I designed my sled so I can replace the MDL sled table once too much of it has been sacrificed to cutting and dadoing. International Shipping - items may be subject to customs processing depending on the item's declared value.
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By clicking Confirm, you are committing to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder and have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. I have used a rear mounted fence sled for years, but I never liked using the larger ones to much hanging off the front of the saw when trying to start the cut, for that reason I always make mine for a little over a 12" crosscut. RobPorcaro writes: Having used this sled for many different size crosscuts without a hold-down, I have not found any problems with the work pieces shifting.
I feel the right side platform is necessary and safer for crosscutting off all but the tiniest trimmings, and I do indeed use this sled for sizable cutoffs. I generally control the front of the sled with my left hand with my right hand on the work piece, well away from the blade, as I make the cut. SARGEgrinder47 writes: I built one yesterday as I noted I would waiting for a glue-up to dry. Get to know the woodworkers who make Fine Woodworking's online community the liveliest woodworking forum on the Web.
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In my next table I may design and build a replaceable cut path insert much like a tablesaw uses. Contact the seller- opens in a new window or tab and request a shipping method to your location.

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Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. With this front-fence design, it is easy and natural to maintain firm registration of the work piece which is pushed forward against the fence as the sled is fed forward into the blade.
However, I understand how this could be a concern, and the addition of toggle clamps sounds helpful. Each woodworker has to decide what is a safe and practical limit for stock width using this type of sled, and whether the fence needs added stabilizing features. Pushing work through the blade with a rear fence tends to keep the wood tighter to the fence.
If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. With rear-fence crosscut sleds or a with a miter gauge, the workpiece must be pushed back against the fence as the sled or gauge is pushed forward.
The left-side platform will carry the workpiece while the stationary right-side platform is situated to prevent the cutoff from dropping. This allows the fence to be squared unhurriedly, tested, and fine tuned as necessary after the initial cutoff. Second, a sled with a rear fence is, IMHO, easier to push through the blade and the rear fence can function as a backer board to minimize tearout.
The platform on the right is supposed to keep the workpiece from dropping and that may be useful, but it just gets in the way.
If someone is concerned as Jake about reaching forward the matter can be resolved simply by using a tall riving knive on your saw or a tall splitter..
I added a quik clamp to snug stock against the fence, but the quik clamp can easily be removed when I do not need it.
The front of any size work piece and most of the mass of the sled start close to the blade and are as well supported as possible by the saw table before the cut is started. It is best to use a "spreading style" quik clamp so you can take the head off and remove it from the sled.
The slabs start with a bit of excess width so they can be trimmed by crosscutting after the runners are in place. The best use for a sled like this is to trim the right side of a sheet for accuracy (ie exactly 90 degrees and precisely at the planned cut line.) Usually cutting off just an inch, more or less.

While the latter have their advantages, I find this jig gets most of my jobs done very well. As for the issue of the outfeed platform moving, I left the runner a little on the tight side so it doesn’t move while in use, I also drilled a hole in it while I was drilling holes in the sled to hang it up while not in use.
This allows a 22" cross-cut with palm handle and can be removed easily on the rare occasion I go over.
I witnessed a horrific accident because the user had a sled with no blade guard on the exit path of the blade. The sled back fence alignment is the hardest part, but I found out that it's better to attach it with screws. The broad flat area of the fence allows for many angle adjustments to be made by simply redrilling the screw holes. I used brass nut inserts for every bolt. You can see that I used UHMW stock for the miter slot rails. Please note that you must drill and counter sink for the screws in the UHMW, and do not drive the screws from the sled top into the UHMW. I did this and found that when screws are driven into the UHMW that this plastic "swells" and made the rails jam in the saw table slots. Both Rockler and Woodcraft have the UHMW material.   Pic 4I thought I was being clever when I fitted a LED light into a pocket to give me light on the blade and cut path. Dopey me, it does not help when setting up a cut as the blade first contacts the wood on the FAR side of the light source!
I secure the fence face with double stick tape so I can easily remove it and re-surface it in my planner after it gets banged up too much. All sleds I have ever seen tend to ignore the back fence as the sled builders regard this feature as there only to hold the sled halves together. I however noticed that it was important to have a stout back fence to help prevent warping and keep the sled square.

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