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Kia Orana, Rarotonga is a popular island holiday destination for Kiwis and has an impressive tourism infrastructure for an island of its size. The island has accommodation to suit a backpacker budget and beyond, self contained rental accommodation is plentiful and there are good quality resorts and luxury villas. Language: Cook Islands Maori (15 dialects spoken over the 15 islands that make up the Cooks), English is widely spoken.
Population: Approximately 13,097 on Rarotonga, total population around 17,791 (2011 Census information).
Transport: Public buses, scooters, cars, bicycles, some taxis although more the phone and book variety. Banks: ANZ, Westpac and Bank of the Cook Islands, there are a number of ATM's on the island.
Water: If you've got a strong constitution you might like to drink tap water (boil it first), we went for the bottled variety just incase. Time: 22 hours behind NZ, leave on a Tuesday afternoon flight, arrive early am Tuesday morning. Mosquitos: I'm a mosquito beacon but they weren't an issue in the coastal area, although I may have been lucky. Avarua is Rarotonga's small town centre and has the usual facilities like banks, Foodland for groceries, souvenir shops, a pharmacy, cafes, bars and Empire Movie Theatre.
We didn't visit during opening hours but if you're interested in reading about the Cook Islands during your stay the library will have books that aren't available in libraries back home, some books may also be for sale. Island Living is a stylish home ware and gift store selling aprons, jewellery, cushions, table cloths and coconut oils. Black pearls are an important means of income for the Cook Islands and a unique souvenir for visitors. TAV is a Rarotongan fashion label and has a store in Beachcomber Gallery in Avarua, there's also a store at 937 Mt Eden Road in Auckland. Ukuleles are a popular choice, they're sold in shops in Avarua, and made by prisoners and sold in the Prison Craft Shop in Arorangi (currently only ukuleles and postcards are sold). Perfumes of Rarotonga sell handmade perfumes, a range of body care products, perfumed candles, liqueurs and Noni juice.
Take a taste of Atiu home with you - Atiu Coffee is sold to restaurants in Rarotonga, you can buy a cup at the market on Saturday and order via the website ($50 minimum). On a Captain Tama's cruize you can snorkel out near the reef in Muri Lagoon (best snorkelling of our trip), eat a BBQ fish and salad lunch on the beach and learn how to *tie a pareu (sarong). Aroa was our second best snorkelling spot after Captain Tama's cruize (if you stay at The Rarotonga Beach Resort & Spa it's your snorkelling patch). Edgewater Resort & Spa offer fish feeding and snorkelling as part of their activity schedule.
Muri Lagoon is a beautiful setting and it's a good spot for paddle boarding and kayaking. A few sources note lagoon pollution including The Cook Island News (WATSAN project moving ahead). You'll see a small sign on a power pole for Wigmore's Waterfall near the shell of a hotel that would have been part of the Sheraton chain had it been completed. There are two roads that circle Rarotonga, the coastal road Ara Tapu (Sacred Road, 32km) and the inland road Ara Metua (Ancient Road, 29km). They might not have the Harley badge but motorised two wheels are the preferred ride for plenty of locals and visitors. A clockwise and anticlockwise bus runs around the island - $4 one way, $7 return or buy a 10 trip ticket for $20. Cook Islands Game Fishing Club, Tupapa (open from 1pm Monday - Saturday, visitors welcome). For those self catering CITC Supermarket is located half way between the airport and Avarua. Colourful Kikau Hut is owned and operated by a very hospitable Kiwi couple originally from Ashburton. We recommend booking a table at Spaghetti House as it's part of the large Edgewater Resort. Tamarind is located in a restored colonial style house by the sea, a couple of minutes drive from Avarua.
We didn't dine at Alberto's but if you enjoy a steak and like big portions it gets good reviews. If Cafe Salsa could dance its way across the Pacific and onto the coffee filled streets of Auckland or Wellington it would be serious competition in the best cafe stakes.
Order your fish 'n' chips from the cute blue and white boat that sits on the sand, a few steps from the sea.
If you're looking for something light like a pastry, paw paw muffin or sandwich, Le Bon Vivant is a good option. Cook Islands Tours take visitors through local homes to enjoy home cooked food and learn a little about how local people live.
