We have îpe tastes but a tiny budget, so we had to go with standard PT lumber (sorry, planet). Today I’m going to be planting a bunch of Pachysandra graciously donated by a friend working on her own garden makeover. Looks so great, and your post settles an argument between myself and my boyfriend Mark re: how to anchor our deck. I think you should both be very proud of yourselves,The hard work (and aching arms) will be SO worth it when you can sit out on the deck with a cocktail! Anna – I am so impressed and inspired that you literally created your garden plan a few days ago, and now you have an instant deck. Lonnie: We definitely try to encourage each other, and it it depends on the day when it comes to who has more get-up-and-go (sometimes neither of us!). I do need to ask if you contemplated and fretted which board went where in terms of knots and grain even though in the end it doesn’t matter in any way, shape or form to anything or anybody. I just found out my son has a bee allergy and have all this beautiful red Monarda (beebalm) I need to remove from my garden. So you’re telling me it only takes a 10% coupon for you to split with we the obsessive mental cases??? Can I inset the block a bit 'inside' the floor framing so that all you'd see from the perimeter is the edge boards? Yes it will make a difference for the same reason that outriggers on boom trucks stick out and to the side. I think realistically you COULD move them inside the outside edge of the wall, but do not rely on your flooring to hold the weight of the structure. I remember a few months ago on another shed build where there was some concern on the framing, but I think that was where the wall framing didn't come in direct alignment with any flooring structure. My concern is exactly as you've described above - that there will be weight coming down the walls and redirected (hopefully) to the blocks. If you had a couple of 4 x 4 bearers running under the joists at 90 degrees and set in 6 inches or so, you could then put your blocks under them and set them in a bit from the ends. If you built the base out of the better treated lumber you could just let it sit on the ground. To further clarify your plans can you tell us more about the site such as: what soil conditions you have, what is your frost penetration depth (if any), and is the shed going to reside on level ground? I would just double the load bearing sill(I think that is the right name, someone will if it is not) and use half the blocks. Dig out an area at each deck block location that is approximately the same size as the base of the deck block and 2 inches deep.


Cut 2x6 rim joists and end joists to size and screw together at the ends to from the deck frame. Cut the decking to size from 2x4 lumber and screw it to the joists in a pattern of your choosing. You can also use a nail in each of the support posts, a line level, and string to make sure all the blocks and posts are level and the same height. Deck blocks are preformed concrete blocks used as a rest for the placement of wooden frame planks or posts. We highly encourage you to update your browser to the latest version of Internet Explorer, or use another browser such as Google Chrome or Mozilla Firefox. The site lets you enter the size of your deck, and spits out a supply list and instruction sheets.
Instead of diving into projects like you do, we tend to discuss projects for years and then we change our minds and feel relieved we no longer have to do it. Does he initiate a lot of these projects that you two do, or does he just help you carry out the plans?
And that is definitely a reasonably priced solution, so rare it’s great to see it done so well! Generally speaking, though, a permit is usually not required for structure that isn’t attached to the house and is under 200 SF. I will say, though, that neither Evan or I are much in love with the work itself, we just want to see projects get DONE! And sounds pretty easy (of course, a lot of hard work went into it but you guys make it look easy)! The funny thing is that we needed exactly 27 boards to build the deck, and Lowes (where we had a 10% off coupon) had 29 in stock — and 2 of them were badly damaged! I now NEED to spend more money and more time because of your awesome project and better solution. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features.
If you are asking can you set block inside so the material on the outside of your building covers the block then yes. If you don't want to see the block sticking out then bury it and raise the floor joist of the shed with a cinder block resting on the dek block.
My worry is whether this would make the walls unsupported and therefore weaken the overall structure.
Underneath the shed I'm planning on throwing down some landscape fabric to keep weeds down.


I'm leaning towards keeping it more conventional and then think of creative ideas to hide the gap. Anyone see any issues or as others have said, should I just put the blocks under the exterior joist and do something creative to hide them?
I'm in Vancouver so we don't have a frost issue to consider and the ground as it sits now is fairly level. A homeowner may be a little wary of undertaking a deck project, as pouring a concrete foundation may be an intimidating task for him.
The first row of blocks will be placed 12 inches in from the planned front edge of the deck and spaced every 24 inches on center. Raise and position the frame onto the support posts and nail the end joists to the support posts. Neither one of us have ever done this kind of thing before, so we’re feeling pretty pleased with ourselves right now! You say you want to do something, then you come up with a plan, then you do it without much delay.
Believe me, we would have been doing a lot of picking and choosing if they’d had extras. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. I was thinking the block product would have a larger footprint (more like a patio stone) in the advice I was giving above. Using deck blocks practically eliminates this portion of the job and puts it well within the reach of anyone with average do it yourself skills. The hardest part was getting everything level since our garden slopes from side to side, but even that wasn’t so bad once we had a system going. But then I’ve spent hours (really, hours) pulling those baby maple seedling from the front and sides.
The total cost was just around $300 for an 8×8 deck, including the screws and the stain. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
All that was left to decide on was which end looked better — and the worse end went toward the fence.



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