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GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 7MAYTAG "NEWTON" MACHINES (for Maytag Performa and Atlantis models,see Chapter 7a)NOTE: Chapter 2 covers problems common to almost all washer designs. This item will be sent through the Global Shipping Programme and includes international tracking.
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This means that all dryers have to have a blower to move air and a heat source to warm the air, and that airflow is very important. If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!7-1 BASIC OPERATIONThe design uses a reversing motor, which is belted to both the pump and the transmission, using two different belts.
If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. It also means that all dryers must have a way to toss the clothes around a bit, because air won't circulate through them if they're just laying there in a big wet lump. One inch of ice in 3 days !!!It wasreal windy most of the day and I spent more time in the EskimoQuick Fish 3.The two holes in the shelter provided some steady action for perch and bluegills. When viewed from the top, the motor turns clockwise for the agitation cycle, and counterclockwise for the spin cycle. The death lull kicked in around1230 and fishing picked back up again at 3pm.I landed the usual residents of the lake-- a few trout, afew nice crappies, perch and gills.
During agitation, the brake keeps the transmission casing from turning, and the drive pulley turns the transmission shaft. During the spin cycle, the brake releases and the whole transmission starts slowly spinning around. Ignitor systems and holding coils on the gas safety valves have varied slightly over the years, but you can find the diagnosis and repair procedures for all gas burners covered by this manual in section 2-3. A temperature control system keeps the air at the optimum temperature for drying and prevents scorching of your clothes.
At the end of the spin cycle, the motor stops and the brake brings the basket to a stop. In the late '80's, Maytag redesigned the transmission. The result is the "orbital" transmission, which has just a few moving parts and is serviceable in the machine. Finding the thermostats is discussed in the chapter pertaining to your model. There is also a safety system that prevents the heating system from starting at all unless the blower is turning. Plenty ofpanfish with a few perch hitting the 9-inch mark and a crappie thatwas almost 10 inches.I caught trout sporadically throughout the day, ending with 9.
Springs attached to the motor mounting plate keep tension on the belts. The pump reverses with the motor, but there is no recirculation. Over a period of years, enough can build up enough to allow some of the above symptoms to occur.
Follow the safety precautions described in section 1-4(2).To open the front of the cabinet, remove the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. The airflow system is discussed in section 2-5, except for drum seals, which are discussed in the chapter pertaining to your brand of dryer. In most models, the blower is the last component in the airflow system.
In order to diagnose these machines, you need to keep the lid up far enough to look inside, without tripping the lid switch.
If you have a separate timer and temperature control, consider yourself lucky; the combined units are considerably more difficult to diagnose and generally more expensive to replace. So most repairs stem from just a few common complaints: 1) NOISY OPERATIONA vast majority of these complaints stem from drum supports that have worn out. It usually sounds like a loud, low-pitched rumbling sound that slowly gets worse over a period of several months or even years. This is a very common complaint in Whirlpool or Kenmore brand dryers about 7 to 15 years old. See the chapter about your brand for specifics about replacing the drum support rollers.   In some models, notably GE, if a belt breaks, the belt tensioner will touch the drive motor shaft and a loud grinding or clattering noise will result. This can happen in Whirlpool or Kenmore dryers, as well as some other brands, though it is infrequent. To solve the problem, open the top of ther dryer as described in the Whirlpool section, then remove the plastic vane on the inside of the dryer drum by removing the screws on the outside of the dryer drum that hold it in place. In some models, notably Maytag and Frigidaire machines, things can get by the lint screen (like pencils and pens) and get stuck in the blower wheel. Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan. Replace as described in section 7-10. With the machine in "spin," look at the pump pulley beneath the machine with a mirror.
