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admin 01.03.2014

I've started this thread as a place for everyone that ordered my 3d printed Doctor Who props to share their tips, techniques, results, etc.
For instructions on putting them together, refer to the first post in the Affordable Doctor Who Props INT thread - after each listing is the basic physical model assembly diagram.
The WSF material will have light dusting on it so be sure to brush, blow, air-in-a-can, whatever to get it off.
The FUD clear material, on the other hand, should be washed in water with mild hand or dish soap before you use it. Most of the kits have everything you need for a physical, static prop, except for the 9th and 10th extending sonics. I did not include these with the kits (noted in the order section) since I was unable to perfect the implementation, but there is a way to do it, I'm sure.
If you want a cool metallic color finish, paint the clear Tamiya over a metallic silver Testors enamel - that's how I did the emitter bullet on the 8th Doctor's sonic! I drafted some up for the 3rd, 9th, 10th and River Song models that can be printed on adhesive paper of your choice and applied to the area that are to be protected from paint. For those who ordered electronics packages, there are no specific directions to make them glow. If you ordered a 9th or 10th Doctor's sonic with electronics package, they were designed specifically to house an A27 12V battery inside the inner housing. The front inside head of the 9th Aztec, 9th, 10th and River sonic are all designed to fit a 5mm LED just behind the lens. All of the sonics that come with electronics kits have housing for a typical tactile push switch.
EDIT: I've decided to add a gallery of finished props in this first post so people can see them without having to sort through the thread! I only did one test with spray paint, no prepping on the surface, and it showed the surface texture much more prominently than brushing. For those wooden parts, I actually just painted in the direction of the grain with an acrylic paint, like the Ceramcoat brand.


For the acrylic rod we need to get for it, I assume that since it's acrylic rod that means its solid and we'll need to drill a hole down through the center of it for the wires to pass through. For the record, the River Song sonics DO come with the thin acrylic rod needed for the read section that runs from the pinky ring to the base of the head below the 'trigger' area.
I only did one test with spray paint, no prepping on the surface, and it showed the surface texture much more prominently that brushing. Whether you are in the UK or overseas we want you to receive your order quickly and safely. Try framing your poster or print to give your room a touch of class, choose from various frame types and colours. I'm starting it off with a few tips I picked up along the way and hopefully there will be many more. If you ordered an electronics kit with your's (as most of you did) it'll come in a separate bag with the same marking so you know which goes with which prop. I wouldn't recommend washing them as they're not water tight the way injected plastics are, but a damp cloth wipe would be fine.
There will be a waxy residue on these parts, and they'll even feel a bit waxy when you first touch it, so this is highly recommended that you clean them for proper paint adhesion. If you are unable, the pieces included in the kit are enough to make a static variation of each of those sonics. For the WSF plastic, Ceramcoat acrylic paints (or any acrylic paint really) adhere pretty well. The kits were designed to give as much flexibility as possible, and with plenty of room for wires, batteries, LED's, chips, etc. For the 9th and 10th variations, there is just enough room for the LED behind the cabochon if you opted for that for the lens instead of the FUD, so the LED leads will need to be wired so they fit fully inside of the shaft that leads from the top portion of the head to the bottom portion of the head. I prefer brushed because it gives more control to cover the insides of certain pieces that are tough to get to with spray paint, but the paint didn't react poorly in my test. If you're using acrylic paint you might just need more coats to settle into the strokes, but with the enamels I used on most of these, it settles nicely, usually into the texture to smooth the look a bit.


It just so happened that the paint would have needed a few coats for full coverage, so one coat brushed directionally got that nice wood grain look!
I used a drill press with a special bit - the cheapest model press from Home Depot managed to get a clean hole after a few tries. That was easy enough to cut with an x-acto blade so I didn't have issues mass producing them (not to mention only 4 of those sonics were ordered). I found most of my info from a forum that discussed various drilling and cutting methods with acrylic. All of our photographic prints are printed to order on photographic quality paper – choose an alternative size from the drop down menus.
The material can be sanded, but as it's built from a power based plastic, the texture itself will be the same as you sand. I've read other tips that suggest placing the FUD part on a paper towel under a low heat source (like a lamp or on top of a window sill or car dash in the sun) so the remaining wax residue will melt away, then place it fully submerged in an acetone (nail polish remover) bath for 10-15 minutes, and let dry thoroughly. I've also used Testor's, but truth be told, no paint has reacted poorly thus far with the WSF. If you didn't order an elec kit, these housings were typically left out of the model except for those that conceal the button within - like the Master's laser screwdriver and the alternate 8th Doctor's sonic. Any longer than 15 minutes in the heat and it is said to get softer and are more likely to warp. It helps to drill into it a few mm at a time and pull back on it to give things a few seconds to cool so the friction doesn't get to be too much and melt the plastic - it's not very complicated, it just might take a few tries to get it right. You don't need a special blade to chop it, just need to follow the same rules to not overheat things.



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