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The different designs are differentiated by being a different "model" or "series." Confusing the issue even more, some manufacturers "private label" their machines for large department stores. Seeing as Pull Your Ex Back has a non existent Refund Rate of 0% when purchased at the standard price of $39, which means that every single person who is buying this product is happy with their purchase and no one is asking for a refund, it is an incredibly good indication that Pull Your Ex Back does make goods on its claims and may really be worth purchasing. The same is true in reverse, if a product has a high rate of return (refund rate) then the product is probably a scam.
Such as Sears' Kenmore and Montgomery Ward's Signature machines. Check the following list to determine if you have one of these "cross-branded" machines.

These machines were sold as GE, Hotpoint, and "private-labelled" as JC Penney and Penncrest brands. In 1995, GE redesigned their dryers.
WCI's machines were sold under these original brand names, as well as Westinghouse and White-Westinghouse brands. In the '90's, WCI was bought by Swedish giant Electrolux, who changed the company name back to the Frigidaire Home Products Company. They have continued to manufacture these "Herrin" machines as Maytag "Performa" models and high-end Crosley brand machines, but they have gone through a LOT of evolution. You can find them in the yellow pages under the following headings:APPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, MAJORAPPLIANCES, PARTS AND SUPPLIESREFRIGERATORS, DOMESTICAPPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, REPAIR AND SERVICECall a few of them and ask if they are a repair service, or if they sell parts, or both. However, you don't want to badger them with TOO many questions, so know your basics before you start asking questions. Some parts houses may offer service, too. They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath "guide" you to their service department. They should contain the model number somewhere. In any case, and especially if you have absolutely NO information about your dryer anywhere, make sure you bring your old part to the parts store with you. An inexpensive one will suffice, as long as it has both "AC Voltage" and "Resistance" (i.e. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. Remember the rule in section 1-5 (1); while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair.
You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter. In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM.
When testing 220 volt circuits (usually in electric dryers) make sure you always follow the precautions in rule 1 of section 1-5!Figure B-4: Testing Voltage1-4(b) TESTING FOR CONTINUITY (Figure B-5)Don't let the word "continuity" scare you. It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source. It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" scale.
If the meter does not read zero resistance, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. You can touch the ends of the wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact.
If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading. This is the resistance reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity.

If you do not, the switch is bad.   1-4(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory.
If you own an ammeter, you probably already know how to use it. If you don't, don't get one. The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the density of the magnetic field, or flux, it produces aroundthe wire.
The ammeter simply measures the density of this flux, and thus the amount of current, flowing through the wire.
To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the cur rent going through any other components) and see if there's any current flow. To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). If you need to re-energize the dryer to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. I want to impress upon you something really important. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.However, 220 VOLTS CAN KNOCK YOU OFF YOUR FEET. And if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will stop again.
Replace the part. 3) If you must lay the dryer over on its side, front or back, first make sure that you are not going to break anything off, such as a gas valve. Lay an old blanket on the floor to protect the floor and the finish of the dryer. 4) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component.
And NEVER EVER remove the third (ground) prong in the main power plug! 5) When opening the dryer cabinet or console, remember that the sheet metal parts are have very sharp edges.
Wear gloves, and be careful not to cut your hands! 6) When testing for your power supply from a wall outlet, plug in a small appliance such as a shaver or blow dryer. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked.
The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the density of the magnetic field, or flux, it produces aroundthe wire.

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