Now attach the shims to the wings to keep from pulling all the way out and for a secure fit. Attach the partitions to the bottom of the topper, and to the side and end trim pieces as shown above. The joints on this panel don’t need any reinforcement, but if you’d like to make them a little stronger, plunge a #20 biscuit slot into the joint on the top and bottom edges of the frame and glue a biscuit in place.
To help with alignment and to add visual detail, I used splines to join the side and front edging pieces to the top. Fasten the base to the cabinet by driving #8 x 1″-long screws up through predrilled holes in the centre of the blocks and into the bottom of the cabinet. When I started building furniture in my free time I always wanted to see it come together as fast as possible. As always if you have any questions don’t hesitate to comment below and especially don’t forget to post pictures of your finished products in the comments! ENJOY! Note: Know that the pocket holes will be on the inside of the changing table, therefore, you should choose the uglier sides of your wood to be on this side. With the top rails flush with the outside top corners of the side panels, attach with 2″ pocket hole screws as shown.
Drill the pocket holes as shown, except for the right hand board, those should be on the opposite side to best conceal them.
To be completely honest with you, I had no clue where this project was headed when I started it. I wasn’t sure if I wanted a distressed look, but I wanted the option to do so just in case! Haha, and yes you are indeed correct, this thing is built like a Mack truck and will last a lifetime. Startin mine tommorow, did u just use select pine, or doug fir, it did u use a hard wood like maple or oak? On a side but related note, if anyone is looking to try a different kind of stain I highly recommend General Finishes Oil Based Gel Stains and their Oil Based Arm-R-Seal Urethane Topcoat.
Also, when building the lego table make sure you pay attention to my note in the cut list area.
Use 2? screws and glue unless you have a Kreg Jig™ and you can fasten the end trim from the insides.
Fasten the trim to the legs to for extra support on the shelves from the outside of the leg or use a Kreg Jig™. Cut the top, bottom, sides, divider and shelves to size, then mark the dado locations for the shelves carefully. Placing fasteners at these locations means they’ll be hidden by the face frame after final assembly.
Once assembled and attached to the carcass, this cherry covers all the exposed plywood edges.
The plywood of the carcass will support these joints, so they don’t need to be incredibly strong.

Next, apply a coat of glue to the ends of the rails and inside the grooves in the stiles and rails before sliding these parts in place around the plywood. Remove the protruding half of the biscuit with a handsaw after the glue cures, and sand flush.
On the rails, you will need to continue this groove along the ends of the pieces by using a shopmade tenoning jig. I began with two coats of Minwax tung-oil finish to accentuate the colour of the cherry, then topped it with three coats of satin wipe-on polyurethane for durability. Make sure to notice that the middle shelf has three pocket holes, one at each end and one at the middle of the X (this is not the center). The two boards on the right in the picture should actually have the holes on the opposite side (But I can’t show that now can I?). I just knew that I wanted the finished piece to be something I could use anywhere in my house and not just as a changing table.
The plans and illustrations are so well laid out that just about anyone can do this project. It could support thousands of pounds of weight in my opinion so your lil tike will be just fine resting atop it. I always love to see when other people post their projects, from following the tutorial – yours is beautiful, and so is the original!!!!!
One reader just let me know about his LEGO plates being ever so slightly larger making installation impossible. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Cut the dados using either a tablesaw with a dado-blade set or a router spinning a straight bit.
Once you are sure everything fits perfectly, remove the clamps and add glue to the rabbets and dados, reassemble and reclamp. Joint, plane and rip your stile and rail material to final widths, then cross cut all of the pieces to length.
These grooves need to be stopped, as continuing to the ends will make attaching the rails difficult. These joints are not the most attractive, but they’re completely hidden by the top and base during final assembly. Cut the parts to size and then bring everything together with glue and the fasteners of your choice. Once the glue has cured fully, trim the solid wood flush with the surface of the ply using a sharp block plane or some 150-grit paper wrapped around a sanding block.
Using stub tenons and a glued-in-place plywood panel, the entire door can be made using a tablesaw. Make sure the back of the shelves are flush with the back of the side first and mark where your pocket holes should go. When I woke up that morning and actually had energy, which doesn’t happen often being 8 months pregnant, I went out to the garage and started throwing things together.

In other words, I write plans for awesome looking furniture that are so easy it will blow your mind! I used pine studs for the 2x’s and pine select for the topper boards (you could use the common boards as well).
I actually used some non-skid adhesive pads to the bottom of the topper so it can be pulled right off.
So measure your plates and if thats the case you’ll need to adjust the lengths accordingly. Check for square by measuring and equalizing diagonal measurements taken corner to corner, and then allow the glue to dry. If you do happen to cut the grooves all the way to the end, you can easily fix the situation by gluing filler strips in place at the ends of the grooves. Go slowly here, as you don’t want to sand or plane through the thin, veneered plywood surface. Once satisfied, assemble the door by putting a bead of glue in the grooves and clamping the assembly until dry. For a door latch, I wanted something a little different, so I decided to modify existing hardware to suit. To attach the holder to the table, drive a screw through these blocks and into the solid-wood edging of the top.
After the stain had set, I covered the entire project with Varathane water based polyurethane with matte finish. The stud grade 2x’s are usually mixed, some being nasty and others being pretty clean. Since both the carcass and the top are plywood, there is no need to allow for seasonal expansion. Glue the base assembly together, then clamp and check for square and allow the glue to set.
I ordered a brass transom latch, sanded its clear-coat finish down to bare metal, then I cleaned it and added three coats of flat black metal paint.
For the angle cuts a dedicated mitre saw might benefit over a circular saw for more precision cuts. Finally I purchased 4 angle brackets and spray painted them with rustolem metallic rustic colored spray paint. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. The pad used in the topper was purchased off amazon that Jamison, the Rogue Engineer, provided the link to.

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