Location: Michigan I than jumped back to the corner pieces I gunked in and ground them flush with a small radius on the edges.
Location: Michigan I said it before and I'll say it again, This project is going to take a while with the kids racing, soccer, band and all the other normal family stuff. Location: Michigan I than removed all the rigging * I really just pulled it into the back and hide it untill I need to deal woth it later. Location: Michigan Cutting the back seating area and rounded the corners was next on the list.
Than ground out the rear seat base clearing the floor up for the new seat mounts I'll be installing at a later day. Location: Monroe WA I like to see this type of a cut and rebuild project, it does remind me that I have a project in the shop that needs to be started though.
Location: Mid of Finland Just found this thread, it sure is an interesting project.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. We have an optimist sail, rudder and centreboard which we can add to the sailing canoe, after the race. Boys will butt joint two 8ft lengths of 4mm ply to make the sides and bottom, and make the joint with a 1ft square patch over the joint, with PUR adhesive and plenty of tiny screws.
I plan two middle bulkheads, one immediately fore and aft of the 1ft patch, with the mast step and brace (mast unstayed for simplicity) spanning between these bulkheads. The construction will make it easy to position the leeboard exactly amidships, or there abouts, where the sides are already reinforced by the ply patches and the bulkheads.

I guestimate the centre of effort of the Optimist sail to be roughly 20-24 inches behind the mast. Assuming that I've got the C of Lateral Resistance exactly amidships (no allowance made for the pipe outriggers) this set up would set the C of E some 18" aft of the C of Lateral Resistance, on the 16ft hull. I'll probably have some more questions about the mast and boom in due course - I've got some great lengths of knot free birch rectangular section, planed to 35mmx48mm. 1) I suspect the lam wouldn't be fantastic - I'd use PVA and do a rubbed joint, then clamp.
2) its only going to see sheltered conditions and isn't really expected to last longer than the vacation. Bottom line is that it really doesn't matter if it doesn't work at all, but hey, if we've got a shout at a fun build that will sail a bit too, then its worth thinking about a little.
Location: Lakeland Fl USA Your estimate of the CE for the Opti sail is about right unless the sail is blown out and then the CE will be a little farther aft.
Location: Huddersfield, UK Well the boys built 'The Melonator' and the crew won the raft race resoundingly, in very damp conditions. We removed this and opened up the hole earlier in the project to allow easier access to the sponsen for glass work. This fills the small cracks and give the part a little structure so when we start doing body work it wont move, crack or twist. I know very little about these boats so I'd like to know a bit more of the boats former life. It worked pretty well for them 5 years ago, and they are 5 years bigger now, enough to manage the build entirely themselves.

If I can set the outriggers to just skim, then I'm in with a shout of a fair guess at the CLR.
I also made 4 braces attaching the front of the dash to the front bulkhead for strength and to help support the helm. Now I'm cleaning up the top so it will match the bottom and building a couple access panels. Its quick, cheap, dirty, and we're not expecting more than the vacation pottering around in sheltered waters, mild conditions.
We will use the centreboard as a lee board, being used to this on my Solway Dory sailing canoe, and it avoids building the centreboard case. That is counter intuitive until you consider that the sail is never over the center line of the boat when it is actually drawing. However, plenty of outrigger buoyancy for four 10 - 13 year olds is not enough buoyancy in the outriggers for two well ballasted 50 year olds and a sail. The trimmed sail is to leeward of the boat center line and that will, of course, set up a turning couple.
It is common practice to set the CE, a little bit aft of the CLR when fine tuning the helm reaction.

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