These chicken coop pictures will give you examples and ideas for building your own chicken coop.
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A lot of chicken coop owners are worried about the feasibility of rearing chickens over the cold winter seasons.
Although chickens have a higher resistance or tolerance to cold compared to us human beings thanks to their thick feathers, they would still require some form of artificial warmth to retain their body temperature.
If you wish to save up on heating equipment, you could also just stuff more straw into the nesting or roosting area.
As for the summer season, chickens usually do not have problems with the heat, regardless of how hot it might get. This is easily the most typical type of chicken coop that beginners might want to start out with.
It simply costs a little extra and you can save up a lot of time and effort on any potential future expansion.
If you want to get your kid involved in a useful and fun hobby, you could also paint up the chicken coop and turn it into a mini one. Additionally, if you enjoy the company of animals, instead of pet dogs or cats, you could have pet chickens, which could make you some money from selling off their eggs.
This medium-sized chicken coop is more organized compared to the above and you can attempt to build one of this size once you’re more experienced in this. For those who don’t mind spending a little extra effort on their coops, you could make the nesting areas more snuggly as shown here. Most chickens coops have a squarish or rectangular shaped form because it’s simpler to build.
There’s an access there at the side of the roof, which I suppose is purposed for the collection of the eggs. This coop belongs to one of my coop buddies (we started out building coops at the same time as a hobby) and I have to say, I’m absolutely impressed by it.
I can see at least 3 nesting areas, where the lid has been lifted up, a few windows for ventilation and a huge access door for cleaning up or managing the interior portion of this coop. I’m so excited to start seeing some green in the planter, and of course pick up some hens! We decided to add 2×4 braces in each corner to keep the coop from getting cattywompus. To cut the slats for the opening, we measured from the end of the last slat to the center 2×4 brace from both sides. We did a little more measuring at the base and cut three more roof supports to fit, so each peak has a supporting piece. We attached both with a center screw and two added nails on opposing ends so it wouldn’t spin. This is where I have no measurements for you, as I took a break to lie down and hubs kept on truckin’! For the roof slats, he started by measuring the distance of the top and adding a 2″ overhang to each side. Which allows the pickets attached to the hinged frame to open high enough to reach the eggs. As far as the chicken wire on the run, we stapled it from the outside since the braces keep it from laying flush inside the run. Are you going to be adding a ramp so that the girls can go in and out of the coop and so you can shut the coop up at night?
Amber, we do have the ramp materials ready, we’re just trying to figure out how to get it to pull up from the outside. This could potentially be a problem because chickens will only strive well and lay their eggs if there’s an adequate level of warmth and sunlight. Just like how we need fire or a heater to keep our house warm to live comfortably in, chickens will require this too.
In fact, you could simply fill up the corners or scatter them all over the coop since they can function as an insulating material.

To account for this, you might want to start off with a coop that’s slightly bigger in size compared to this.
The lid that can be opened at the left side will allow you to collect the eggs from the nesting area.
As you can see, it’s getting a little crowded here for the chickens and this can be bad for their health.
This could turn into a highly profitable hobby once you have learnt how to create the optimum environment for your chickens to lay eggs in a consistent manner. There are quite a few rows of nesting areas and the eggs can be easily collected by just lifting off the lid and retrieving them, as shown on the left picture. These typical coops can still look great if you give it a paint job or you have a great design but why stop there? This will definitely require a higher level of woodworking expertise to build up due to the angles at the edges and the sides of the coop. The size of this coop seems rather small though and it can probably fit 3 chickens comfortably at the most. It certainly doesn’t look out of place at all and you could probably confidently place this on your front yard too. How awesome will it be to have this little hobbit hole that looks like it came right out of the Lord of the Rings movie right smack in your yard?
It’s not just a farm thing anymore, many people are choosing to raise chickens for eggs and meat in urban and suburban areas too. First I need to whip up a quick ladder from a spare picket so they can get from the run into the coop. Attach the lower and one set of uppers at each end, tall points facing in toward each other.
He started from the back, holding up each picket and marking the angle for the cut, then nailed each into place one at a time. We got a little too excited about getting it done and didn’t take pictures of the process.
We cut two side pickets to length (about 22″) and used the nailer from below to secure it. Bookmarking this page so we can, ahem, copy ya’ll once we get settled into our new house! We don’t plan to bury anything since the coop is portable and we plan to move it around the yard every few weeks. I stapled some burlap on the inside of the upper door to help block the wind a bit, but that’s it. A good way to keep your chickens warm will be to install a heater within the coop itself or to rely on the heat emanated from the lights in the coop. This will prevent the heat that has been accumulated during the daytime from escaping into the night as it gets colder. Just make sure that your chickens are always kept warm and there will be little to no variances in your egg production rate over the spring or winter seasons. All you have to do is to add a few extra panels of wood and perhaps an additional nail or two. I recently came across several chicken coops that are uniquely shaped and designed and I thought I’d share them with you guys. The design itself isn’t too complicated but the question remains: How practical is this?
When your neighbors find out that it’s actually a chicken coop rather than a playhouse, they’ll probably want to start building one as well! Recently I was browsing a major retailer’s website for furniture ideas and saw a beautifully designed coop, run and planter, all-in-one! Then we measured the longest piece and attached it with more nails below and into the sides.
I’m hoping *fingerscrossed* we can teach our dogs that the chickens are pets, not prey. Brahmas (which are also good winter layers) could be a good choice, plus they’re supposed to be great with kids! There’s still some ventilation in the summer, and during the cold winter nights I throw an old blanket over the door for added insulation.
The first would be to use an artificial form of lighting within the coop itself so that it would feel as if the sun is still out.

