Insert drawers under bed and attach faces with face frames so the drawer bottoms are flush with the end bottoms – you want this to look like a real drawer! TIP: Leave a little bit of a gap to the top for overfull drawers or heavy weight on bed frame.
If you are adding drawers, it is crucial that you build a perfectly square box for the drawers.
Cut pieces G as shown above and nail to the sides of the bench, keeping outside edges flush. Assemble the drawer by nailing the back of the drawer, M, to the bottom of the drawer, L, as shown above.
My “trick” to getting the perfect drawer front is to mount the drawer box into the slides in the benches without the face. Drill a hole with the appropriate sized drill bit for the lag screws in the corners of the daybed.


Check the diagrams for exact measurements on the trim pieces that need to be mitered out on the corners at 45 degree angles. Make sure you use 2? nails to nail from the outside edges of G into the ends of the top and bottom trim pieces. Then, with the faceless drawer pushed in, center the drawer face on the opening (and not the actual drawer). When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. When you are happy with the gap around the drawer, nail the face to the sides and bottom of the drawer. I also shortened the drawer to 36” overall length so you can put drawer faces on both sides if desired. If you expect your bed to take heavy abuse (for example, used daily in a children’s room) you may wish to use screws.


Screws will prevent wiggling and make the bed last longer, but are more difficult to build with. Follow the instructions on the exterior top coat to apply a protective finish to the daybed. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion.



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