GIVEAWAY ALERT: I’m teaming up with Kreg Jig to give a Kreg Jig K4 Masters System to one lucky Build Basic Subscriber!
To create a thicker top edge when the box is open, apply a bead of wood glue to the installed Rail, and then lay a second Rail against it. Apply glue to the backside of the 1 x 2 Cleat, and then position it in place on the bottom Rail. One by one, adjust the Slats using the lines on the Legs as a guide, and then screw them into place.
Continue attaching the Interior Boards using clamps, wood glue and 1?-inch pocket-hole screws. Place a spacer block between the Cleat and the bottom Slat–this spacing will allow the floor slats to set on the Cleats below the Slats and Divider.


Make sure to keep the top and bottom Rails flush with the face of the Leg, while tilting the 5 slats between them. Place a second Rail against each boards, and then screw it to the Legs using pocket-screws. Now position the end of a 22-inch-long Slat on the Leg, as shown, so that its top edge rests on the crosshair of the two lines, and the bottom edge tilts forward flush with the front edge of the Leg.
Drive pocket-hole screws through the Slats in the unattached panel to secure it to the Divider between them.
Next, drill pocket holes through the thickness of each board so that the screws will run through the Rails and into the ends of the Divider. Lastly, install the bottom Rail against the underside of the lowest Slats and flush with the face of the Legs.


On the Slats where the clamp won’t reach, clamp the Leg to the table and firmly hold the Slat in place while securing.
Apply glue to the end of each Side Board, and then clamp and screw them to the Front Board. I recently just switched from the Kreg Jig R3 to the K4 (check out my video about the K4), but you can use either.
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