UPDATE: Jan 31, 2011 - I sold the radial saw with the HTC 2000 mobile base, but kept the Kreg measuring system. The Stuff Page: Things that ended up tossed but that seem like they have another life ahead of them.
This page originated as a couple of photos to help and encourage someone who’d wanted to replace their radial arm saw table - and seems to have suffered uncontrolled growth since. I chose ACX plywood to have a good top surface and better resistance to the effects of humidity - and the 48-inch width to better support long boards. This closer view shows the mounting screws and leveling set screws on the left side of the table. For anyone not familiar with Propel nuts, here’s a close-up of some I bought from Lee Valley Tools.


In this close up, you can see in detail how the table was counterbored for the mounting screws and washers; and you can see the very top of the Propel nut and the leveling Allen set screw in the smaller hole. After adding wings to extend the table to twelve feet, I used some scrap wood under the lower leg stretcher to level the wings.
When I was all done, I checked my receipts and calculated that my levelers had cost about US$1.75 each for materials. I did (finally) get around to replacing the socket head cap screws with stainless steel button head cap screws, and I like the reduced profile much better. Since I do a fair amount of repetitive cutting on the radial arm saw, I wanted to be able to set up multiple stops.
Here’s a close up of one completed and four not yet complete (flipperless) stops mounted on the track.


I replaced the rusty mounting bolts, washers, and nuts with stainless steel button head cap screws, washers, and anti-vibration nuts.
After sweeping the shims out for the hundredth or so time with the shop vac power cord, I decided that I needed a better way to level the wings. I assembled my "leveler" as above and snapped a photo so you can see how simple the whole thing is.



Examples of garage organization
Woodworking project adirondack chair jig


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