Summary: A DIY guide to laying a garden shed base, including how to use formwork and shuttering for concrete. How to build a shed base for your garden shed is a very popular question to diydoctor and in all honesty there are a number of ways to do it.
We have chosen a standard construction method which allows for a damp proof membrane under the slab to stop damp rising up through it.
For small sheds this could be dug into the ground removing the need for any brickwork around the edges.
A basic run down of the process is to dig the hole 300mm wider and longer than your shed floor, 100mm deep (providing the ground underneath is solid) and pour the concrete onto a damp proof membrane you have laid inside the base of the hole. However you build your shed base you need to make sure the ground is level over the area of the entire base. For the above ground method, you first need to decide if your ground is firm enough to lay a slab without a hardcore sub-base. If the ground is firm enough and the peg is difficult to drive into the ground then carry on with the instructions below.
If the peg goes in too easily then remove 4 inches of soil for an area of ground which is 500mm wider and longer than the floor of your shed and fill this with scalpings. It is necessary to compact the scalpings before adding the concrete so that they are as tightly packed as possible. In the diagram above, the damp proof membrane, which should be at least 1000 gauge polythene, is shown going under the formwork (frame) for the base.
Using 150mm x 25mm sawn and treated timber, cut the four sides of the formwork for your base. When the posts are banged in you need to use a spirit level to make sure the top of the formwork is level. There is no need to use large nails or screws as the concrete will hold the boards in place. To make sure the angles of your formwork are at 90 degrees, measure from corner to corner across both diagonals - the measurements should be identical.
With a level and square frame in place you can now lay 25mm of soft building sand in the bottom.
Stand the timber upright on its edge and push and pull it backwards and forwards across the frame while dragging it from one end to the other and this will level it roughly. This vibrates the concrete into place and it will find its own level - This is called tamping (See image below for an example).


Lastly, have a wander around the frame tapping gently on the outside all the way round with a clawhammer.
While the concrete is going hard, without disturbing the posts (of which there should be at least 300mm in the ground) dig a small trench all the way around the base, right next to the frame, about 5 inches wide and 2 inches deep. This brick wall serves two purposes, it holds the damp proof membrane up so no ground water can seep between the underside of the slab and the membrane and it also gives a much better looking side to the slab. We are assuming this base is for keeps so you want it to look good as well as being completely functional! Keeping the polythene held up, lay two courses of bricks around the base (For tips and help on doing this see our laying bricks and blocks project here).
Lay the top course of bricks with any frog (brick indent) facing down so that you have a nice flat top. Point up the brickwork (see our pointing and repointing brick and blockwork project for help) and you should have a good looking base for your shed - Good work!!
There are no hard and fast rules, so this is really up to you and how you want your finished shed and base to look.
For a practical demonstration on how to use a vibrator plate compactor, go to our video section on foundations here. Aaron was on the petrol powered vibrator making sure the concrete got into all the corners and settled properly, while I was shovelling it around.
I forgot to allow for the height of the formwork, so the footings are 150mm deeper than they needed to be.
As it turned out, we needed 1 more meter (so 6 in total), and we have about 3 shovel fills left over ! A Dream Motorcycle Workshop Create a dream garage for your vehicles and yourself with By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine. No matter what level of skill you've got, it is possible to develop a high quality garden shed by following this strategy. I would like to translate this video into french, then put the french version into youtube. Not only do we show you how to build a concrete shed base but we also show you how to get it smooth and level and also include a damp proof membrane.
To do this get a 50mm x 50mm post and without sharpening the end try and drive it into the ground. They are a little more expensive than broken brick hardcore but much much easier to lay and compact.


If not then over time they could move and slump, removing the support for the concrete and causing it to crack as there is no support from below.
It should, in all cases, be 300mm longer and wider than your shed floor and as level as possible. These posts will obviously hold the timber on its edge, but more importantly are for stopping the timber bowing out as you place the concrete. Using a piece of timber laid across the top of the frame and concrete (with one person at either end of the timber), wiggle it about to get the top of the new base level.
Next, lift the board at both ends about 4 inches above the frame and tap it back down on the frame, moving up and down the frame as you do so.
The bricks are for decoration but if they are well laid it doesn't matter if the shed sites on them too, going right to the edge, as the decorative part of the brick is its face.
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The concrete is arriving in two batches – first is 5 meters, and the second is whatever we need to finish it. The delivery guy thought we might need about 0.8 meters when he had finished the first load, so he said take it to 1 meter. Bike Sheds cycle Sheds house Delivered Bike Sheds Including gathering Motorbike Sheds Home Delivered. Next, lay the polythene inside the frame (on top of the sand) and fold as tightly as possible into the corners. Hawaii guys In the side by side few weeks 1 Artium Magister going to be putting up a new shed which will be by and large victimized to store quaternary bikes and for storage of tools and.
Let slab cure for at least a week spaying it with water each morning and evening, then and only then remove the formwork.
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What happened with compacting fill with a vibrating plate compactor?i»?Sheds Direct: I am really glad to learn another set of useful information regarding on garden shed.



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Comments to «Diy garden shed slab thickness»

  1. zZz on 12.03.2014 at 10:42:10
    For individuals who do, contemplate quickly replacing a few you.
  2. JIN on 12.03.2014 at 23:40:22
    Benefit from the look I wanted to do something extra purposeful the "underneath" side.