I replaced this incredibly nasty, 3-Way Sanitary Tee (what an oxymoron in this case) with a Flexible 3-Way Sanitary Tee connector. I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible.
I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now. Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items. Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths. The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row. Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need.
As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support. After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s).
For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall. Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level.
It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall.
As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids! This blog posting was originally written in 2008 for a friend of mine who was unable to perform simple repair tasks around her house.
Step 4: Balance the board on its back on a good solid flat surface so that the edge that will contact the wall is against the floor. Step 6: Mount the shelf, lining it up with your previous marks, and mark only the upper screw hole where it meets the wall and stud.
At this stage, you’ve got one bracket, tightly secured to the board, and loosely secured to the wall. You might wish to take a measuring tape and a piece of chalk and actually draw your shelving on the wall before you head out to the store. The first rail was easy, as we didn’t really care too much about the vertical placement. Now you can mount the second rail with its top just ever so slightly above this pencil line. Step 5:  Mount the middle rail (if required) If you need a center rail you can mark the top just by balancing a shelf across the existing rails and matching the rail to it.
Measure, level and mark boards, appropriately aligning the future holes with the mortar between bricks. What I learned: Unlike screwing wood to wood, where you can sink the screws into the wood easily without a countersink, when attaching wood to mortar, if you do not provide the countersink hole already and attempt to perform said action, you will strip the mortar and the screw will just spin and stay loose.
Next, re-level shutters and mark the mortar with the masonry drill bit through the pilot holes.
What I learned: I had already applied a sealer to the back of the shutters before attaching them. Having two drills is a life-saver: I had my hammer drill set up with my masonry bit and my cordless drill had my Phillips bit in it ready for the screws.
There are several types of plaster you might run across in homes built in the 1960’s and earlier. It is the easiest to use, and it’s your patriotic duty as a Canadian to support this superior screwing technology.
Wood screws are pointy, and may or may not have threads all the way to the head (usually not).
These look pretty similar to thicker drywall screws except that the are available in Robertson heads. These images posted under: Garage Shelves Plans – Step by Step instructions to Create Your Own Shelves.
This entry was posted on Monday, May 20th, 2013 at 8:04 pmand is filed under Garage Shelves Plans – Step by Step instructions to Create Your Own Shelves. Sometimes we love to combine some stuff into better stuffs where one of the finest examples is the bookcase room dividers. Laundry room organization ideas, We often face with some problems with the small room model decoration. Laundry room Faucets,- Talking about the faucets in the house, we all know usually faucets often become jewelry that adorn sink. One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself).
Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap.
I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall. What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side?
I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams.
The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage. I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind. With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them. If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up.
I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are.
You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time. I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement.
I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be. In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves.
As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards.
Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you! Use the form below to delete this Garage Cabinets Of Idaho The Ultimate Storage System image from our index.
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Use the form below to delete this If Your Garage Is Running Out Of Space Try Building This Overhead image from our index. Use the form below to delete this Garage Organization Systems Saskatoon SK Canada Shelf image from our index. If you would like to build sturdy garage overhead mightyshelves as described in my earlier post here, but don’t have attic space above your garage, one of several alternative hardware support methods is required.
A couple of hardware variations include screwing eye lags up into the framing in your garage ceiling, or fastening a piece of perforated metal angle (similar to what is commonly used for supporting garage overhead door tracks and motors) to the framing in your ceiling with some 3″ Spax lag screws. I recently came up with a hardware method that still allows you to use threaded rod, with a slight variation at the top, that works in cases where you don’t have accessible attic space above. If I was to use perforated angle since I don’t have access, what would you recommend to secure the angle to the ceiling? Yes- I’ve been using Spax screws that are a little more narrow than traditional lag screws. Mightyshelves don’t need to be limited to just garages- I think they could work in many other spaces as well. We actually just used three different parts to create a threaded rod with an eye on the end- a threaded rod, a coupling nut, and an eye bolt. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. They decided to have the washing machine and sink share the long drain pipe (left) and that the shower would drain straight down. I used silicone sealant on the inside of the connector before tightening it all and on the seams afterwards. With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment.
Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves. I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items. If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall. I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall).
For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart. This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design). Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are).
Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall.
Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall. After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly. They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side. I actually don’t recommend this type of shelving for all but the most utilitarian installations. This can be tricky, but if you’re going to use it for books, then you need to find a stud. Take the board down, and on the underside using a square (which is usually triangle shaped) mark the perpendicular right across the board.
The diameter of the drill bit should be slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the screw (The solid part inside the threads.) Attach the bracket to the board.
If you over tighten, you’ll damage the wood underneath, and the screw might pull out. I taped off my house using wide painter’s tape after they were up and it saved me a huge headache of cleaning sealer off my house with mineral spirits. It is taped together with paper tape and a plaster like compound called Drywall Compound (or MUD) to hide the joins. Other than tiny picture hangers and quarter round, you probably shouldn’t be using nails around the home. Often the head has a conical profile allowing the head to be driven into the material and lay flat (or covered with a plug or wood filler.) When joining two pieces of wood together, you want the unthreaded portion of the screw to be about the same length as the thickness of the top piece of wood.
They’re usually green in colour, and are treated to put up with the corrosive nastiness of pressure treated wood.
All image in this gallery hopefully can give you an ideas to improve your home become more beautiful especially on interior design. Although many argue sometimes just look at faucets in terms of functions, so they decided to just use a simple faucet with plastic handles. With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials. My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run. Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ? I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength. These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal.
It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money!
You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion. If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams. Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling.
Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor.
I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end.
For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams. You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams. For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that.
I have got all the materials except lag screws and chains to hang to ceiling as I have no access to attic.
We started by refinishing the hardwood floors and updating our shutters to add some curb appeal. In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed. I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last. I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…). Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud. The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height). I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up. You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength. This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support. Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4.


