I recently converted the 3D deck & shed plans into sketchup so that others can benefit. It was a lot of fun figuring out how to lift that heavy, wet, pressure-treated beam onto the posts all by myself. The posts weren’t small either, when you consider they are almost 6 feet underground!
Another month or so would pass before I could finish my custom shed doors, but I’m happy with the result. I also recommend a power caulking gun because of the quantity of caulking I was doing was made much easier with a power caulker. In my case the problem with heaving… is because I didnt want my shed to lift my deck, which is attached to my house. I would inspect the ledger board of your deck and make sure the deck attachment to your house has not weakened. I built something like this last summer based on your pictures and instructions when I was having my upper deck rebuilt.
My plan is to do board and batten that is attached to my deck and run in clear to the concrete and up to the deck joists. I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind sharing your plans for both the deck and the shed.
OK… I converted my 3ds max 3D models into Google sketchup format and update this post. I used my air staple gun to fix the position of the aluminum … then the NPC Solar Seal industrial caulk. As you can see by the photos… I built the wall tight to the vinyl siding of the house. Just wanted to say thank you Alan for posting what you did, as it will be how I address my shed in the next house. I know you said you used your air stapler gun, but for those of us without any alternative recommendations? I didn’t put in a rain gutter at the end of the troughs, but I could have if I wanted to.
Yeah, it was impractical to pour the concrete level, so the pad has a slope which I had to account for in building my walls and doors. Curiosity question: if you would have had a little more headroom under the deck, would you have considered installing a flat, slightly angled material, such as fiberglass, beneath the joists instead of the angled troughs?
I’m planning something similar and debating between troughs between the joists vs some sort of flat panel below the joists.
Awesome Shed, I’m going to start on my next week and follow your example as much as possible.
Alan, sorry for all the questions here, but im wondering if you could tell me how did your door for you shed, i dont think ill have enough head room for an overhead or walkthrough door and i like how you did yours? My doors are hobbit doors and I have to duck my head like Gandalf, but once I’m inside the shed I can stand up without hitting my head.
Maybe you should have considered moving to a warmer climate where you can sleep outside when the wife kicks you out?
My deck has 2 massive posts (4 glued 2x6s) that are nearly 6 feet deep… that is way below the frost layer.

I have a theory on how you could install the aluminum under the deck without taking the deck boards off. If you are really worried about rotting joists, you could install the long strips of aluminum all the way up to the underside of the deck boards and cut them so that the the bottom side of this strip slopes down away from the house. October 15, 2010 by CustomMade Today while chatting at Wood Talk Online, I came across the Panofish Blog.
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I wanted my shed to look as nice as I could make it… so I wrapped it in matching vinyl siding. I just saw a YouTube video where a guy screwed corrugated plastic to the bottom of the deck. Used Ice and Weather Shield over the joists overlapping down to the alum troughs to protect the wood. The shed wall was close to the home wall and well protected from the elements by the sealed deck roofing. But I’m wondering why you put the particle board in between the joists and not just hang the sheeting between the boards and exposed underneath? I built my shed under half of my existing 400sqft deck at the end of last summer and my ideas on how to keep the water out wasn’t even close to doing it right.
I had built the stud framing, but I hadn’t bolted them to the concrete or permanently fixed the walls yet. However, I have to add two additional 4x4s or 6x6s near the house at the corner of the concrete to give my board and batten something to be fastened to. In your last post about allowing the shed to rise and fall in the winter (I too live up north in South East MN) without lifting the shed, did you mean the deck? Water complement government When structure storage underneath your adorn it is critical to waterproof it we am structure the 10 in reserve 10 mental recall strew underneath my This is the place to plead porches as well as decks how to soma.
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Your behind back yard than to set up your portable cattle strew plans molt underneath your second story deck.
My trailer-lift project may have been my most gratifying project, but my shed has been the most useful.
I thought about putting foam sheets up on the ceiling to help keep any heat in when Winter comes (I put rocksul in the walls), but styrofoam is pretty flammable I’m told.
My mason poured a pad under my deck and asked if the concrete was going to heave in the winter.

I would attached the top of the new post to the joist of the deck and anchor the bottom of the post to the concrete. Trying to tell from the pics, but I’m not sure if they either hold the water, or if the water flows out below the deck and above the window? My deck is, unfortunately, resting under a giant oak, and I have constant twigs and acorns everywhere.
Them correct There have been ways to implement steel thatch underneath your hit down to Converting the dull area underneath your rug is the good approach of reason up to supply one some-more storage for the massive essay of furniture. I decided to put my shed entry on the left side of the deck, so I had to dig the hillside down and create a patio for the doorway. Good thing I allowed space for the concrete to heave in winter… because it did just that!
I live in Prescott, AZ at elevation 5400 ft and we do get below freezing winter temps but not a lot of snow. My deck is about 3 feet away from the house with a short bridge coming off the back door, so the whole thing is essentially stand-alone. Your answer this time was exactly what I was wanting to know and I’m confidently on my way. Thinking of doing the same at my cottage up north, but the deck is at the top of a steep decline, and i don’t want excess water to weaken the hill at all. I have a couple sheets of plywood under the deck, protecting my hot tub area, but leaves and crap still blow in from the sides… which, of course, cling to bare, wet feet and gets dragged into the house.
Push this wide piece of aluminum up between the long strips of aluminum and the joists on both sides. I’m wondering if I need to follow your advise about leaving a gap between shed and deck and what is the gaps distance? Wondering if you installed a gutter (or any other way of diverting the water run off from the trough)? I plan on making the area a screened-in porch, but I’m worried about the non-removability or your system.
Also, it’s not pictured but I’m curious to know how you finished the top of the deck? The shed is always totally dry … it must be almost 13 years now and the shed still looks great. Wow, would be so much less work than doing the plywood between the joists if I don’t really need too. It may be possible to flush everything out with enough water, but I figured I’d get your take on it. But, you stated earlier in one of your responses, the wood troughs were to support the “load” and was wondering what you meant by that?
Even though the moisture is mixed with soil… it will still have no problem lifting your shed and deck or crushing it until something gives.

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