It appears to be built at the shipyard De Wachter (now called Vennekens) in Boom, a city near Antwerp in Belgium.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Eustis, FL Festool makes some of the finest tools in the world, but God they think a lot of their products. One tool they do have, which is hands down the only one I've found that actually works, is their detail sander. The typical list is a DA (duel action, orbital), which does duty as a rough to medium surfacing work, detail and finish sanders (jitter bugs, etc.) for the fine work, belt sanders of various shapes for rough work.
I'm sure a machine could satisfy your lover as well, if not more then you, but some things should be left to your own hands, as they are much more sensitive to the surface requirements then a machine. Location: Western Massachusetts I own numerous Festool Power Tools and while they are pricey they are the best that I have ever used. When there's no rush, or when it HAS to be right (like using spokeshave, rasp and scraper on a hand-carved tiller with an S-curve in the grain itself instead of laminations clamped to a form), and when it's your own boat, you have a right to enjoy your work for once. At the end of the sailing season, when I've had enough good sailing adventures, I begin to look forward to implementing all the ideas I had all Summer to modify and improve my boat---- and even the process of repainting and varnishing is enjoyable if it's not rushed. CatBuilder Previous Member   I'm guessing these aren't tools, either. If you look closely at the largest one and the smallest one, they have a centered mounting bolt to mount the flat side onto another flat surface. Give me good old plastic and spring boards made in China - some woodworking fanatacs dont know where to stop. CatBuilder Previous Member   If these are standing blocks, the guy did a pretty bad job.
I thot that, too but the one has sharp edges where you wud hold it and none are particularly ergonomic.
Location: usa maiden voyage Had to get it done so I could start a new project.
Location: usa It would probally weigh that without seat, floor and if the top was made from plywood. This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 United States License.
Location: Long Island, NY Restoring Bronze winches Can anyone recommend a restoration process for bronze fittings and winches? Location: Milwaukee, WI If you use your winches at all the laquer will wear off.
Location: Long Island, NY I've read that steel wool is not a good idea, but bronze wool is the way to go. Location: spain restoring bronze winches the fastest way to polish bronze,or stainless steel and other metals is produced by 3m.
Location: NewZealand I have some bronze mushroom van's wich a stuck in the threat. Location: Eastern Shore Mobile Bay I recently cleaned all of my bronze Meriman turnbuckles (14 in all) and the bronze mast goose necks buy using a bead blaster where I work. Location: Australia Building the Mushulu 14 Just thought I'd post a few pictures of the Mushulu 14 we're presently building. Myself, I am pretty new to all this, and am half way through (optimistically) restoring a marine ply 30 ft van de stadt yacht. I have no idea about the compatability of epoxy onto the polyester resin of the fiberglass. What I have learnt is that while a one component paint will stick well onto (two pack) epoxy, the reverse is not true.
The thing is if you seal it, then you seal in any moisture, and thus the fate of more rot.
It sounds like what you think you have that is still good is basically the hull and a bit of framing. I don't mean to sound pessimistic, but my own limited and current experience is that for me, every day so far, of working on my boat for 9 days straight, with one to three other people, is that every day the plan changes, and the job gets bigger.
P.s check my threads if you are interested in seeing the devolution of my project from a simple seal and paint one to two day job on the water, to a haul out, dry out, and near total deck and cabin refit. I guess to start with the boat really owes me nothing, the engine once restored cheaply (something I am experianced with) is worth more than the what the whole outfit cost me.
The reason for removing the fibreglass is really cosmetic, the original job left alot to be desired. After speaking with a local wooden boat restorer have come to the conclusion that I'll re-fiberglass the exterior once sanded, replace the transom and rotted frame, then put in new deck, seats, floor and engine cover.
Location: Orlando Fiberglas on a plywood hull is to give protection from scratches and scrapes and doesn't give much strength, unless a very thick layer. Other then the improvements to digging up the surface of the plywood on beaches, rock, docks or whatever, it gives little else, unless the whole of the plywood is completly covered or encapsulated. Plastics have been used as glue for a long time, but the wooden pieces were free to breath as the boats parts swelled or contracted.