See the section about your brand for details about how to get to the blower in your machine.2) NOT DRYING WELL(See also NO HEAT below) Usually this is caused by poor airflow. If it is spinning, but water is not pumping, check for a clog in the hose between the tub and pump. Feel the dryer vent exhaust (usually outside the house.) If there isn't a strong blast of air coming out, check the lint screen and open up any dryer vent you can get to to check for clogging. Teddy told me the lake is completed covered and the ice might be about 1 inch orso.Teddy has patrolled and lived next toAntietam Lakealmostall his life and he knows the lake. Also check any flexible dryer vent for pinching. In some machines, if the drum is not turning, there will be no noise or other external symptoms.
To diagnose, start the machine empty, open the door and look inside quickly, or depress the door switch to see if the drum is turning. If you hear the motor buzzing, but it doesn't start in either or both directions, test the capacitor (if any) and starting switch as described in sections 2-6(e) and 7-8.
To repair, see the chapter about your brand. You may see similar symptoms if the motor has gone bad, except that you probably will not hear the motor turning. If it does start with the load removed, turn the pump and transmission pulleys by hand, in both directions, to see which is locked up.
See section 2-4(d) about motors. 3) NO HEAT, OR LOW HEAT This can be caused by poor airflow in all dryers, but especially in gas dryers. Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above. This can also be caused by a problem with the air heating system within the dryer.
Note that the transmission pulley will normally be very stiff when turning it in the clockwise direction, as you look at the bottom of the washer.6) If the washer spins but does not agitate, check the agitator splines as described in section 7-11.
See section 7-13.7-4 PUMP AND PUMP BELTRemove the pump belt and check to see if the pump will turn freely by hand.
Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above.   2-3 GAS BURNERSTo access the burner assembly, open the gas burner inspection door. If it is glowing, you will hear another click, the gas valve will open and the flame will kick on.
Test as described in section 2-6(e). Maytag motors have a piggyback centrifugal starting switch.
There isplenty of rainfall predicted for that area.Most of the fish sitting in the estuary should be entering the river as I type this.
To make matters worse, the motor wire colors do not always correspond with the colors marked on the switch. Bring the burner assembly to your parts dealer to make sure you get the right coil assembly, and don't forget to bring the model number of the machine.   IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT FLAME DOES NOT START (GAS VALVE DOES NOT OPEN)(PILOTLESS SYSTEMS ONLY) Either the flame sensor is not working properly or the safety solenoid coils are not opening the gas valve. Whenever removing the motor or switch from the machine, mark which wires came off which of the switch terminals.Draw a picture if you must. Make sure you differentiate in your notes between a motor wire and a wiring harness wire of the same color, and where each goes on the switch. If the drive motor does not start, try replacing the starting switch as described in section 2-6(e).
It is an especially common problem in installations where the dryer exhaust runs a long way before venting to the outside. If the motor STILL doesn't start, replace it. To remove the motor, first remove power from the machine.

Anglers tend to give you space, the scenery is beautiful and the Osprey's always put on a show.
Remove the plastic water shield from the motor, and mark and remove the wires. Remove the drive belts. Test as described in the section above, "IGNITOR DOESN'T GLOW". Occasionally this problem can be caused by a bad thermostat. Remove the four motor baseplate screws and lift the motor and baseplate out of the machine. Installation is the opposite of removal. Make sure you check the box that the new motor comes in for a wiring diagram.7-9 TRANSMISSIONI do not recommend the novice trying to replace a transmission in a Maytag washer, for several reasons. And by the time you throw in a brake package, stem and seal kit, etc., it is usually just not worth it. If both break, there will be NO tension on the belts and in addition, the motor shaft will probably be hitting the washer baseplate, causing a heck of a racket. The roller tracks can get clogged up with dirt, soap deposits or other obstructions. Wednesday was spent in the upper fly zone and wasslow in the morning but pretty consistent in the afternoon.
Lubricate the rollers and tracks with a little wheel bearing grease. Examine the condition of each belt as described in section 2-5(a). It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.
