Location: Washington State Drift Boat Designs Our company makes CNC-cut kits to Sam Devlin's designs.
The way I see it, a modern drift boat has the following limitations.The radical rocker means deep draft.
To manage hobby-horsing and enable forgiving loading, about one-third to one-half of the bottom is flat fore-and-aft, similar rocker to the Rapid Robert. The motor has a splashwell to preclude water coming aboard while running rapids, but the transom notch is an option and can be covered with a snap-on section of canvas for more serious river use. I realize that a v-hull (even one with only 4° of deadrise) is unconventional in a driftboat, but I think that the versatility gained make this idea worth a look. Location: Washington State What elements of drift boat design can't be compromised?
Location: Washington Well, in the first place, drift boats were never intended to be used in open water, in fact most drift boats do not have positive floTation and should never be used in open water.
I don't mean to sound flippant, but if negative flotation were an inviolable design criteria, wood would be an unsuitable driftboat material. I can see the merits of having a capsized driftboat sink (as opposed to floating to the ocean) but I'm having a hard time considering that a safety attribute. Hussong Previous Member   What have you learned about the inclusion of a 4 degree bow deadrise and its ability to eliminate slapping? I figure the boat is still fairly light and large and will thus catch a lot of force from the water.
I've been knocked off a SOT kayak a couple times in classII or III and managed to hop back on at next semi-flat stretch, because my boat and me were floating along together. Location: Washington Not the ones I've seen that are actually used as drift boats on rivers.

The Coast Guard indicated that Drifter would probably qualify for the exemption, but given her dual purpose as a protected-water utility skiff, I'd like to keep the flotation. My advice for any drift boat designer is to ignore what others have done and just look at how the boat is rowed and what type of river you'll be rowing. Location: USA Sorry if this is OT, but you bring up what many of have experienced in drifting situations. I've also been knocked off SOT, and have to walk some thin rapids and negotiate obstacles in my drift. Sizes from 3 man down to 7# one man on the pontoon type, and no climbing in and out, marinating your feet in muddy water, or launch ramp needed. Originally Posted by Squidly-Diddly I'm thinking more like get dragged and tumbled along by the rushing water. Location: Colorado I originally designed my drift boat to be self bailing, but I realized that I didn't allow enough leg room.
I've done many rivers in the mountain west with a 14.5' Prijon Yukon Expedition kayak and the BLM has never given me grief at any put-in.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Drift boats evolved through stages like the Rapid Robert, which although not especially attractive, were quite useful and versatile.
The back half is almost flat, but first three feet or so of the bow has a pronounced V to go through a chop when crabbing or lake fishing.
Feedback I've gotten is that it's a maintenance problem to be avoided, but the CG limits the nameplate HP at 2 without it.
A SOT is faster if you have a lot of paddling to do, but not as stable nor can it be operated in hands free mode.

If a well designed SOT were to have serviceable hatches and lashing systems for the deck, I don't see why one could not go where I have gone. The original river boats were just a basic low-sided, wide-transom, flat bottom skiff with no rocker to speak of.
Dude would have to be a real great paddler with that raised center of gravity in Class 3and up, but it could be done.
Flat bottom boats, which are also referred to as Jon Boats, are among the easiest to construct.
Area boatbuilders such as Hindman, Kaarhaus and Pruitt gradually put in more rocker and narrower transoms to make the boats useful in the class III and IV rapids in the upper reaches of the McKenzie and Rogue rivers. The high stem and transom generally preclude using a motor, and the rocking action will guarantee that the prop either spends a lot of time out of the water, or the powerhead under.
It can be equipped with a 5 hp outboard and exhibit good open water performance at up to 6 knots in a moderate chop without unnecessary pounding.
It does that trick (traversing class III rapids) exceptionally well, but many of us don't fish in those rivers. One also does not have to carry all their drinking water if one shows that they have a serviceable, approved filter. Fire pans are also negotiable, but are size limited, so it's wise to make sure your boat can handle the physical shape. There are folding table products on the market for solo adventures that are more than adequate.

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