I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place. It is intended for those people who know that the flat end of the nail is the end you hit with the shoe, and that butter knives make acceptable screwdrivers. BUT, this installation will demonstrate the essential properties of shelviness — The shelf is level, and it is strong enough for most small loads. Sometimesyou can find them by tapping lightly with a small hammer and listening for a spot where the echo turns into a thud (a doctor’s knee tapper would be ideal). Put one of the brackets against the board and the floor and press so the flex is taken out of the bracket, and the screw holes are directly over the line. If you go this route, Laminated MDF is a good choice for the actual shelves as it is pretty stiff. It’s a good idea to measure the spacing at the top and bottom to make sure they are parallel. What I have attempted to show is that we can do a whole lot of quality work while keeping this error prone task to a minimum. This means that the threads will bite into the lower piece, and everything will pull tight together. If these are the only screws you have laying around, then it’s probably safe to use them for interior repairs.
Garage storage shelving plans and all other images, photo or designs in this blog are copyright of their respective owners.
I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them. I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily. Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have.
You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall. Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying.
As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation. Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on? I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf. At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement. This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height. Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks. Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it. The techniques used here are also applicable to hanging curtain rods and small bathroom shelves. This might work if you have drywall and wood studs, but plaster and lathe seems to make the same sound no matter where you tap it.
Mark the stud line on the board and mark the underside of the shelf against the wall (As per Step 3). If the rails are mis-aligned, the shelves will be sloping, which is not one of the properties of shelviness we desire.
The major problem is you still get the brittleness of plaster without the additional support of wood lathe. This will remove the material that you would otherwise have to push aside (with a splitting risk) while still leaving enough material for the threads to grab. If you were to use a drywall screw instead, it is quite likely that the screw will actually end up forcing the pieces apart slightly.
Basically, these are used to join two pieces of metal together, often with washers to allow some motion. We collect from various website and blog to use as home decoration and inspiration for home interior designs. I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal. I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support. Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure. I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in.
Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame.
This will allow me to make use of all that space in the garage that isn’t being used now. While I don’t have all of my kitchen photos ready for you, I wanted to show you what I found while re-plumbing the kitchen. My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet.
My general principle is that you can’t possibly measure and pencil out the installation accurately. Take the shelf down, and repeat 3-7 for the other bracket, and finally drive home the actual screws that will hold it up. The danger is that a partially loaded shelf might flip up like a teeter totter if there is too much overhang. However, if you are hanging a 24 inch shelf on 16 inch studs, that leaves 4 inches of overhang at either side. Usually light loads will be attached with a plastic drywall plug to spread out the downwards force so that your nail or screw doesn’t pull down the wall, opening a crack like a zipper would.
Furthermore, the gypsum came in large sheets, so that the plaster doesn’t flow in behind and lock like it does with wood lathe. People putting up drywall will usually buy a special tip for their drill that takes advantage of the Phillips driver’s tendency to slip out of the screw.
If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s. This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall.
I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items. You might have to move your ideal location over a bit so that the shelf is centered on the studs.
This frees up the other hand for duties like holding onto the work of holding onto dear life as the case may be.
The Phillips screw was designed so that the drive would twist out of the screw head if it got too tight. A hole of appropriate size is drilled through the material, and the bolts are tightened so that the friction between the wood pieces prevent any movement. Alternatively, mark it with pencil in several locations and use the edge of a shelf, or even the rail itself to mark the studs. Put a piece of tape over the plaster before banging in a nail, and you can reduce much of the cracking.
One more thing, I have to spend much more on materials as compared to the material cost breakdown you have: materials are expensive here in canada. There are no straight lines and no 90 degree corners in your house, and every time you pull out a tape, you’re introducing error into the equation. One might be tempted to try and line up the second rail by partially assembling the brackets and temporarily mounting a shelf using the brackets and a shelf. The problem with this technique is that you will be left with a plaster repair and paint touch up when done, but it is reliable. It might be a workable idea when you have 3 pairs of hands, but then communications between those hands becomes an issue. Now, using the level, level the shelf and mark the underside where it meets the other stud line.



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Comments to «Garage shelf plywood»

  1. Hooligan on 01.03.2015 at 12:57:21
    Maximize moisture resistance, or use exposure grade.
  2. 789_22_57 on 01.03.2015 at 11:44:53
    Can in all probability be unfinished wood built-in storage.