Pump belt tension is explained in section 7-4.7-11 AGITATORMost Maytag washers have an agitator that lifts directly out. These models have a rubber stop ring around the agitator shaft at the bottom of the splines. Ialso landed a smallmouth bass, a few small brown trout, afew small rainbows (steelhead smolts ?), a fallfishand a baby AtlanticSalmon. It's not worth dying for. Sometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. The Mohawk egg pattern accounted for many smaller fish and the salmon sized Light Spruce fly produced a few hookups. It is ESPECIALLY important in diagnosing a bad timer. If you already know how to read a wiring diagram, you can skip this section. Last years--One Day Trip-- hot fly,Olive bugger with White marabou tail and redcrystal flash also received plenty of attention and did account for 2 fish. If you're one of those folks who's a bit timid around electricity, all I can say is read on, and don't be too nervous. The guyI was fishing withused plenty of flies with smaller bucktail flies doing most of the damage.
He didhook-up with a few fish while usingmy Death Stonefly, landing one nice Coho.I can tell you this---the next few weeks will provide some serious action. You learned how to use a VOM in Chapter 1, right? Each component should be labelled clearly on your diagram. There are fish in the system at this moment and with the water release at 1800 CFS and the rain. To test a switch with a certain marking, mark and disconnect all the wires from your timer. For example, in figure G-6, if you want to test the hi-temp selector switch, connect one lead to the M and one to the H terminal.
Block up the tub so the tub remains in line with the cabinet. Beneath the washer, in the center, is the brake package. The brake package changes the machine from the spin to the drain cycle and back when the motor reverses. If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit. It also brakes the spinning basket at the end of the spin cycle or when the lid is lifted. The brake lining is normally lubricated by a few drops of oil. You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet. If the lining gets too dry, it can start squeaking at the very end of the spin cycle, when it is braking the basket.
Sometimes they will be labelled L1 and N, but they are still 110 volt leads. Let's say you need to check out why the heater is not working. Since a burnt out heater element is the most likely cause of this symptom, first test the heater for continuity. This switch is located inside of the timer (you know this because it is drawn with thick lines) and it must be closed. This will help you to thread the brake package into the base plate without cross-threading it. With the tub blocked up, grab the bottom of the transmission casing and move it by hand until you can slip the brake package onto the splines. In this example, we have set the temperature on "low." Note that in this machine, on this setting, the electricity flows through both the high-temp and low-temp operating thermostats. If you don't, you will be trying to overcome brake pressure to turn the package.Turn the transmission and brake package until the brake package is hand tight in the baseplate.
The electricity then flows through the high limit thermostat, so it too must be closed and show good continuity. The electricity flows through the heater, which we have already tested and we know is good. Then the electricity flows through the centrifugal switch, which must be closed, before going back out the main power cord (L2).   To test for the break in the circuit, simply isolate each part of the system (remove the wires from the terminals) and test for continuity.
For example, to test the thermostats in our example, pull the wires off each thermostat and test continuity across the thermostat terminals as described in section 2-4(c). The Y-DB switch is shown in bold lines, so it is inside the timer.
While holding the transmission so it doesn't turn, run the drive pulley up as tight as you can by hand onto the helical shaft.You will see a drive lug on the pulley that corresponds to the shaft drive lug. However, if you can identify the proper leads, you can use your alligator jumpers to jump across them.
The pool we were fishing was loaded with suckers and chubs and I did see a few trout and a couple of nice sized smallmouth bass. You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine. Then turn the pulley gently clockwise until you just barely begin to feel the brake spring pressure.The shaft lug should be at about 9 o'clock from the pulley lug. If not, adjust the shaft lug on the splines. The idea is to get the pulley to bottom out on the helical drive shaft just as the drive lugs touch. It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is; there is no magic way. If it is not correct, you will hear the drive motor bogging down and perhaps tripping on the overload during the agitation cycle.7-14 DAMPER PADSThe damper supports the weight of the water in the tub.