It must look like the color of sunrays, which are ideally a mix of light yellow and orange, and perhaps with a tinge of red too. If you opt for the latter, you may wish to purchase those that are specifically made to do this. Plus, the warmth from the chickens themselves can be retained much more effectively too, as long as they stay on top of the straw. You have 2 nesting areas here, a slide out tray for cleaning the litter, an access ramp from the ground into the coop, wire mesh to guard against predators, an asphalt roof that’s waterproof and 2 access doors for cleaning purposes. It’ll definitely look better when placed in your backyard than a typical square shaped coop because it looks a lot like a camp or a tent. Well, more like a playhouse for kids but it works just as well as you can see from the picture.
You no longer have to be concerned that your coop will make your yard look like a cheap farm when you can have unique and exciting coops like these.
But with retail prices above $1600 before shipping, it’s not a feasible cost for many.
Once that was complete, we did the same by measuring the length between the tall support pairs on the sides and added a center support there as well.
If you live in a colder climate, you can add slats to your door and leave a smaller opening for ventilation. It seems you’ll just need to add a heat bulb in the coop for cold nights and you should be good to go! It took about a day to build, then another day to staple on the chicken wire (which is now covered in hardware cloth as its sturdier). Your chickens will not be able to tell the difference so don’t you be concerned about that! With these, your chickens should feel right at home and the egg production can continue even during the coldest of winter.
Not all lights will give off sufficient heat so you’ll want to test them out for yourself before you install them in your chicken coop. These designs are probably custom made by individuals but I’m sure if you look hard enough, you can probably dig up a few great looking coop plans too. Over the weekend I set in some pickling cucumber seeds, and will be tacking on some chicken wire to the side once they sprout for a green wall trellis.
We matched the inset all around, as the coop will have fence picket siding that we didn’t want to overlap. Once we got to the top of the frame, Jacob cut two wedges to allow for the frame to move upward and not get caught by the picket above.
I may figure out a way to finagle it to some string so it can be pulled up at night to keep predators out.
I need to get an accurate cost estimate, but I’m thinking it was around $250 for everything. Also, depending on how many chickens you are keeping inside your coop, the amount of heating equipment or lighting will vary.
Next we measured the distance between the two and cut the front and back and nailed in place. Start by taking two uncut sticks and hold them flush with the ends of the supports, then mark where they meet.
Since chickens themselves can share the heat produced from each of their bodies, the bigger and more packed the coop is, the lesser amount of heating units you’ll need to keep them comfortable. Then he simply finished nailing the pickets into the sides of the coop, just like the shorter roof section.
It’s also lightweight enough to move around the yard so you can fertilize different sections and not risk yard burnout. The final top piece should overhang the top board from the short side so there’s no gap for water to enter. However you could only support about 2-4 chickens at a time if you keep them penned, but if you allow them yard access you could keep a larger flock.
We plan on starting small and allowing them out during the day so long as our dogs leave them alone, but if they don’t we can build a larger run off the gated side should we like to keep more hens.

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