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To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. I have never installed one or known anybody that had one but my brother was looking at them too. The one you actually want uses a bypass sensor and pump installed at the farthest fixture that cycles the pump based on water temp in the bypass tube.
1) On the cold water IN on the Hot Water tank, a flow switch is installed that turns on when it detects flow.
2) A Delay-Off timer turns the pump on immediately when the Flow Switch turns on, but does not turn off the pump for a while after the flow switch is turned off.
3) An aquastat is used to turn off the pump when the farthest faucet in the loop reaches temp. When the hot water is turned on, the pump comes on and hot water arrives very quickly (but not instantly).
I put a recirculating system in my house about 20 years ago, and installed one for a neighbor down the street a couple months back. I used essentially the same pump that jjjedlic is talking about, but got it at a plumbing supply where it can be purchased without the timer. The alternative is that I could configure my Home Automation system to manually activate the circ system just prior to water use. The main thing the delay-off switch does for you is allows you to momentarily turn on the Hot Water to get the system going.

No -- the system pressure isn't an issue because the pressure is the same on both sides of the pump.
Note: If this is your first time commenting on Style News Now, your comment will need to be approved by our moderator before it will appear. I used to love VS but it got to the point where its just too expensive to shop there and I wasn’t comfortable not everybody has a models body.
The product that you mentioned appears to make your current hot water tank operate as if it were an on demand tank.
Then install a bypass under the farthest sink that allows the water to flow back to the tank through the cold water line. It only uses about 23 watts when it's running, and it only takes about 15 to 20 seconds to get the hot water through the 60 feet or so of pipe between the WH and the shower valve farthest from it.
If I were on well water, it would save even more because I wouldn't be paying to pump the water that is getting run down the drain waiting for the water to get hot. If it were, you would probably be experiencing some problems like a leaky T&P valve, pipe hammering, etc. Check out the company’s full statement below, then tell us: What do you think of the latest Angel drama? Too many times water is getting run through the pipes when it's not needed and will cool off, increasing your water heating costs too much. It doesn't save energy, but it DOES save water, along with the convenience of not having to wait for hot water.

If you think it's that high, buy a $5 pressure guage from a local hardware store and check it.
Instead, I installed a 30 minute wind-up switch in each bathroom (the 2 switches are wired in parallel) to control the pump.
With the wind-up switches controlling mine, it only runs when it's need and I don't have to worry about it ever getting left on.
There is no reason to have more than 50 to 60 psi, and more than that will create problems. First thing in the morning, it takes about 30 seconds for the pump to get hot water to the shower.
Without the recirc system, my neighbors are running water for almost 3 minutes to get hot water to the same shower. With the cost of the unit, a slight increase in heating hot water, and depending what you pay for water, it may take it many years to pay for itself.
In the 20 years my system has been in place it has paid for itself 2 or 3 times over in water savings. At only 23 watts for the pump, running it 30 minutes a day, it's using about 25 cents a YEAR in electricity.

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