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As you can see, the water lines going to and from the water heater as well as the gas line are somewhat in the way, so I have to work around them which makes things a bit awkward. I made the most restrictive assumption, that it means top of arm to bottom of the threaded fitting.
The final question I have is, since this is in a garage, how much of this needs to be insulated? I'm pretty sure it's measured from the center-line of the trap arm pipe to the bottom vented portion of the AAV. Can there be a horizontal run between the sanitary tee where the trap arm connects and the AAV?
No, there shouldn't be any horizontal run until the vent reaches 18" above the flood rim of the sink. In NC you probably don't have many freezing nights, and rarely any really cold nights, so you might be fine. Other Stuff For Sale Place for For Sale and WTB posts for non-Porsche and non-BMW stuff that YOU have. Puzzle A: With reference to scenario #2, once the vertical vent pipe gets cut will I be able to easily move it up and down through the roof flashing? The venting wasn't quite right notice in my drawing attached below that an air path is provided to each trap that does not have water from another fixture running by it. A.) You probably will have some movement but I would plan on having at least on of the connections being a banded coupling like a Fernco Proflex the rubber is thin and can be rolled back over itself allowing the pipe to slide into place.
Schematically, I don't see the difference between my second drawing and the one you provided.
Taking into account the space allowed and physical attributes of the stud wall, would the drawing below provide what you prescribe for proper drainage and venting? With your years of plumbing service, do you have much experience with installing pipes through fire rated walls into the living space?

Do you have any input, suggestions or referrals to other tradesmen in this forum regarding the use of sleeves around plumbing and electrical bundles for fire rated wall penetrations? I see very little of that in service plumbing but the device you are talking about sounds about right for the job.
I mostly tear out gaping hole fix and install pipes then others get to finish off what I tore apart. Try my guys the next time you need plumbing services, had no probs with odor what-have-you. Garage - stacks stacks, Garage storage racks, home storage solutions, plastic bins, crates & more! Sink farm equipment sink farm equipment lexington, nc (336, Welcome sink farm equipment garage, . I'm hoping that you guys could critique this before I glue it together, or if there's something I should have done differently? Cleanout on the horizontal run - not 100% sure it's requried but it certainly can't hurt, right? Therefore, in order to get and exceed the required 4 inches and still leave room to unscrew the AAV, I had to use 2 90 degree elbows connected by a horizontal pipe to get out from under the sink. I could conceivably attach a strap to the horizontal pipe at #7 and secure it to the underside of the sink. Is it only between the trap and the wall, or does everything up to the AAV need to be insulated as well?
In my case this horizontal run would be ~6 inches long, and would be dry unless the drain backs up.
I created two possibilities for the dwv scenario; please provide your thoughts and suggestions.
Is this generally ignored since there is no way to avoid placing the pipe through the stud? Careful planning has gone into this job because something much bigger than a utility sink is getting installed inside the house on the other side of wall; naturally, this leads to more inquiries.

I ask this because directly on the other side of the wall a salt water aquarium is being installed and I want to locate all noise making components inside the garage (pumps, chiller, exhaust fan, etc?). It seems like there is a lot of knowledge and experience here and I'm hoping to be able to learn something from you all. I asked the plumbers who did the water heater to add a valve where I could attach the sink, and they did. I am uncertain however if the 90 degree elbows and horizontal pipe between the Sanitary Tee and the AAV are acceptable. The area is tight and I am considering moving the washing machine standpipe to the next bay on the left since the washer and dryer are also getting moved to the left. The original contractor didn't seem too worried about cutting a 2.5 inch hole in the 2X4 stud to the right. With all the research I've done, I've seen drawings showing both configurations; hence the reason I'm visiting this forum. I've researched through-wall penetrations for 2-hour fire rated assemblies and selected Hilti FS-One intumescent foam for sealing the openings around water and electrical lines.
There is no vent stack that I can use, so I am using an AAV, I called the inspections department of the town I live in and they confirmed that AAVs are accepted where I live (NC). The pictures I can find online of AAV installations don't have any horizontal runs like this but my situation seems to be a bit unusual.
Unfortunately, the bay containing the cleanout and vertical vent pipe doesn't allow enough space for connecting the utility sink drain pipe. Even if I used a sani-tee and came straight out of the wall, the drain pipe would then be at too high an elevation for the utility sink drain.

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