I recently converted the 3D deck & shed plans into sketchup so that others can benefit. It was a lot of fun figuring out how to lift that heavy, wet, pressure-treated beam onto the posts all by myself. The posts weren’t small either, when you consider they are almost 6 feet underground! Another month or so would pass before I could finish my custom shed doors, but I’m happy with the result. For longevity did you use an ice and water shield or rubber under the aluminum to protect the OSB? Many many thanks again for doing this I can’t imagine how many homeowners you have inspired by the articulate details provided here. I am interest to know how the aluminum flashing was attached to the house so there would be no leaking.
I’m trying to understand how you managed to concrete the floor of your shed with the two posts already installed. I assume for the inside plywood wall closest to the house you prebuilt the wall with the plywood and lifted it into place. I was hoping to find a flexible material that could be used between the bottom of the deck and the top of the shed for both esthetic reasons and to keep things from moving in.
The deck is attached to the house and the post supporting the deck have attached to footings below the frost line. October 15, 2010 by CustomMade Today while chatting at Wood Talk Online, I came across the Panofish Blog. The next time I need to cut bricks… I’ll get a diamond blade.  It sure took me a long time to cut them with an abrasive disc. I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind sharing your plans for both the deck and the shed. OK… I converted my 3ds max 3D models into Google sketchup format and update this post. I used my air staple gun to fix the position of the aluminum … then the NPC Solar Seal industrial caulk. As you can see by the photos… I built the wall tight to the vinyl siding of the house. Just wanted to say thank you Alan for posting what you did, as it will be how I address my shed in the next house.


I know you said you used your air stapler gun, but for those of us without any alternative recommendations?
I didn’t put in a rain gutter at the end of the troughs, but I could have if I wanted to. Yeah, it was impractical to pour the concrete level, so the pad has a slope which I had to account for in building my walls and doors.
Curiosity question: if you would have had a little more headroom under the deck, would you have considered installing a flat, slightly angled material, such as fiberglass, beneath the joists instead of the angled troughs?
I’m planning something similar and debating between troughs between the joists vs some sort of flat panel below the joists. Awesome Shed, I’m going to start on my next week and follow your example as much as possible. Alan, sorry for all the questions here, but im wondering if you could tell me how did your door for you shed, i dont think ill have enough head room for an overhead or walkthrough door and i like how you did yours?
My doors are hobbit doors and I have to duck my head like Gandalf, but once I’m inside the shed I can stand up without hitting my head. Maybe you should have considered moving to a warmer climate where you can sleep outside when the wife kicks you out? My deck has 2 massive posts (4 glued 2x6s) that are nearly 6 feet deep… that is way below the frost layer. I have a theory on how you could install the aluminum under the deck without taking the deck boards off. If you are really worried about rotting joists, you could install the long strips of aluminum all the way up to the underside of the deck boards and cut them so that the the bottom side of this strip slopes down away from the house. Your browser does not support inline frames or is currently configured not to display inline frames. The following youtube video covers some important factors to consider when building such a deck. I wanted my shed to look as nice as I could make it… so I wrapped it in matching vinyl siding. I live in central NC and I’m considering doing the same thing under my screened in porch.
In your last post about allowing the shed to rise and fall in the winter (I too live up north in South East MN) without lifting the shed, did you mean the deck? My trailer-lift project may have been my most gratifying project, but my shed has been the most useful.


For building a shed under a deck, you can screw sheets of corrugated metal or fibreglass roofing to the furring strips.
Trying to tell from the pics, but I’m not sure if they either hold the water, or if the water flows out below the deck and above the window? My deck is, unfortunately, resting under a giant oak, and I have constant twigs and acorns everywhere.
I decided to put my shed entry on the left side of the deck, so I had to dig the hillside down and create a patio for the doorway. Good thing I allowed space for the concrete to heave in winter… because it did just that! Thinking of doing the same at my cottage up north, but the deck is at the top of a steep decline, and i don’t want excess water to weaken the hill at all.
I have a couple sheets of plywood under the deck, protecting my hot tub area, but leaves and crap still blow in from the sides… which, of course, cling to bare, wet feet and gets dragged into the house. Push this wide piece of aluminum up between the long strips of aluminum and the joists on both sides. You can cut and install wood lattice around the deck foundation, so as to hide the storage area from view. I am currently looking for someone to build me one like this so I can park the motorcycles during the winter clearing the garage for the cars!. Wondering if you installed a gutter (or any other way of diverting the water run off from the trough)? I plan on making the area a screened-in porch, but I’m worried about the non-removability or your system. For this purpose thicker lattice should be used, as it holds up better than the thinner lattice. It may be possible to flush everything out with enough water, but I figured I’d get your take on it.



Metal shed storage ideas pinterest
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Comments to «Building a shed under deck ideas»

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