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Before you assemble the frames and panels that make up the sides of the table, you have some decisions to make. With the four sides glued up and clamped, run a bead of glue along the entire bottom edge of all four bottom rails. While the carcass is drying, make the flippable lid that will function as both the tabletop and the cushion holder. By this time, the glue holding the frame on the top of the carcass should be dry, so you can put some trim under the edge of the frame to ease the visual transition between the top frame and the carcass.
Regardless of what size your drawer ends up being, what is important is that it is installed so that the front of your drawer box is even with the back side of the stiles and rails. Mount your drawer front to your drawer box by positioning it perfectly in the opening using small spacers around the outside. As much as I like hard maple, it’s not the most visually interesting wood in the world, so I decided to go with a medium-brown stain. Insert your top so it rests on the cleats and that’s it: a great-looking table, extra seating and new storage all in one. STORAGE BENCHThis white wooden hallway bench with a natural aged wood edging to the top surface offers superb hallway storage.A solid piece of furniture ready for sitting on with useful slatted wooden baskets for shoes, umbrellas, bags or whatever you wish and just as you have walked through the door. See current Storage Shed, Sheds Plans, Storage Sheds, Storage Wood Sheds, Sheds Massachusetts.
I began by milling my lumber for the stiles and rails for the main carcass’s frame-and-panel sides. Select the best upper and lower rail, the two best wide stiles and the best panel, then set them aside. Next, bring the first three frames and panels and the front frame together, upside down, on your bench or the floor.


As before, cut these pieces slightly long and sneak up on the final measurement to get a perfect fit. Drive four 1″-long pan-head screws from the inside, through the drawer box and into the raised panel.
Now, maple is famous for going blotchy when stained, so if you want a nice, even finish, make sure you use a pre-stain conditioner before applying your colour.
If your table’s sides don’t line up exactly with the outside edges of the base, loosen the clamps and shift the carcass. As with carcass frames, you could also use biscuits or pocket-hole screws (driven in through the bottom surfaces only).
Start by cutting your plywood just a hair too long in every direction, then trim it until you have a perfect fit between the plywood and your lid frame.
Like the bevels, this arrangement adds visual interest and helps hide the gap we need to leave. Once you are satisfied with your fit, attach the base trim flush with the bottom face of the base using glue. I really wanted an old, antique look for this table, so I skipped the conditioner step and applied the stain directly. If the measurements from each set of corners are exactly the same (41″), you know that your base is square.
Once the base and carcass mate flawlessly, the assembly is square and you can drive a few brads or countersunk screws through the plywood and into the rails to lock everything together while the glue dries. Once this frame is built, attach it to the table using a bead of glue along the top edges of the carcass frame.
If you are cutting your plywood on the tablesaw, cut it with the best face up so any tearout will be on the face that the cushion will cover later. The result is a table front that looks exactly like the panels around the rest of the table, until you give it a pull.


For the protective topcoat, I sent the piece out to a shop with a spray booth to apply a satin-sheen clear lacquer. This process cuts a stepped ridge into your bevel cut, allowing the panel to seat properly into the stiles and rails. Check to make sure the spacing is even all around, then clamp and allow the assembly to dry.
The finished length must be exactly 27″, so cut the pieces slightly longer and sneak up on the correct measurement with multiple cuts. Directly under this trim, I applied a rope-motif trim bought from a home-improvement centre.
The sides are glued and dowelled together, and then installed according to the directions included with the slide assembly.
If you want to get creative, you could use hardware that would make this a secret push-to-open drawer and omit the pulls completely. The whole thing sits in the lid frame, where it is held by a heavy bead of hot glue applied to the plywood lid before insertion. I cut this trim to fit and secured it with yet more glue and a few brads driven in between the “strands” of the rope, so the nails wouldn’t be seen.
Because spacing requirements vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and even from model to model, build your drawer once you have the instruction sheet for the metal slides.
These bevels add visual interest to the top, help to camouflage the required gap around the edge and, on the cushion side, lessen the chances of getting slivers.



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