Mark the position of the nuts on the three eyebolts (Figure M-15) and remove the bottom nuts. This will remove spring tension on the tub centering springs.Lean the washer back against the wall at an angle. Place a 4x4 wood block directly underneath the transmission pulley and lower the machine onto the wood block.
Any questions as to what to tie, just shoot me an email or use the Contact 2Bonthewater page. In addition to telling the motor when to run, it may also activate the heating circuit or heating control circuits, humidity-sensing circuits, etc. Solid state timers are difficult and expensive to diagnose. If you suspect a timer problem in a solid-state system, you can try replacing it, but remember that it's expensive and non-returnable (being an electrical part.) If you have one of these units that's defective, you can check into the cost of replacing it, but it's been my experience that you usually will end up just replacing the whole dryer or calling a technician.
If you do call a technician, make sure you ask up front whether they work on solid-state controls. Most timers are nothing more than a motor that drives a set of cams which open and close switches.
Yet it is one of the most expensive parts in your dryer, so don't be too quick to diagnose it as the problem. Replace the timer or timer drive motor, or have it rebuilt as described below. Timers can be difficult to diagnose. All that cold water coming from a quarry and the creek itself in that area is near lifeless. If none of the other components are bad, then it may be the timer. Remember that a timer is simply a set of on-off switches. The bridge is now being painted a Hunter Green color.Most of the creeks in the OleyValley are really low. Even with the rain, the creeks remain very low.A I have a trip scheduled to the Salmon River planned inlate September thanks to Jack. Following the shaded circuit in figure G-7, you test the door switch, push-to-start switch and centrifugal switch.
Without Jack's kindness and awesomeness, I would not be going salmon fishing.A I have startedtyingflies for the upcoming salmon trip.
Zoe competed in a National Beauty pageant and won honorable mention in the beauty competition (FYI -- Zoe wears no make-up, fake hairor fake teethand she competes in the natural division--she is my little girl and I would never DRESS HER UP like all those crazy folks you see on TV).
Make sure the timer is in the "on" position and slowly turn the timer all the way through a full cycle.
We dressed as fishermen, answered a question about each other and then Zoe did some fly casting on stage.
Be patient!) You should see continuity make and break at least once in the cycle; usually several times.
Zoe was crowned Little Queen when she won the Pennsylvania state pageant back in 2006 while competing in a Sunburst pageant.
If it's a common one, your parts dealer may even have a rebuilt one in stock. For the most part, if your timer is acting up, you need to replace it. There are plenty of out of the way smaller streams that are teeming with Smallmouths, Carp and a variety of Panfish.
There may be several different thermostats side by side; for example 135 degrees for low temperature, 165 for high temperature, etc. Naturally, it is a bit more expensive than regular thermostats, and difficult to test. You can test a thermostat as described in section 1-4(b) by testing for continuity across its terminals.

A cold cool-down stat should show no continuity. If a thermostat fails into a closed position, there is a danger that the heating system will continue operating until something catches fire.
Perkiomen Creek -- air temp 89 degrees, checked the temperature at two spots, temps were 70 and 69 degrees -- Taken between 415-425 pmA Manatawny Creek -- air temp was 88 degrees, checked the temperature at three spots, temps were 76 degrees at Red Covered Bridge, 74 degrees above TIKI bar and 76 degrees below the Rt. Replace it. THERMISTORSA thermistor is a "variable resistor" whose resistance varies with temperature. Rather than just turning the heating circuit on and off as thermostats do, dryers with solid-state (computer logic board) controls can use a thermistor's input to control the drum temperature more closely.
This can result in lower energy usage. Thermistors are tested by measuring resistance across them with a VOM.
