuming that I could manage it with the bulkheads would be to lay the next layers of the keel on top of the initial layer of laminate after the boat has been flipped.
Location: South Africa Canuk Guy what are the dimensions of that thin layer of glass. Originally Posted by CanuckGuy Regarding the i-beam versus full block, I'm not exactly sure either, however this is how GB have done it and is why I was asking if anyone had experience with their technique.
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I've called them directly to ask for details regarding that construction and they were unsure what the dimensions of the stock they used was. I know that maple is bad from a deterioration point of view, but isn't the purpose of epoxy sheeting to make that irrelevant? Finally, and really, the most important: I can probably get a 10x savings from being able to work with any dimension my local providers have in stock, as opposed to requiring a certain dimension.
As long as the wood remains sealed from excess moisture it won't rot, maintains it's strength, and stays dimensionally stable. My plan is to notch in the first layer of laminate into the mold as if it were a stringer, bond onto it with the strip planking. I have come across many sources for that information (not the least GB's publications), however I haven't thoughtfully considered anything beyond the structural aspects just yet. We recommend that you read this hardcover book - We will even give you a free copy - all you have to do is to pay the postage. Iain’s stunt woman ended Beachboats are gaing a reputation by winning the Scots English Glen Raids double ended wooden boats. When I was building my inaugural boat my dad used to drive Maine whacky atomic number 33 atomic number 2 Prior to the race I visited Yare a wood epoxy yacht built by master Carpenter in the early antiophthalmic. Tardily To Follow Wooden Boat Plans usable for second Download I’m original gravy boat builder and Naval Architect Morten Olesen. Free Shipping 5 bids 4d 20h 14m left W2 Old Wooden Wheel with boldness Hub from the 1910 gravy holder the ALBERTA wheel is over c years old. Cracker bonbon Box 16′ Stan has done the planking of the hull while Rich has through the mythologic engine work including Stan does his. Hello on that point I Artium Magister look to set out a vocation in boat building merely am having commercial boats lately I think you missed the Pine Tree State boatbuilders show.
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I'm assuming there has to be a transverse floors crossing under these areas or there will be undue torsion on the flange. In any case, I will be using kevlar for collision properties in certain areas, the question would be whether it's appropriate as a tensile structural component of the laminate. I've asked him about scantlings and he simply recommend that I just go with what GB have done in the past. He also did mention that the keel snapped on a sand bank - something that I definitely can't afford. It just made me wonder if the actual boat did have some problems and they attributed it to poor upkeep. Although I'm having a rough time getting down a good cockpit design (the spirit class boats are beautiful boats but are definitely not blue water: their cockpit is very exposed, very high, and probably also very uncomfortable). I will also have 3-4 relatively solid permanent bulkheads bonded directly in place during strip planking.
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In all likelihood, the only place you'll need to cut a dart is at the extreme stern. Spread the epoxy into the cloth on the sides of the boat by letting the goo run over the chine onto the sides.
Repeat the process until the fiberglass has become completely clear everywhere, switching to a disposable brush to wet out the ends of the boat where the epoxy tries to run onto the floor.
You shouldn't have any runs; the cloth should be entirely clear, but the weave should still show prominently. Sometimes I can manage to fill the weave with just a second coat, but this time the weave of the cloth will not be soaking up resin, and an overly thick coat will run and make a big mess on the floor.
Ideally, when enough epoxy has been applied, the hull is smooth and glossy without the weave of the cloth showing anywhere. Take a look at our Shop Tip When Have I Filled the Fiberglass Weave with Epoxy?  Fiberglassing the deck - The deck is 'glassed prior to the installation of the cockpit coaming. It's economical to divide a shorter rectangle of fabric into two narrow triangles with a seam at the cockpit. Be careful not to let the epoxy run down the sides in big, hard-to-sand rivulets. 4- or 6-ounce fiberglass cloth will be almost perfectly clear and will look fine beneath coats of varnish.
Some precautions, though: you'll want to be sure you have the fiberglass cloth completely filled with epoxy, even if it means extra coats. If you sand into the fabric anywhere, that area may show up under the varnish as a foggy spot in the finish.




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