Cocktail happy hours are offered all around the island, Crown Beach Resort & Spa in Arorangi was one of our happy hour cocktail stops. Roadhouse Bar & Grill north of Edgewater Resort is a casual bar popular with the locals. Trader Jacks Bar & Grill overlooks the harbour in Avarua, it's a Rarotongan institution that's made more than one comeback after cyclone damage. Whatever Bar & Grill in Avarua is a relaxed rooftop bar and has happy hour 4pm-6pm, Monday - Friday.


Barefoot Bar - Sink your toes in the sand at Barefoot Bar (part of Pacific Resort) on Muri beach. Edgewater is the largest resort on the island, it's family friendly and has a free Kid's Club.
There were tea and coffee making facilities, flat screen TV, bar fridge, an air conditioning unit (a bit noisy but didn't bother us too much) and an in room safe (you might think it doesn't work, it probably does, persevere with the instructions). There's a swimming pool, tennis courts and games room, plus a schedule of daily activities, most are free.
We went to a drumming session and tapped out a few tunes, but it's You Tube who can show you how it's really done. The following is a random list of accommodation options with the exception of The Cooks Oasis Holiday Villas - a well priced self contained property recommended to us by fellow Kiwis. Cook Islands Visitor Guide, pick them up at the airport or get them sent to you in advance.
Papa Mike's Cook Islands Handbook (there's one copy at an Auckland library, you can reserve it free of charge if you're a member). Me'a Kai - The Food and Flavours of the South Pacific (Facebook) by Robert Oliver with Dr Tracy Berno and Shiri Ram. It was our first trip to Rarotonga and we were surprised and impressed by the tourism infrastructure and the number and quality of accommodation options.
There is a list of 'Island nights' above, you could email the associated resorts and ask if it's possible to get a small group to do a private show.
Sorry for the delay in replying, first up I'd enquire at your accommodation option as they may rent out scooters and helmets or alternatively know of somewhere close by that does. ON the eve of her 100th national league game this weekend, we caught up with in-form West Coast Fever goal shooter Caitlin Bassett as part of the weekly `My First Memories’ feature series. Born and raised in Perth, Bassett played with the Perth Orioles for three seasons in the former Commonwealth Bank Trophy and was part of the Fever’s original ANZ Championship squad in 2008. The 24-year-old has been part of the Australian Diamonds squad since 2008 and was a member of their 2011 World Championship-winning team. My memory of my first game … I had to sit out of my first game because a teammate had pushed me over at training and I had my wrist in a cast! My memory of my first game of representative netball … I was only young (11 or 12 years old) when I made my first rep team. At 32km in circumference it's relatively small, and you can drive the flat, coastal road in around 45 minutes. Others may be Mormons, followers of the Baha'i Faith, Seventh Day Adventists or Jehovah Witnesses. Casual dress is the way to go although if you intend to go to church pack something smart. It's best to go prepared, if you explore the island's mountainous interior you definitely need repellent. You'll also find the Police Station where you can get your local drivers licence - BYO pen, fill in the form, show your current drivers licence, get your photo taken and pay $20 for one year or $60 for five. You can also buy souvenirs like colourful bags, t-shirts and pareu (sarongs) and sample local dishes like rukau (includes taro leaves and coconut cream) and ika mata (a raw fish dish). Tours of the Atiu plantation and factory, along with coffee tasting can be organised by request. We recommend the trip for a seriously good laugh and equally good snorkelling (weather dependent), available 7 days. We parked next to the sign for Aroa Horse Riding, the water was clear and calm, the beach sandy and there's some trees for shade. We went snorkelling once and there were a few fish around but it's certainly worth going out on a boat cruise to get closer to the reef, although reviewers also suggest heading out around the small motu (islands).
We didn't drive on Ara Metua for a long distance but if you want to see farmland and get a bit closer to the mountainous interior of the island you might like to make the detour. If you're going to worry about whether taxis will be waiting it's just as easy to book a transfer - see Useful Facts above. We ordered chicken satay as an entree, two main fish dishes, two glasses of NZ wine and lemon cake to share for dessert, the bill totalled around $90.
We visited during the day (Alberto's opens at 6pm) and were impressed with their Cook Island marketing style - there's a menu on display as well as a customer comments book. A fish 'n' chip lunch for two is $21; burgers, toasted sandwiches, a seafood platter and spring rolls are also on the menu. In Muri there's Kai Kai Time (currently for sale), there was another fish 'n' chip in the making just down the road from Kai Kai Time when we visited in June 2012. The beer is widely available on the island and tours of the brewery in Titikaveka can be arranged by request. There were too many bars and too few days for us to have a drink everywhere so Trader Jacks is on the list for next time. We tried the Island fries - taro, arrowroot and sweet potato, see the Barefoot Bar link for happy hour information. The resort had a stay 5 pay 3 deal for garden rooms (deal has been extended and now includes other room types, see link above). Activities can include fish feeding, water volleyball, ukulele and drumming lessons, and sarong making and tying. We also attended an informal history and cultural session led by Tick Daniel's and highly recommend it. Tiare Films can film your special day and their website includes a Wedding Services Directory.


