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My effort was inspired by Dan's post on the Totally Triumph Network forums and further detail was gleaned from his own restoration website. My engine stands were purchased at Harbor Freight for $49 and are rated at 1,000 lbs apiece. To keep welding spatter out of the swivels while installing the castors, I simply wrapped a nylon wire tie around the swivel to protect the bearings. Fixed wheels are fine for an engine stand, but to maneuver a body tub on two stands, all wheels must be free to move independently as Dan stated.
I'm going to provide some measurements that I used, but be sure to double check your own mounting measurements to confirm that they will also work for you.
The stand that supports the front of the tub needs to have an angle iron section about 36" in length. Again, following Dan's instructions, I created two extension supports that will be bolted and welded to the 47" length of angle iron that will make up the rear suppport mechanism. Take care to make certain that the support extensions and angle iron are positioned as snugly as possible together before marking the spots for drilling. Before I painted everything, I fit the rear extentions and the lateral brace to the rear end once more, to mark the exact spots on the lateral brace (angle iron) where I wanted to weld the additional supports to keep the extensions from moving laterally.
I'm not sure if this will help or not, but when I was drilling the support extensions (as shown above), I stamped them R for right and L for left with my metal stamping kit to make certain that when everything was assembled, it would fit correctly, allowing for minute differences in the fit on both sides. After welding the braces in, everything that wasn't already primered was primed and painted. The rear brace, when fully assembled with the engine stand face plate attached, is pretty heavy and awkward to heft, so I placed a floor jack under one side while I bolted the other in place. After checking to make sure everything was aligned, I tightened up the extensions first to the floor, then on the lateral brace. The only thing left to do was drill two more holes in the lower brace that connects the stands together to create one, cohesive apparatus. I've had some unique problems in getting this stand to allow me to lay the car directly on it's side without the stand connection brace really wanting to flex if it could.
Another challenge I faced is that the lower support arms of the engine stands are also tilted at an angle.
That means, when I ran the angle iron across them both, once the bolts were tightened, the center set of wheels wanted to lift off the ground. As an experiment, I tried placing a floor jack under middle of the brace to see if I could raise it high enough to make the engine plates perpendicular, which left the inside wheels dangling in the air by about six inches, but I was uncomfortable with this solution.
What I ended up doing for now was this: I cut the vertical rib of the angle iron at each end where it meets the end of each engine stand (about a foot overlaps the stand on the other side of the cut) and bent the angle iron to close the gap at the top of the cuts.

I then created a long vertical slot on the other side of the angle iron where it mounts to the rear stand and used just one bolt that's not locked down terribly tight, which allows the stand to pivot in order to compensate for the lack of perpendicularity, thus allowing the tub to rest straight up and down. In the last decades, the importance of historical buildings due to cultural and economical reasons caused a large increase in studies involving ancient building technologies and materials. But until Dan Canaan came along, nobody seemed very keen on sharing the process of constructing one for the rest of us.
Dan's stands have three legs, whereas mine have four, which I hope will provide a bit more stability. Knowing that my bumper mounting holes on the floor were 43" apart, I had already drilled holes that same distance apart in the angle iron, remember? The only thing left is to weld brackets for the length of angle iron that will tie both stands together along the bottom. I'm not positive that this will be my permanent solution, but I think I'm on the right track. I found it necessary to loosen the two bolts that attach the extensions to the lateral brace in order to line all the holes up in the trunk floor with the extensions underneath. I've been trying to figure out who to call to have help me lift the tub off the chassis to affix to the engine stands. Full 360 rotation is not possible, but close to full 180 degree rotation in either direction is, and that's good enough for me.
Always wear your seatbelt while driving -- and that goes double for your children if you have any.
Clay brick, in its forms of sun dried and burnt, has been around since the beginning of civilization, ten thousand years ago. I didn't pay close enough attention and purchased 2" square tube stock instead of retangular tube stock like he used. If I'm not careful and fail to chock those castors, my tub might end up over the side of the embankment in my yard where the driveway bends, or worse still, racing down the driveway and then down the hilly street below. This will mate with the mounting holes on the front of the tub where it bolts to the front outriggers on the frame. I temporarily fitted the brackets (as shown above) to test fit the contraption and see where I need to drill holes through the ends of the brackets for bolting and welding to the angle iron. I may just opt to drill two holes a few inches apart on the bottom part of each stand instead and use bolts (I have since definitely decided to opt for this method). Although it's time consuming to keep fitting and removing, fitting and removing, the end results of knowing that it's all going to fit and work out in the end makes the extra effort well worth it. One more trip to Home Depot, where I'll also pick up another four bolts to attach the angle iron that will be used to connect (and thus stabilize) the rotisserie along the bottom center.

For another, I realized I'd need left hand threaded rods and left handed nuts to build the things and decided that this would be far too labor instensive. On Saturday, Ken, myself and a couple of other men will lift the tub off the chassis (already unbolted) and slide the rear engine plate into one stand.
Another option would be to take two narrow steel rods and insert them through both sets of wheels in the front and back. I even thought about purchasing a winch or something similar to affix to the roof rafters in my garage to do the whole thing myself. I've also decided to modify my plans for that brace since I've discovered to my utter delight that the tub should in fact rotate a full 360 degrees once the lower brace (which is presently angle iron) bolted to the top of the stands (thereby sticking up a couple of inches) is replaced with square tube stock that will be bolted to welded on brackets at the foot of each engine stand. It was easily produced, lighter than stone, easy to mould and formed a wall that was fire resistant and durable. I needed the welding practice, so I decided to first weld on the mounting plates with the intention of drilling holes through it and mounting the castors the same way the factory swivel castors are mounted. After cleaning the various bits with thinner, I sprayed them all with black primer (any color would do, but that was my preference) and followed it up with a spray of orange paint from Home Depot.
We'll probably rest the front end on sawhorses while I bolt on the front brace unless we have enough manpower to hold up the front end for a moment or two.. But the easiest method was to give my UPS driver (I have a regular account) and his Christmas assistant a few buck each to help me and my son heft the tub.
Or, I might simply cut the angle stock down to fit and use it in the lower position instead. Actually, everything was fine, but my range of tub rotation was limited significantly by the fact that the engine plate mount is tilted downward slightly. The usage of brick masonry, often in combination with stone masonry and timber roof, or floors, is well distributed all over the world. But again, my desire to practice welding and save time (no holes to drill, no hardware to buy) caused me to weld the castor mounting plates to the new stand plates.
My only reservation is that the tube stock may not be strong enough, but I think that it probably is for the intended purpose. Note the sloping lower extensions on the stands in the photo above and also how the yoke for the engine plates slope downward as well. If a wheel breaks, I'll have to do a lot of grinding to remove it and will be cursing my impatient decision to weld instead of bolt, but I feel pretty confident that the casters will hold up just fine.

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