This heatwave has made most ofthe local trout streams too warm to fishfor the catch and release angler. If you hear the motor buzzing, but it doesn't start in either or both directions, test the capacitor (if any) and starting switch as described in sections 2-6(e) and 7-8. Maiden Creek below Ontelaunee Lake should provide anglers with some fishthat are willing to bite. This is done in one of two ways. When the air in the drum is moist, the water in it absorbs heat to evaporate. This keeps the air temperature lower, and it takes longer to heat up.   The thermostat on the drum exhaust will keep the heating system on longer.
In these systems, that same thermostat controls the timer motor; while the heating system is on, the timer motor is not running, and vice-versa. You can find Carp, Smallmouth Bass, Largemouth Bassand a wide assortment of panfish to keep you busy. So when the clothes get drier, the exhaust air temperature gets higher more quickly, the heating system doesn't stay on for as long and the timer motor runs more, ending the cycle sooner. The thermostats in these machines have three leads. Take some cold water with you !!!Your best way to keep the water cool is to freeze a bottle or two of water the night before you head out.
As the day heats up, the water bottles will slowly melt, leaving you with nice cold waterto drink throughout the day.
If the symptoms lead you to suspect that yours is defective, just replace it. Besides heating more slowly, moist air also conducts electricity better than dry air.
So another way the engineers design a humidity sensor is to put two electrical contacts inside the dryer drum. The electrical currents conducted by the air are so low that an electronic circuit is needed to sense when the air is moist, but essentially the same thing happens in this system as in the other. When the air is dry, the timer motor runs longer and times out sooner. The sensors in these machines tend to get coated with gummy stuff, especially if you use a lot of fabric softener in the wash or starch in ironing.
The circuit board could have gone bad, too; there is no good way to test it with out a lot of expensive equipment. I fished for 30-minutes on Manatawny and landed 2 wild browns on a tan caddis dry fly in the area where the water temp was 68 degrees. The problem is that the heater operates on 220 volts, but the timer motor runs on 110 volts. There is a resistor in the system to cut down the voltage (see figure G-6(a) and if this resistor is bad, you will see the same symptoms as if the thermostat was bad: the timer motor will not run in the automatic cycle. Temperature wise, if it is 90 degrees outside, pretty sure most, if not all of the local trout waters will be at 70 degrees or higher. If you have one of these dryers, make sure you test the resistor for continuity, in addition to the thermostat. OTHER TEMPERATURE CONTROLS Selecting which thermostat is used may be done inside the timer, or there may be a separate multi-switch that accomplishes this. So much, in fact, that if it is allowed to continue being energized in a stalled state, it will start burning wires. We don't wantto kill the trout.The trout that survive through the summer will offerus great fishing in the fall. To prevent this, an overload switch is installed on motors to cut power to them if they don't start within a certain amount of time. If the motor is trying to start, but can't, you will hear certain things. I have not made a trip to the Schuylkill River as of yet, but I'd bet the house that the smallie action should be pretty darn good. In some extreme cases, you may even smell burning. If you hear the motor doing this, but it won't start, disconnect power and take all the load off it.
You can also takeyour watercraft outbefore Epler atCross Keys Road or at Muhlenburg Township park which is below the PFBC Epler Access. If you have an ammeter, the stalled motor will be drawing 10 to 20 amps or more. STARTING SWITCH Dryers have a centrifugal starting switch mounted piggyback on the motor. There are many sets of contacts inside the switch, and each design is different, even among dryers of the same brand. Testing the switch is most easily accomplished by replacing it. Remember that starting switches are electrical parts, which are generally not returnable.
If you test the switch by replacing it, and the problem turns out to be the motor itself, you will probably not be able to return the starting switch for a refund.
There is little room to fish, unless you don't mind walking the shoreline that is covered with all types of vegetation, including Poison Ivy.