A large (493 page), colourful book containing information on Pacific cuisine and recipes from various Pacific regions including The Cook Islands.
Alternatively, enquire via cookislands.travel and ask if small group cultural shows are an option. You could contact The Cook Islands on Facebook and ask there or follow the link to the website and send an email - they'll know for sure. Kelly Jones and Sue Scott and it was quite funny because by the age of 13 I was taller than them! But a couple of weeks later we played against the Mystics and it was so exciting to play against a New Zealand team. It was 2008 and I got a phone call from (then coach) Norma (Plummer) asking if I wanted to join the Australian side on tour as Cath Cox had injured herself. Cover up when you're at the market, in town or in villages in keeping with how the locals dress.
We hired a car, if you want to hire a scooter and don't have a motorcycle licence you'll need to do a short driving test and pay an additional $5.
Music is integral to the Cook Island culture and you're sure to be entertained, we were lucky to see the two best little buskers in Polynesia perform.
Newspapers include Cook Islands News (daily, $2), The Cook Islands Herald (weekly) and Cook Islands Times (weekly). On our last day we hired another car and left it at the airport ($15 charge, drop the keys at the airport office). Staff were delightful and served one of my favourite dishes of the trip - a smoked chicken and tropical fruit salad with a honey and lime dressing.
Add a beer from the Game Fishing Club at the same location (happy hour 4pm-7pm daily, large beer $5.50, small $3, wine $4 a glass).
Also in Arorangi is Sunset Resort, happy hour from 2pm - 4pm in The Anchorage Restaurant & Bar, cocktails $9-$10. The room was clean and serviced daily, the decor and some fittings could be upgraded to improve the room but we had no complaints.
Whilst we didn't stay, we did go to Drum Beat Bar for happy hour and the photos on the website are representative of the exterior of the property. I could play in defence or shoot and, being a head taller than all the other kids helped a lot.
We played against the Swifts and I played on Liz Ellis who at the time was captain of the Australian team. There's also a free Cook Islands Sun Visitor Guide (published twice a year and distributed around town). The crew will swap the ukuleles for a coconut or two and give a coconut husking and tree climbing demo, and finish with a hilarious coconut show. The popularity of the lagoon is also no doubt contributing to the decline of healthy coral and fish life.
The maximum speed limit is 50km, it's 40km in towns and villages and if you ride a motorbike or scooter and travel over 40km you need to wear a helmet. The coastal road is in good condition, the only danger may be a wandering bird or animal. In Tonga and Samoa taxis drive around looking for business, this isn't the case in Rarotonga, they're the phone and book variety. Sausages from $6.50 a kilo (I've read that Prime Foods sell good quality meat at reasonable prices).
The $88 bill included a garlic bread, two glasses of NZ wine, two mains and a lovely lemon sour cream cake to share for dessert.
Edgewater Resort & Spa has cocktail happy hour every day from 5pm - 6pm in Mal's Bar, cocktails $10. It was the first time I had ever trialed for a team and it was scary - I never liked netball trials. It's a challenge for us all as tourists, tourism operators and local populations to preserve our environment but also benefit from the economic advantages that tourism brings, especially to countries like the Cook Islands where tourism is a major income earner. We dubbed the March the last resort car - it didn't like reverse, had a rattly exhaust, plenty of body dings and clunking sounds came from underneath, but it was worth twice the price for the laughs we had in it. Dinner for two including NZ wine, one garlic bread, two mains, one dessert and coffee came to $62. It's in a bush setting and reviewers note the mosquitos and the possibility of a water trickle rather than a waterfall.
He went on to father 17 or 23 children (depending on the source) and died in 1899 at age 78 with 54 grand children. Captain Tama's website has information about their environmental contribution and clam repopulation initiative. Harley Davidson island tours were once offered, but not longer, might be an opportunity there for a Harley rider who could get used to island life. As visitors we can dispose of rubbish responsibly, avoid standing on coral and take short showers to help conserve water and reduce waste water.



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