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Another big decision you need to make as a new woodworker involves setting up shop and buying tools. Sorting through the immense volume of information out there can be daunting, to say the least. I thought that since I gather so many Ideas from this board I would share a few shots of my welding table that I am building for my new shop. I did weight calcs on the tube and plate and whatnot and it should come in right near 1200 lbs. I would like to rent a mag-drill and lay out a grid of tapped holes for bolting down fixtures and stuff, any advice here?
Here's some good advice on door construction, with particular reference to a door built with Sapele and including horizontal glass panels. I will provide all molding and the means for their carpenter to create the side light using a local glazier. A three panel leaf with every third rail being full thickness is likely how you will have to go. With the 3 or 4 panel method, you lay the outer face horizontals over the glass or install them during door assembly getting as fancy as you care to with the joinery to the rails. I'm unsure which one of the photos you are trying to do, but any of the three types can be used to pull this off.
A solid core flush door, exterior rated, can be cut out, veneered and have solid wood edges added for rabbet and exposed edges. A frame and panel construction can be used, preferably cope and stick with mortise and tenons or dowels to hold the rails and stiles to each other. I'm still open to any further suggestions and can't tell you how appreciative I am to have a huge roomful of experts who have my back. Your climate may make the single glass panes condense in the winter, so be sure your client knows this. If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question.
I have found that even when hand cutting a 2D CAD program proved invaluable in the design of sub-components. All content and pictures, except were cited, are the exclusive property of SMITH PRECISION AIRCRAFT. Not only will you see all the tools I used at the time, but I’ll also give you an idea of what tools I think are necessities for small and large shops (toward the end of the video).


In the pictures below, one (with the side light) is the existing door and the other two show how they'd like their new door to look.
I want it to work but I'd like to make it as simple as possible to keep the cost down? and land the job. I would just rebate from the inside and use square stops? But how to attach them, being so narrow?
Depending on where you get your IG units, there will be a minimum size they can fabricate and I?m guessing those slots are far too narrow. There is a lot more to an exterior door than most people are ever aware of, and by gawd, they gotta work. It is also wise to do these as a unit to avoid problems at install, hardware or weatherstrip or finish. They can be haunched back a total of about 50% to allow for movement, with a cope and stick making for alignment and blinding the joint.
Note any manufacturer's warranty and the calculations for the overhang, or the door is excluded from warranty coverage.
Cabinet doors have cope and stick joints that long, and this door will weigh 150 lbs I would guess.
The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.
The changes I made were in the height as well as the support construction for the bottom shelf.
Even if you do get a little splatter in the threaded hole, you can always run the tap thru from underneath. Honestly, I can see this table being useful in all kinds of shops and the wide surface can easily double as an assembly table.
I happened across your video on the new outfeed table that you made when you put on your Incra fence. They are willing to live without the glass horizontals, so I'll work without that unless someone here tells me that is actually easier to do. I bought a few hardened bushings from McMaster, and made a drilling jig that referenced both sides of the wood. I've started using West Systems epoxy on complicated assemblies for the open time it allows, and the lubrication helps too. Then the inside face horizontal rails can be laid in between or assembled with the stop to make a one piece frame. Look at your tooling, draw full size cross sections and figure out how best to make the joints. Security, looks, performance, staying dry, no warping or movement out of bounds, timing and finish.


Provide documentation with your PO, and all glass vendor's info, showing it is laminated so the inspector will see this if there is one and he asks.
However, all I see is square edges, no sticking, so all wide tenons (or big dowels) must be how they are built. This will allow for heavy bolts of fabric to be rolled out, traced and cut as well as offering a smooth surface to flat pattern on. A garbage can or a shop vac would even fit nicely in the area Chuck created for his wheelchair to roll under.
I decided that I really liked the way that it went together and decided to design one for myself.
That's not the simplest door to start with, but I'm sure if you think it through you can handle it.
Doing full lite and overlaying all the horizontals would be the cheapest construction, but I wouldn?t bet any money on its warp resistance. One thing I wonder is if it's better to build the whole thing as a unit versus having the contractor add the side lite? I will bevel the exterior ledges so water and snow never sit there too long (even though this door sits under a 20" deep overhang). I think the right way to make the rails is with a 5 ply assembly to stabilize the rail, preventing movement across the width. A lot of heavy lifting and my wrists are beyond help, but it fits perfectly and, with locking swivel casters, can be moved with ease. I'd planned on doing a 6" pattern on the ones I'm doing unless someone has experience that that pattern is too large. Refinishing every few years gets expensive for doors, so use Sikkens, and when it gets thin or faded (by U-V), then it is time for a simple cleaning and recoat. The wool is denser and has a better life than batting, if you cannot afford wool yardage, then find an old wool blanket (no holes) at the thrift store.
Since we use overhead welders on swing arms, It saves us from changing a ground every time we move. It seemed absolutely useless to have a full table in the shop that I couldn’t roll under.
Using qsaw wood will limit that, but stack that much wood up and you will see some real seasonal movement. When I did this, it allowed for two smaller shelves on either side instead of the one big one.



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Comments to «Building a shop table runner»

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