You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Our variable-speed scroll saw does a beautiful job cutting highly intricate curves and designs quickly and precisely.
This article will help you learn about scroll saw features and what you need to know in purchasing a scroll saw. If you already know which scroll saw you are interested in, I have found the best prices are consistently at Amazon and in almost all cases, include free shipping and no sales tax.
Scroll saws come in two basic sizes, 16 inch and 20 inch.  This measurement refers to the distance between the back of the blade to the back of the saw arm. A 16 inch saw is adequate to cut most projects and most sawyers never need a bigger saw.  However, when you move up to a 20 inch saw, the overall quality, number of features and ultimately the ease and quality of cut improve dramatically.
In addition to saw location and height, will you sit or stand?  For anyone who has cut while standing knows that you will pay for it the next day with a sore neck and back.  A chair or stool with wheels and adjustable height would be ideal. Regardless of how you choose to mount the saw, make sure you have enough room so your legs can wrap around the saw to have enough control to cut from various positions. Here is a really nice video on cutting inlays and marquetry.  It’s a little long but really shows some of the things you can do with a scroll saw. I hope these scroll saw reviews have been helpful.  I have tried to cover some basics on this post.


Here is a Jig Saw-useful for cutting a huge piece of wood, maybe a sheet of plywood or something you can't fit on a saw table. Here are what pinned blades look like-with tiny metal dowels in both ends to keep the blade in place. The first saw I owned was nothing other than a handy dandy Craftsman 14" Scroll saw purchased for $109 in 2002. It is simply the measured inches between the blade and the back of the machine, or in other words, the number of inches you can saw a straight line before you hit the back of the machine with your wood and can't cut any more. One more thing ***VERY IMPoRTANT***when picking a machine-Please make sure it has a heavy cast iron table. Make sure your fingers are nowhere near your cut lines and be aware of where they really are on your project. So, when I am starting a project, I usually cut a pattern out of cardstock, but you can use transfer paper {also known as carbon paper} and trace your design onto the wood or whatever you are using.
If you look at the red line and arrows on the bigger picture above you will see what direction I cut.
Now, 1-release the tension, 2-loosen the top portion of the blade {you might have to loosen the whole blade if your machine requires is, but this one is ok with just one end loosed}. This inside-hole business is a real pain, but my project wouldn't be nearly as cute without all those pieces cut out.


Several manufacturers create these saws, and choosing the best one for a person s needs is not always an easy process.
My general observation is that you do not want the MOST cheep tool, but the low end on scroll saws worked fabulously for me. A built-in air pump keeps your line of sight clear of sawdust to help you make detailed scrolling cuts. This scroll saw has a cast iron base for less vibration and variable speed control for working with a wide range of materials. I would love to have some of the more expensive saws,but this one works great and I am happy with the dough I saved.
The blade was up against the plastic to the point that if I had turned it on it would have cut the plastic! If you are going to be using it everyday for hours on end, consider spending more money and get a different saw.



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