After all the internal parts were milled and mortised, I glued tenons in all the stringer mortises. With the frame square, I marked the skin with a grid showing the position of the internal members to give me guides for nailing. Since this is my last chance to access all the internal areas before skinning the top, I needed to set up a way to attach a replaceable end cap for the router end. Don't let the not-so-sticky feeling fool you, if you accidentally touch the two pieces together getting them apart without tearing up the laminate is nearly impossible. I didn't want to hang the table on the fence rails, at 75 pounds I was afraid it would deflect or twist them. One amusing bit was the convoluted gizmo I stuck in for some temporary dust collection while routing the recess. In the photos, you can see how my Incra tablesaw fence flips around to act as a router fence. Speaking of airflow, I may have to make some arbitrary openings or some kind of adjustable port in the router box to increase airflow. At this point, I kinda lost track of documenting the final stages of the build, partially because of the constantly changing ideas on how to implement thedustcollection. At one point, I really got tired of swapping the Incra fence between the table saw and the router.
I seen a couple saws out there set up this way, and with space being such a commodity, I finally convinced myself it needed to be done. DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. This page is sort of a diary of how I built this custom extension and router table for my SawStop. I used two simple jigs, one to mortise the small cross-ribs and one to do the main stringers.
I found a few glue squeeze-outs that were preventing the ribs from seating fully, a quick touchup with a chisel fixed that! I don't want to be running into a sharp laminate edge all the time, so I'm planning to use hardwood. I chose this granite pattern because I figure it'll hide the inevitable scratches and dings better.

It can be tough aligning the laminate while holding off the substrate, so use wooden stickers to hold the laminate up while you position them. Instead, I used some scrap aluminum bar stock I had around to make two angle brackets and bolted them to the edge of the tablesaw top. After several (failed) attempts to make a template for routing out the plate recess, I realized I was wasting hours instead of just spending $25 for an MDF template.
Surprisingly, even with a large gap and a wide-open top, it still captured almost all the dust! Although I have the Incra WonderFence attached here, you could also make your own sacrificial faces, guides, etc and attach them to the basic fence.
I finally settled on putting it in the center of the back and integrating a modified version of my shop-made blast gates. The pull from the cyclone is tremendous, to the point that I can't pull the door open if the cyclone is running. I thought of installing a second Incra system just for the router, but there just wasn't room. It'll also incorporate a table-mounted router on the other end, allowing me to flip my Incra fence around and attach the WonderFence for routing. The near-side has two 2x4s screwed together and milled straight to act a caul for clamping.
I could have used another plywood rib, but that would have blocked access to the router somewhat. The front of the cutout is blocked off by a piece of plywood, I cut it out extra large and the box is attached using cleats and screws to allow future changes if need for a different router.
Then start in the middle, removing the sticker and pressing down the laminate with a J-roller. Just as effective as the old stuff, but it doesn't have that awful smell and emits very little VOCs, so you can use it without a mask.
One problem that I found and I had feared was the table became non-flat at the router opening, where there's no interior ribs. I'm using a Pinnacle plate, but it's a standard size so I picked up a MasterPlate template from Woodcraft. When routing a dado, the board can be sucked down so hard that it becomes impossible to move.

The Triton switch is so clumsy, though, that I couldn't stand the thought of having to fight with it on every bit change.
After these photos were taken, I had to reverse the angle in the other direction to ensure clearance for the router base. Now I need to decide exactly how the ductwork will connect, I'm not sure if it'll be the back or side. The smell still gets a little strong when doing large areas like the table top, but nothing like the old yellow stuff. Since there's no way to avoid the bolt head protruding from the side, I used a forstner bit cut small recesses in the end of the table for them. I wanted to securely clamp the template to the table but it's rather small, so I screwed it to a larger piece of MDF and routed out the hole. After taking these photos, however, I decided to go with a short section of flex duct to connect to the main duct instead of hard fittings.
I've had to resort to blocking the front access door open an inch or two to alleviate some of the suction, I'll have to find a more elegant way to do this in the future. Since I knew I'd be putting the tenons back-to-back in the interior stringers, leaving the tenons more exposed than normal, I cut the tenons extra-deep. First, coat the laminate and the substrate with contact cement according to the manufacturers directions. Space is rather tight lengthwise under the table and using flex instead of elbows makes for a more compact setup with little loss of airflow. As you can see, I used a standard shop vac hose to connect the box to the Incra fence's dust port.
Originally the wires exited from the bottom, but it was pretty simple to disassemble the switch box and reroute the wires out the back and into the router box. This hose also comes off the fence easily for a convenient way to suck up stray bits that manage to escape during routing. The extension and table are almost perfectly flush, except where the SawStop falls off a few thousands at the front and back edge.

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