Pleny of fish to be caught in this body of water, that is if you can get to them.A Manatawny Creek fished OK. When buying a new motor, make sure that the pulley can be changed over, or else get a new pulley with the new motor. It may save you a second trip to the parts dealer.   2-4(e) IGNITORSYou can test the ignitor by testing for resistance across the element. Like ignitors, they should show quite a bit of resistance, and defective heaters will usually show no continuity at all.2-4(g) TERMINAL BLOCKIn most electric dryer installations, there is a 220 volt wall plug. If the dryer does not seem to be getting power, but you do have power at the wall outlet, you also need to check the terminal block for problems as shown below.
Replace it if there is any sign of problems. Make sure all wiring is clear and make sure you don't touch any bare wires or terminals, plug the dryer back in briefly, and check the terminal block for power across all three legs as described in sections 1-4(a) and 2-4.
Then remove power again at the breaker or fuse.2-5 AIRFLOWAirflow is EXTREMELY important in EVERY dryer. It can come on suddenly (like if something happens to the dryer vent outside the house) or it can show up as a progressive problem, as lint slowly builds up in the dryer exhaust system.First, check the lint screen.
I think it's a tribute to Whirlpool engineering that the thing was still running at all with that much lint in it. If the lint screen is clean, check the exhaust system between the dryer and the house outlet.
A really easy way is to disconnect the exhaust system and run the dryer for a few minutes with it venting directly into the house. If the dryer functions normally, the exhaust system is clogged. If none of the above works, the internal ducting or blower fan is clogged or malfunctioning.
This stretch used to provide some very nice smallmouth action, but the last few trips here have been poor. Switched to a spent spinner pattern and hooked up twice--snapped one off and landed a nice stocker brown.
The water is up from recent rains inthe valley, but the stream was clear and in perfect condition.
The Schuylkill River and a few tribs shouldprovide any cat or carp angler with a few bites each nite. Channel catfish prefer dead baits andsmaller live bait, while the Flatheads prefer larger live bait. Carp will eatsmaller live bait including minnows andcrayfish along with the standard fare of homemade MUSH bait or whole kernel corn.The bottom line is--It doesn't really matter what bait you areusing. But, by now it was pitch black and it was raining pretty good and thelightning made it look like the 4th of July came early.I managed to land 2 fish on my emerger pattern androll 2 other trout. Started out at the mouth of Sacony Creek but there was some serious bridge work going on, so I left after a few casts. Caught some nice bluegills, onebrown trout, pumpkinseeds, green sunfish, agolden shiner and I almost hooked into a very nice largemouth bass.
Kids and water mean plenty of noise,lots of splashing and lots offun.Normally, 750pm is about the timethe sulphurs start popping off.
Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan.
I saw some Iso's and huge stoneflies coming off and flying around.I caught a trophy Bluegill, no kidding check out the picture, almost 9 inches. I left my headlamp in the truck so I had to walkout before it got too dark and miss the potential spinner fall.
I then drove to another stretch of the crick and hooked up a few times fishing a brown spent spinner. I lost them at the bank.A Fish the mornings with a brown or white spent spinner and you might get a few takes on the surface. My favorite is a "John's Spring Creek Pupa" tied in size 18 and 20 (Trout Flies of The East--page 93).
I caught two brookies on a CDC sulphur dry fly and the rest of the fish were caught with nymphs.
What an amazing fish, especially on a 2 wt bamboo fly rod with a fly reel that is dated to the 1930's or 1940's.
What a specimen.He looked like a submarine swimming in the water !!My first impression of the leviathan is that it was a wild fish. Tonights fishing provided a mixed bag of fish, a few smallwild brown trout, along with a few stocker browns, stockerrainbows and the brook trout.
I topped it all off with a visit to Ted's house to show off the bamboo fly rod and talk shop. It was about 40 degrees and raining.I didroll a larger fish on a midge, but aside from that, it was a very slow night. Cast down and across and hop the flies upoff the bottom with quick upward lifts of the fly rod.The fish would really strike hard. I still have not figured out whyone day I will catch all browns, one day I will catch all rainbows and some days, you will catch a little of everything.

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