Plywood with it's very thin venears pretty much needs to have the protection of fiberglass, but only for what it's good for, which is to keep the thin surface venear from getting torn up, during use. Sorry about the rant, I didn't know what 'bondwood' was and figured it was plywood, but wasn't real sure, so I rambled a little. But from what Hunter said, you might want grind and 'tooth up' the old polyester before you put the new on, rather than sand. Of course if you scratch the paint off, then water can get in, and if nothing is done then rot will undoubtably ensue.
I have 2 Blaxland 3.5hp, 1 Blaxland 3hp all are single cylinder 3 port 2 strokes and a Coventry Victor 2 cylinder horizontally opposed 4 stroke I think around 20hp. Read through your post regarding your current project, sound's like fun in a frusterating kind of way! Location: Adelaide Another question actually, what timber should I use for transom, replacement frames and deck structure. Timber and ply have been bought, all the wood to be removed has been cut out, the epoxy's and preservers and fillers etc.
While we didn't really have to go to all this effort, and could have done a quick little patch job, in the end I think it will be for the best, will tie us over for years to come, and has really allowed us to get to know our boat.
As I study full time at uni, I have been trying as hard as I can to get the work done in the easter week off (while totally ignoring my academic workload). Our days at the boat usually involve (just as today has been) an early morning rushed drive to the yards to de-tarp the boat, followed by some mad working, productive or destructive, before another cold front or change blows through with sideways rain and all the flapping tarps and flying ropes and screaming for help and at each other and tying knots and pulling lines and cold wet drives home to eat takeaway and try it all again the next day.
As this is our first boat, and as our level of sailing skills could be described as amatuer at best, it might be a bit of time before we make it over to Adelaide.
We heard another interesting story about her today, a freind of the old owner was telling us how once about ten years ago, the old owner and his freind were sailing to king Island, and they got caught in the bass straight in 80 knot winds! Location: Adelaide Here's a couple photo's of my engine and the begining of my boat restoration . Frosty Previous Member   I think it really nice that you used your Father tools as a decorative feature in the lounge. Location: Australia Beaut collection Lazyjack, reckon your Dad must have bought half that stuff off Noah. Location: maine i've got a similar (though smaller) shelf unit in the shop. Sometimes I do it the slow way just because I have time and the tools are so quiet and friendly. On the shelf below the bowsaw, second tool from the right is a planelike tool with a curved handle on the end, and another one two shelves below it. Frosty Previous Member   Lazy judging by the height of your bicycle seat, I am guessing you are vertically challenged. Have you noticed that in most photographs of Lazies he has somewhere in the photo some underpants. It's called The Boat House and it is the place for serious wooden boat owners and collectors.
Check out what's happening at our boat shop by going to Boat Shop Log, Photo Gallery and Boatworks Events. At Hall's Boat Corporation, we believe it is essential to match the right boat with the right owner.
The Lodging’s at Hall's Boat Corporation offers discriminating boaters the ideal Lake George vacation package that includes three distinctive classic Adirondack-style lake houses, full membership privileges at Hall's Boating Club during your stay and use of a boat slip up to 23 ft (fees do apply).
From a full-service marina with all the standard services you'd expect—plus a few extras you might not expect, such as concierge service to prepare your boat for excursions, to charming Adirondack-style lodging accommodations, Hall's Boating Club offers an unparalleled experience for our members. Hall's Boatworks is not a production boat shop, churning out wooden boat after wooden boat of the same design.
Our crew is experienced in preserving the integrity of classic wooden boat design as well as employing contemporary design and current construction trends. They have this cool plunge circular saw, but at $1,200 bucks, it better select and stack the lumber it's cutting too. Every other I've used, you could stall the motor by leaning on the tool aggressively, leaving a useless vibrating sissy. Nothing looks as good as a hand rubbed piano and no power sander will produce this finish, though Festool may soon market one for $2,400 bucks that comes close. Even my (handheld) power planer has a reduced clearance wood base - the aluminum bases have far too much clearance behind the cutters - I use mine for cutting the rolling bevels for glued planks, the base is extended both sides to rest on the earlier planks. What you need to keep in mind in considering them is that they for the most part are designed as a system. Their dust extractors work in conjunction with all of their tools (except the drills) and make an amzing difference. The first few times you had at it, you probably could barely please yourself, but with practice and some guidance, you managed to impress one or two prom dates.
