Wood WorkTotal Shop Woodworking Machine - How To build DIY Woodworking Blueprints PDF Download. Total Shop Woodworking Machine - Step By Step DIY Woodworking Blueprints PDF Download How To Build a Total Shop Woodworking Machine with Quality Plans.Total Shop Woodworking Machine Total Shop Woodworking Machine More or less of the brands including gist shop to overcome FOW Woodcraft and others. When you’re thinking about your dust collection design, you probably have some images in your head of what other shops have.  But your shop is unique, and your optimal duct layout will be unique as well. The first thing I thought about was where I’d be putting this dust collector thing.  Next I thought about where the air-hungry tools are, and let that be the starting point for the duct routing. Assuming you are designing a more permanent system with ductwork, you’ll probably want to have “main ducts” that originate from the collector.  From there you’ll have branches that pick up the various tools and stations. Now where should you locate these mains?  There are several options, which will vary depending on your shop’s construction. Overhead and along the walls, which is what I went with to keep ductwork out of the way in case I want to maneuver long boards.  I have branch ducts in the middle of the ceiling but the mains are primarily along two walls. Overhead either diagonal across the shop or in the middle of the ceiling, which will help keep the overall duct run from any one machine minimized, if you only have one main duct.  Just be aware that you now have more stuff over your head that can get dented from carrying stock around the shop. In my one-car garage workshop, I just had a Table Saw and Router Table to pick up, so I ran the main over the doorway and then down low along the wall.
In my Ladera Ranch 1-car garage shop, I started out with no dust collection; an open door was it.
When I did finally buy the Jet DC-1100 (which I still have today, and works just great), I knew nothing about how to set up a system other than the engineering HVAC know-how I had.  Since it was such a small shop with just a table saw, router table, drill press, a bunch of hand tools and hand-held power tools, I just had to hook up two stations to the collector.
Both stations were against the long wall to give me the most open maneuvering space possible.  It just made sense to route the main duct low along the wall and flex hose directly to each machine’s port.
Now that I have tools located more in the middle of my 3-car garage shop (in clusters for workflow purposes), I have to think a bit differently about what duct routing makes sense.  This requires a balance between the shortest runs possible to each tool and not having too much overhead ductwork getting in the way of carrying long boards around. Branch duct configuration is heavily influenced by the main duct location and configuration, so it’s wise to think of both branches and mains at the same time. The last thing I want in a carefully planned shop layout is a bunch of ducts to jump over all the time, and this includes the flex hose portion that connects to the tool. As mentioned above, tools along the wall generally aren’t a problem, because the branch duct and flex hose is behind the tool and you never step back there.  However, vertical duct drops along a wall can sometimes interfere with wall storage.  So, maybe design it so that the ducts go between storage cabinets like it’s on purpose!
Literally play-act the operations at each station and see where the “no go” zones are for flex hose.  I didn’t do this with my table saw and now cross-cutting a 6 ft. I also tweaked the duct branch location to accommodate the power cord to run up the flex hose as well, so I minimized how many things are in my way vertically.  That’s why I have so many overhead outlets. Once you’ve thought about the branch duct configuration for each tool, think next about where each blastgate should go, and where the flex duct should begin from the branch. The blastgate goes at the end of your sheet metal duct drop, and you connect your flex to that.

Flexible dust hose is inherently bad for airflow, because of the ridges on the inside surface.  Their static pressure loss (resistance to airflow) per ft. A lot of woodworkers ignore the connection to the dust collector itself.  There are two things to consider when your “main” duct connects to the impeller port.
I changed the inlet configuration to my dust collector after calculating the losses of having an elbow right at the inlet.
Another thing you can add to your system is add some cleanout hatches (access doors) on your horizontal runs.  Just make sure you buy good ones with a nice seal all around.
Alright, once the overall layout starts to take shape in your mind and on paper, you’re ready to start calculating airflows and sizing duct.  This will also help you choose your dust collector if you are about to buy one. Connect with me on Facebook, and follow me on Twitter for more ninja tips to Optimize Your Woodshop! And, if you’re on Twitter, be sure to follow #woodchat every Wednesday night, at 6:00 pm, PST.
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Also, you’ll get weekly WoodChip Tips, design ideas, free useful downloads, free mini-courses, and other cool stuff in The Other Side of Zero newsletter! May I simply say what a relief to find someone who genuinely understands what they’re discussing on the net. Your articles and website have been extremely helpful in guiding me to set up my woodworking shop in my basement. How I went from a cluttered and disorganized shop to a super-productive layout with a convenient dust collection and electrical set-up. When purchasing a caddie be sure to get the one for your particular bobbins as they are made to fit only the specified sizes. Fred's Sewing Machine Bobbin Caddies are made of Red Oak or Pennsylvania Black Cherry and now, Black Walnut, your choice. Each caddie is fitted with its own screw-on top that will safely contain the bobbins in the caddie while traveling. IF YOU ARE ORDERING FROM OUTSIDE THE CONTIGUOUS UNITED STATES, PLEASE CONTACT ME ABOUT SHIPPING PRIOR TO ORDERING!! Val recommends that you put all of one kind of bobbin in a tube so you can easily find a color or thread type. If the thread ends dangle from the caddie after putting the bobbins back, simply cut off the extra using a sharp pair of scissors.
Enjoy the caddie and let me know if you have other ideas of wood-related items for quilters that I can make.
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I’m in the process of recalculating this and may switch some of the branches to 5” to reduce static pressure as long as I maintain my 4,000 feet per minute velocity. I put a piece of flex on this riser so that I can move the dust collector around a bit when changing the bag. Plus, it’s not getting close enough to the recommended CFM because of the higher static pressure the smaller diameter flex hose has. This principle of straight duct of around 6 duct diameters applies to both the inlet and the outlet. The advantage of my bobbin caddie system is that once the bobbins are in the caddie and the lid is attached, there will be no spillage!
I personally think that you should mix them up so you can spend more time looking at the caddie (but then, I'm a guy)! It is very convenient to have all of the colors of thread visible and simply pull what is needed from the bobbin and snip it off for threading your sewing needle. Keister anyone severalize Pine Tree State just about motorcar angstrom unit wood unit called total seems the selfsame Shopsmith. Recently, I’ve begun to change these out to the “bridging” type of hose clamp, because they “hug” the ridges and you get a better seal.
In general, they are a bit over 3 inches in diameter and about 5 inches tall (with the lid in place). Make sure you face the blastgate the right way; the screw that locks the gate presses upwards here, which is the same direction as the airflow. Plus, the static pressure losses were too much to get the CFM I want; by upsizing both this flex and the branch I hope to get more than 50% additional airflow. However, be aware that leftover chips in your ductwork is a symptom low airflow, probably due to excessive static pressure that your collector can’t overcome. Ricky Tims asked me to make the Hybrid version that would incorporate both B and L bobbins in one caddie. The flex here is probably a bit long; in order to reduce static pressure, besides upsizing it to 5”, I may shorten it so that I can still move the jointer around but minimize the high losses of flex duct. Some bobbins vary in thickness so the numbers that I give above may vary slightly with the type of bobbin you use. Don’t have your main duct go all the way around your shop perimeter in one continuous path; the last few machines it picks up will not be getting enough air because of the excessive static pressure. If you need more (or fewer) bobbins in the tubes, let me know and I can make yours taller or shorter to accommodate more or fewer bobbins.

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