I propose to strip the fiber glass from the out side of the hull, sand and fill with epoxy then recoat with epoxy and paint. So, I think you will have to strip the inside of the hull back to wood if you do want to epoxy.

Depending on how bad this is, to strip all this off, to remove rot, to replace wood and recoat could all be a lot harder than starting from scratch, or at least starting from a simple ply boat in good condition that is not already fiberglassed..
I also happen to have a total of 3 of the type on engine that was in this boat, one fully restored, one running and another part way through restoration (they are an Australian pre WWII two-stroke).
Plastics used as a coating, sometimes reinforced with a fabric, lock the mosture content in the wood. My opinion is that soild wood will try to breath, even if it is prevented from doing so with epoxy, it will eventually as the fasteners and the ajoining pieces move and break the coating. My boat has an old stuart turner 8 hp two stroke, within the same ball park age, and it runs beautifully.
Sounds like the end result is going to be worth it though, I would love to have a sail on her if you ever bring her to Adelaide.
Current timber on frames is 25mm thick unsure of what was used, transom seemed to be a single slab around 1200x600x25mm. The guy telling the story said that the fastest wind he had been in was 40 knots, and this was cause enough for some rather desperate prayers to a god he may not even have believed in. Nested in the "picturesque" website of Hall's Boat Corporation, The Boat House is a place to indulge in your love for wooden boats. Our experts can work with you to find a boat that suits the way you will use it—from the water you'll be on, to the number of passengers you'll carry, to the activities you'll do with and in it, to how you will board it, and more.
Instead, for wooden boat construction, we work with knowledgeable clients to develop designs for fully custom, one-off boats-unique from the keel to the fittings-that suit their desires and aesthetics. This balance allows them to construct wooden boats with a sensibility to the manner in which they are used today. Watered it all down and attacked it with the 3M pads (medium) which have done the most to help me feel like I'm getting somewhere. The transom and a some framing need replacing as well as the deck and floor, everything I replace I intend to epoxy and paint. Impact resistance on a plywood hull will be greatly increased if the fiberglas is installed on the inside, not the outside of the hull shell.
Encapsulation runs the risk of trapping water inside the plywood or solid lumber when a scratch goes unrepaired.
At first this is good, but soon the boat begins to loosen her joints and screws from use and mosture gets into the nearly completly sealed wood parts. Many woods, especially hardwoods will shead a coating of plastic pretty quick, with just the internal stresses and surface checks that are the nature of them.
I currently sail out of the RSAYS on a 36 and 40 footer, one day I'll upgrade from my stink boat to something a litlle more graceful. I'm not after the best quality just something that will do the job, wouldn't mind something a little more decorative for transom though as I wan't to leave the natural wood exposed (covered in epoxy of course). I've actually used the weight of my body against one, without it bitching a lick, still cutting and never stalling.
I was wondering if the paint will need to be stripped from the inside of the hull and frames then coated in epoxy or if I can just repaint the inside of the hull. The thing with woodrot is that if you are going to take it out, once you start you have to follow it to the end and beyond. With little room for the water to exscape and dry the piece out, the area becomes a rot maginet. With only a small exit point, though the point of entry, mosture doesn't stabilize like it would in a non-coated piece. Once the corrosion is removed, I'd like to keep them in a polished state for as long as possible. I would go for machine polishing, you know what I mean, using an industrial polishing machine. And once you have removed a certain amount of a panel or strut, it becomes logical- and financially cheaper, to replace the whole bit of wood, rather than fill with expensive epoxy. It's dog chassing it's own tail, the cricle gets tighter and tighter until something gives. Epoxy over paint is a very costly way of painting, when a new coat of paint will do as much good. Their shop vacuum is also a great product, but again the price suggests the third Reich is attempting a pay back. From the sound of it, you have quite a bit of rot that you know about, and most probably more that you do not.
Actually, even on the less oxidized area, Noxon does very little to help and can't understand why the company would even recommend it's use for bronze.
I burned out one Home Depot type that I had rigged to the sander, but the Festool is quiet, turns on and off with the sander and uses a bag.

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